M20F

NEXRAD is strategic and will help you plan. Onboard radar is tactical and will help you pick through.

Glad you got it down. I would advise against running it on the ground and trying to diagnose it and get it to a mechanic to look at.

And take the engine off and put it back on.

I have that issue at my home base it is even more interesting when you get a good cross wind going.

Hi on the fire wall there is the box with the flapper for the heat to go in the cabin. On the top of that box is a hole for the heat to go out through a piece of scat tubing and exit out the cowl when the heater is closed in the cabin. Anyone know the size of that scat tube?

I would add make sure you like the chart function on the GPS. I have flown with Jepp charts on an Avidyne 9 in a Cirrus and really just didn't like it much. I prefer the iPad. Nothing against anyone who likes it but make sure you are part of that club before you spend the $$$.

I had my house damaged by hail and they pro-rated the shingle life in the pay out. With airplanes they do the same thing for certain things. It seems like you are getting a good deal. I would focus on making sure the airframe and controls get fixed right and then just so a scuff and touch up on the paint and take the left over $$$ for whatever. They generally send you the money so you have $30K to play with however you want.

I read it as occurring in 1986, my bad.

Speaking strictly for the engine/prop and the strike itself. If it happened 29yrs ago and it hasn't caused the engine to fly apart yet, I wouldn't worry too much about it. Did you tell your mechanic the date when you asked the question about the strike? My bigger concern would be the engine has gone at least 29yrs without the case being split which is a long time.

J bar envy :-)

Anywhere from the cost of 2 flip/flop nav com's to whatever a G1000 costs installed. I think it is worth a call to the broker to see what they say and go from there. If they are open to negotiating than all the other factors come into play in determining the right price. If they are a firm $55 well than probably doesn't matter.

So I can say my F can carry more hats than your J :-)

And your useful load is what :-)

Previous owner http://napavalleyregister.com/obituaries/norman-gene-alumbaugh/article_3e32234d-8f7f-5191-a4b3-77fdfc78b702.html If you look at registration the broker has owned awhile and I would guess would like to get rid of it (money costs money), given the obituary they probably got it cheap. It would see from just a little Internet research the previous owner took pretty good care of it. Discount a bit for sitting and get a good PPI (LASAR seems ideal) and go for it. I look all the time at what is out there and this is the 2-3 vintage with a Rayjay that I have seen out there since buying mine so if the turbo is desired it is really worth looking at. From my perspective 67 was the best year on the F (flush rivets + manual gear and flaps) and the Rayjay is a very nice bonus. I am a bit biased though.

I have some of these as well which are great for glare but they don't block heat as well as the shades do. To the OP both fold up/roll up to where you can fit about 36362647473 of them in your side pockets. Given the price just order a couple and play around with what works.

Where do you keep your hats then?

Much more realistic than my 67 POH. 7500ft in 1967 POH at 22/26 you get 181mph at 2740# 7500ft in 1975 POH at 22/26 you get 169mph at 2740# I get 168mph at 7000ft at 100ROP at 22/26 in my 67 (+ speed SWTA cowl / - speed Rayjay) on a 20hr engine so would say the 75 numbers are pretty spot on.

I find one or two of these to be very useful. http://www.sportys.com/pilotshop/cockpit-tools/other/suction-cup-collapsible-sun-shade.html Moveable and doesn't fully block vision like a curtain would.

Hat rack?

Small bit of info that has worked for me especially as you are traveling solo for awhile. Fasten the co-pilot seat belt and always check the floor for junk (including your seat belt). There is nothing worse than swinging the gear and wondering why it won't lock and see a seatbelt strap underneath the bar (usually in my case the co-pilot belt which I forgot to refasten after the last passenger).

Safe is safe. A safe pilot is one that analyzes risk and plans accordingly like N601RX indicates. I must be in the minority here but every so often things don't work out exactly how I planned even on a perfect zero wind day. On a 10,000ft nice wide runway I can float, bounce, etc and get it onto the ground without much worry. With 2500' if it isn't right you need to be prepared to go around and having a good fixed point for that is a safe thing to do. To the OP I would also check out the runway condition at the strip you are considering. If it has some dips and rolls (i.e. not the best condition) it is a rodeo coming in/out and on landing you will hop a bit before you can brake more than likely which is going to change things around.

I do recall reading somewhere that it was an option not standard. No idea if that is the truth or just hanger talk.

My 67F is zinc chromated.

DPE's can do initial and addon CFI's.

This is the key because getting out of a short strip in a Mooney is a lot easier than getting in especially when it is gusty and you are carrying a bit more IAS.