LANCECASPER

Precise Flight is the only one that can "overhaul" them.

Pages 2-10 and 2-11 of your M20M POH show what's required for VFR Day, VFR Night, IFR Day and IFR Night. There's no mention of Speed Brakes anywhere there. They make a plate (or anyone good with sheet metal could make one) which goes over the hole on the top of the wing if you need to fly the airplane without them.

You still need a starter if you have electronic ignition.

With the weight you removed in your panel upgrade, etc toward the front of the airplane, I wonder if at least one of those could be removed.

The previous thread on this crash disappeared, I'm assuming since the conversation went completely awry. I'm posting this so we have a place to put the preliminary and final reports when they become available. When we get more details hopefully we can all learn something from it without trashing the pilot in the meantime. On any of these accidents/incidents unless we were there we don't know all of the details. While fuel exhaustion is one of the most preventable accidents, there may have been other contributing factors. Let's keep it civil. https://aviation-safety.net/wikibase/365007 They have it listed as a 231, it's actually a 252. https://www.flightaware.com/live/flight/N38RK https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LBDYJ9DpQaI The last time it was for sale: https://www.aircraft.com/aircraft/200844141/n38rk-1986-mooney-m20k-252tse

With the exposure that Controller has, if an airplane has been listed 60 days and hasn’t sold, the price needs to be adjusted, and then if it hasn’t sold in another 60 days it should be adjusted, etc. Airplanes that are priced right currently, go under contract within 30 days. In a very hot market like in 2021-mid 2023, if it had been listed 30 days and hadn’t sold, the price needs to be adjusted, and then if it hadn’t sold in another 30 days it should be adjusted, etc. Airplanes that were priced right in that market went under contract within 2 weeks.

Those are most likely not just brass bushings, they are Oilite, which are brass bushings impregnated with oil. The oil needs to be replenished eventually (or the bushings can be replaced). I wouldn’t use any other lubrication than what they recommend. https://shop.hpceurope.com/docTech/an/TechCoussinetOILITE.pdf

Interesting article about the Britain: https://web.archive.org/web/20170810090600/http://www.brittainautopilots.com/mooney-pc-systems.html

Exactly, which is no different than 127 Cessna 182s for sale on Controller. People can ask whatever they want but it’s only when a buyer who is willing to pay what seller is willing to sell something for, that a sale takes place.

The difference is in how long and how fast it will crank, attempting a hot start on a Bravo, without damage to the starter or the ring gear. The Bravo, more than any other Mooney I’ve owned, even if the timing is right, needs to crank fast and awhile after being parked an hour after a shutdown in a Texas summer. It also makes you thankful for two batteries just in case. Having had three of them, it makes a lot of sense to me logically since I replaced the smaller cheaper ones and never had the EC model fail on me. Also I had one of the smaller ones kick back and chip one of the 149 teeth on the ring, which was expensive.

It’s probably that VRef dropped AOPA. I never understood why VRef would want to give it away and lose the perceived value of their data.

My experience with SkyTecs over the years is that you’re OK if you over-buy, meaning buy one that is suited for much heavier duty than what they say you need. Example on a Bravo don’t buy the 149NL, but the 149-NL/EC (Extended Crank). The cheaper ones I was told to use were junk and replaced after a year or two. On a Continental I used to say don’t buy the ST3 buy the ST5, but now I say don’t buy a SkyTec, buy the heavier Energizer starter and be kind to your starter adpater.

And I would tell them, “It’s for my recreation vehicle”.

I used to belong to the paid version and they would e-mail every 90 days and ask for sales details from the previous quarter.

Call Allied mentioned in the above post and ask for Bobbie Eldredge.

Go to Vref.com and for AOPA members they will send you a link to reset your password and you’ll have access.

Is this picture from the perspective of the head that was just chopped off?

Not that I'm a huge fan of re-weighing an airplane and losing useful load with the stroke of a pen, but I would be surprised if the scales confirmed 1119. On my Encore that I had (before adding TKS) after the gross weight increase, and the JPI monitor I was at 982. The fiberglass interior adds a few pounds and of course this included an engine driven vacuum pump and a back-up. Removing the vacuum system may have brought me closer to 1000. I don't see where removing the King Package and replacing it would have got me more than 30 or 40, but maybe. I didn't have LR tanks like you do, which I would have liked.

I live on an airpark and we also have that sometimes. One thing would be to have everyone that taxis, takes-off and lands turn on the runway lights a few minutes ahead of time to let everyone know that there's an airplane getting ready to take-off or land.

You might see if Bevan @Jake@BevanAviation can repair that rather than sending it for a complete overhaul to Garmin

Is Virginia a state that requires that businesses have Workers Comp? If not can they exclude you and just make sure you have disability coverage? Are you open to being an Independent Contractor? I flew my own airplane for a few years for a client visiting some of their customers as an Independent Contractor.

Since you're going to have to paint it anyway, any baggage door from a long body should fit: M20L, M20M, M20R, M20S or M20TN. I would give these guys a call - they are great to deal with. https://baspartsales.com/ Also you might "save" a search on Ebay where it will e-mail you any new items in that search every day. There's one from an Ovation 2 on there now that may have less damage than yours and may be more easily repairable. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p4432023.m570.l1313&_nkw=mooney+baggage+door&_sacat=0

I would never consider doing a pre-buy evaluation until I had thoroughly combed through the logs. If this is your first airplane pay someone a few hours of their time to go over the logs compared with the FAA records, ADs, Service Bulletins, etc. People who have looked at many logs will pick up on things that an enthusiastic potential buyer will miss completely or justify. What's in the logs sometimes isn't nearly important as what isn't in the logs. You'll also see trends - such as the same person doing a minimal annual after just a few hours year in and year out. When you get to see it in person you can get a good idea if recent annuals have actually been done or if they were logbook annuals. If it has had meticulous maintenance that's worth paying a premium for, even though there will still be some things you have to catch up on in the first year or two. If it has had minimal maintenance it can very well be a money pit and turn into a project instead of a flying airplane. If the logs pass the smell test and you go to see it and have a pre-buy, while your mechanic is looking for showstoppers, just evaluate how much pride of ownership there was, how they cared for it. I never get in the mechanic's way, but I'm there so he can point out things as he sees them. If the exterior and interior are ratty you can be reasonably sure that pro-active maintenance was unlikely. There are exceptions to that, but very few. People who cut corners usually do it across the board. The nicest airplanes sell fast and for a premium for good reason - they will be the least expensive to own in the long run.

My bet is wiring is incorrect. I've had two of the LHS in two different airplanes and they both worked fine.

It really depends on the application. The IO-360 would do fine with the one you have, rebuilt. Personally I'd send it to Aero Accessories in Van Nuys and have them do it. I'd always had better results with mine rebuilt than an overhaul exchange. If this was a TIO-540 in a Bravo I'd say go for the 149-NL/EC since it will help a lot with hot starts.