LANCECASPER

I never let a passenger touch the door latch since they'll try to slam it every time. That's my job and part of my pre-flight since I'm the one with the license. This placard is on my door: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/warningonlythepilotplacard.php?clickkey=6452

https://www.weepnomorellc.com/

SOLD

You might put what help you need in the title so later when someone is searching for the same thing you are they will have a better chance of finding it.

I understand your analogy, with the exception that there is no greater emergency than a cabin fire. Since these batteries are portable the chances of them being dropped at some point in their life is a lot greater than zero. If the battery belongs to a passenger the danger goes up exponentially since they may not understand the potential for disaster and may not let you know that they dropped it at the last stop. Their "need" to watch a movie on the flight might outweigh the need to confess.

I would have thought any unpressurized mags on early 231s would have been changed out by now. That engine needs pressurized mags.

I don't think that was mentioned in this thread:

I agree and do not carry a battery pack any more in a small airplane, especially since this Mooney burned up after a battery pack caught on fire after being dropped. Thank goodness it happened on the ground and not in the air. https://asn.flightsafety.org/wikibase/386971

Not really, for sure. That's a little like demanding that I tell you exactly what the weather will be tomorrow morning at 8:00 a.m. local time. I can give you a good probability, but there are too many variables to know for sure. How would someone know for sure, with absolute certainty, that what is in their individual airplane would work with the device unless they actually try it? Is your M20M an early serial number that had a 24v lighter socket or a later one that had it stepped down to 12v? Or has it been modified since it was built to another standard? Does your breaker still perform at the rated amperage or maybe not still after all of those years? Does heat play a factor, depending on where you place the Starlink, on how much amperage it will take, or does it "throttle down" if it gets too hot? And more variables I'm sure than what I can think of. The device I mentioned has worked for others, but since it is sold by Amazon you can see if it works for you and if it doesn't, return it. That is the only way to know for sure, just like checking the weather tomorrow at 8:00 a.m. is the only way for sure to know what it will be.

You won't know for sure until you try it, but the people over on Beechtalk use these and have success with them: https://www.amazon.com/Starlink-Cigarette-Dissipation-Waterproof-Protections/dp/B0DMNPGRZN/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=2M89JT7R8C1RQ&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.4FFoQB6iP0a2VqCcJVbDTtVbry2BNhi5wnBRZ_xLqgJU9dw2PvUc1lwi1LSKI9c1OpsZqCAs5W0gU4caB_SxdB2ZwdEBBibNgdaTbMPLwI-QjmMNFSY1ekqt5UxJS9XoXukn0ACD1kCWTeGBMKA3JgB8wsmkPle32kYwCIuIwsnJ5Auo2ZrC73menScqOYkGz444kfFbF4upjp3VofZmF-mFBwr4-u6KMDKxcoTW6aM.1hxfH60mruFMLFWUC2C8qRxXvJq467LwRao_xQrEhfQ&dib_tag=se&keywords=starlink%2Bcigarette%2Blighter%2Badapter&qid=1758458470&sprefix=STARLINK%2BCIG%2Caps%2C363&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

Yet another good reason to be a paid supporter . . lol

While running your TIT at 1644 is under the POH max, running that TIT temperature you will go through cylinders and exhaust systems on the Bravo engine. Normally we all think of the POH as the final authority but if you take into account all of the experience that Bravo owners on this forum have, in 36 years now since the M20M was introduced, the recommended setting for longevity on this engine is a max combined number of 53 (MP + RPM; Example 29MP + 2400RPM). Also keeping the TIT below 1600 will prolong the exhaust valves, exhaust system and TIT probes. The POH was never revised from the original and it says 1750 max, but that's when in the early life of the M20M people were going through a set of cylinders every 200-300 hours. The early M20M owners fought the battle and eventually Lycoming devleoped the wet-head (Bravo) engine, which helped. However still even with the Bravo (wet-head) engine you'll still never hit TBO if you run POH numbers. The other big thing with this engine is that the TIT probes really only last 200-300 hours - less if you run it hotter than 1600. When the probes fail the TIT reads low, compounding the problems. As an example someone runs it at 1650 indicated when in fact the TIT is really 1750 since the probe is bad. This will mean turbo overhaul, exhaust overhaul and cylinder replacements. Looking over the logs and seeing when the probe was last replaced is very important. I've had three M20Ms and there are a lot of other people on here with a lot of M20M time as well and that's what we have learned so far.

Short for Lake Aero Styling And Repair

For years the only option for rudder trim was this: http://www.aerotriminc.com/id2.html Not a huge difference in price just to add the YD on the Garmin now.

This is one of those rare cases on a Mooney where the lightweight Earth X battery might make enough difference to make it worthwhile.

Seriously though most airplanes have 1.4 pounds of dirt or dead insects in or on the back half of the airplane. It's not going to make any appreciable difference. Putting a small cooler strapped in the front seat would probably give you enough ballast if you were really concerned. But I wouldn't overthink it too much.

Tell her that since you're in the front you need to gain 5 pounds and since she's in the back she needs to lose 5 pounds. Everything should be fine . . lol. Let us know how that goes.

Hmm, so Lord has never heard of the shock discs themselves squeaking and they manufacture them and have for 60+ years and they didn't have a lubrication to recommend. The Mooney pilots who have responded so far on this thread who have at least 100 years experience flying Mooneys have said that it's the landing gear that you're hearing squeak and that the only lubrication needed is just to verify that every zerk has been greased, even the ones that are not noticeable at first glance. (And by the way keep giving it grease til the old grease comes out.) And you're sure that it's the rubber shocks discs that need lubricating, even though you would probably be the only Mooney owner who has ever done this? Finally Lord said you could use Castor oil if you wanted to. Was that for the Mooney or for you that they recommended the Castor Oil . . .lol?

This is the replacement with LEDs from EI: https://iflyei.com/product/r-1-rpm-tachometer-instrument/

How did you get a Dynon Autopilot installed in a C model? I thought they were approved for just for J & K.

J models don't usually exceed 450 knots . . lol Edit: I was beat by a few seconds by @mhrivnak

I bought some from @Yetti a few years back for a previous Mooney.

It's the gear squeaking not the shock discs. There are some less obvious zerks to grease. Make sure you look in the manual and hit them all.

No big deal, it will transfer over to a company called BizFilings.

The ad says JUST SOLD.