jetdriven

Of course they are ! “Put on Mooney Airplane”

PTI degreaser will strip the oily crap off the bellly and not harm the paint. Isopropyl alcohol 90% takes off the brown iridescent streak left behind by exhaust.

We also have a great DER we work with if you need his info, send me an email at byron (at) flyrpm.com

Here’s the thing, if you notify him of an intent to sue, he’s required to notify his insurance company of this material event or otherwise he’s on the hook. Sometimes that’s enough to get them off their ass to fix this 20 or $30,000 event

It’s been several years, but the guy owned that owned bought Dugosh from Ronnie or some guy who had a bonanza and made a fortune printing billboards with a printer. When I was there they were about 15 airplanes in there, nobody had a license and only half of them were Mooney‘s. But that was a few years ago.

Send a picture, although I prefer to keep cables together with zip ties I like to run them through double Adel clamps forward of the firewall it takes time but a very neat appearance

Bit what’s under it and behind it is solid gold.

It looks like a significant oil leak across the top of your engine at the spine. Plus all so you have some spark plug wires sitting on the fuel injector lines.

I haven’t had any success with the marvel mystery oil ring flush procedure, but I have had mixed results or limited results with using the paint can of Berrymans B12 chem tool. That stuff simply runs out the quick drain into the oil bucket with the rest of the oil. Gets disposed with it too. Other than that yeah, perhaps pull the jug and hone it. And I think they used to put bon-ami into the cylinder and run it thinking that would break the cylinder glaze.

here is a 570-hour, 2006 engine with gray paint over the crush washer on the oil sump screen. Which means its never been removed in 16 years. Perhaps a third of the airplanes we get here the first time, we see this. The prebuy-annual was done by a "respected MSC shop" near the seller's home airport. Reviewing the logbooks, the seller had this same shop do his prebuy/annual three years prior. Neither log entry mentions the mooney factory checklist. Or removing this sump screen. The aileron center link was banging into the retract truss, there's a Mooney kit for that. Sparks coming off the starter relay because the nuts were loose. A couple oval belly panels were driven in so tight, they had deformed the belly skin, and had to be drilled out to be removed. The panel hadnt been removed in years, the spar is behind those panels. The buyer, my client, mentioned the shop said they couldnt drill those screws without the previous owner's permission, but it was OK.

So how did this turn out for you? I mean I think corrosion is probably the first thing you’re supposed to look for in a pre-buy along with other things too.So how did this turn out for you? I mean I think corrosion is probably the first thing you’re supposed to look for in a pre-buy along with other things too.

I made a portable tail weight system that I’ve been using for over a year. It consists of some 1x2’s and a 24 in. Square of three-quarter inch plywood it has a two or 3 inch hole in the center. Get a 3/8 inch diameter steel bar also about 2 feet long. And the length of chain is rated for about 1500 pounds get 3 feet of that and then a master link that will fit through the eye of the chain and also fit through the tail tiedown that you can screw closed. So you sit down the one by twos put the plywood on top of that, and put the steel bar in the center of the plywood. Drill a 2 inch hole there pass the bar through the chain, then stack up about six 50-pound bags of sand on the platform with a chain between the bags of sand. It hold it down really good. Be sure to use a tow strap strap all the bags together because if they start falling off it goes bad.

There’s no experimentation requirements for coming down, simply roll the nose forward and trim for a 500 foot per minute descent.. the IAS increases by about 30 kn but it’s still at the top of the green arc, and take the benefit on the descent to offset some of the penalty for climb

I do r doubt you have a fast J. But a couple of things. You have 129 for CAS but there’s a chart in the book that’s shows -2kt from IAS to CAS for correction. Apply that Also at 14.8 DA you’re making something like 55% hp. So the 390 is making 4hp more.

The iO390 engine is 7 hp more at 75% power and less it lower power settings. I’m not sure if anybody’s documented amy real speed gains with this engine

I’ve also procured an ovation interior for my plane I’m curious how you install it. Especially where you section that because that Plane is longer. Please get in touch again. Byron

The wing is held together by the spar and the spar pushes down with gravity, and what does it do it pushes the mains into the ground. So yeah you can sit on the wing tip and guess what are your weight is held up by the main gear. And its shock discs. Meanwhile some of these airplanes hold 600 pounds of fuel which, if stored full all the time can really be significant.

Mark Johnson is great. Also there is a guy helped us in the past, Jeff Kling.

we like checkerboards around here

if the fiberglass moves, it cracks. Grinding it out and replacing it with structural aircraft epoxy and carbon fiber doublers inside fixes this. Then standard bodywork and paint blend and match

We just bought one here at GAI.

We did that. A 1/4” barbed tee with a 1/8” nipple.

What has worked wel on the past. Abrad the surface until it’s shiny clean magnesium. Then wash with Prekote. Then force air dry with heat. Then epoxy 2k primer. Then topcoat. Then leather wrap

It’s a lot more to it than that, the J yokes, for sample, are magnesium, and you need to actually really super clean it up, and then some kind of super primer and then paint it. Simply painting over it is just going to cause filiform corrosion in the span of a year and Then u have corrosion under paint hiding what’s really wrong.

I can see how installing an EIS may be considered a minor alteration but an experimental electronic ignition system isnt going to be so easy, it might as well be something home made, or a MSD-6AL racecar system from the speed shop. Its not a type-certificated or STC'd part. A Weber carburetor surely would run smoother and better than a MA4A Marvel carb, but its the same thing.