jetdriven

You guys are acting like the yellow arc, the wings are gonna fall off. As long as it’s not seriously moderate or severe turbulence, it’s fine. There was a salvage Mooney M20k for bid about 10 years ago, and it looked pretty good till you looked up close, and the wings were bent upwards about a foot on each side, and even the fuselage was bent down in the middle so much that you could put your thumb between the baggage door and the frame with it closed. And then I looked up the NTSB report on this thing and the guy flew through Mountain wave that was so strong it was plus and minus 10 Gs rapidly back-and-forth, the factory estimated. The guy even flew to destination and landed before he figured it out how bad it was.

But lowering the RPM reduces horsepower more than the recovery from having the optimal cylinder pressure at the optimal crank angle.

With a client with a M20J have a porpoised bad landing, and then she did a go around and it did curl both prop tips, similar to the same kind of damage that occurred here. But when we took the prop off the airplane, it actually flexed the prop blades in the hub enough to dislodge the snap ring out of it, and the prop blade was loose in the hub. She could’ve been killed.

Thats why a prebuy and an annual are not the same. You should spend more time looking for corrosion and damage and skip the servicing. Since most people are not following the factory checklist, and not looking at it too in depth, this stuff gets missed.

T-9088 was for later airplanes. It is a P shaped seal. The correct seal for earlier planes is the BA-1706M which Brown stopped offering and the factory only makes infrequently. We have the Gee Bee seal on our plane and although it works for us it’s not easy to install and I’m not sure how many times you have to reposition it to get the door to close and still also seal. We got lucky the first time. We have since stopped installing non-factory seals because we end up with low customer satisfaction and we spend 8 hours doing a job that we bill the customer 3 for, and they’re still not happy.

I think it's more of the efficiency of the prop, but when the plane slows down 6 kn between 2500 and 2700 RPM, and the fuel flow only goes down .3, you can see it. And at 14,000 feet, the airplane slows down 10 kn in turbulence, and the speed at 2400 RPM takes two minutes to recover whereas at 2700 RPM takes 30 seconds. So your average ground speed is just higher. And really you don't have enough horsepower above 10,000 feet anyway, 2700 just gives you more of the 100 HP available. We've done it several times actually..... if you get up to 10,000 feet, and then set it up however you like at 2400 RPM, and look at your JPI fuel and time to destination, and then bring it up to 2700, and then re-lean for best power or slightly lean of that, the fuel at destination often is the same and sometimes less, but the time is always less.

Actually, the miles per gallon goes up, the total trip burn goes down, and the trip time goes down as well.

General the Mooney airplane is slower the higher you go. It seems to not matter much between 3000 and 7000 feet but it’s definitely slower above that. Here’s a real 203 miles an hour true (176kt) in a J model but look at the altitude.

Here’s 2650 rpm and 160 ktas at 2650 rpm. 10GPH that’s just rich of peak.

Your plane would be not just faster but also more efficient at 2500 or even 2600 RPM.

We are an authorized reseller and installer of Surefly, and we’ve probably done about 12 of them at this point. No failures. We had trouble with one that somebody had installed before we connected with the client, it was a very early version 28 V. It would randomly stumble or shut off after flying for a while and I called them up and Just leveled with them and said send me a new unit so I can get this guy out the door and they did, and that was two years ago. He is still going fine. We had another one where It would not work, it wouldn’t power up to time properly. As it turns out, the surefly grounds to the engine and they powder coat the whole case of it and on this B36TC airplane, we had to run a separate wire from the surefly to the case and then it worked fine. That took a while to understand what was happening, so I would probably sand some of the powder coat off under the magneto clamp so that you have a sure fire ground on an IO550. He previously had two slick magneto’s and the TSIO520UB would not run lean of peak at all. And he probably spent a few thousand dollars chasing down induction leaks and GAMI injector tuning and everything else you can imagine. But since we installed the Surefly, along with a set of fine wire plugs, he’s been blown away. So they don’t advertise a performance increase, but I think it’s there.

Mooney did change the design of later bravo airplanes, and I think earlier ones were modified, they put a heat shield between the turbo and the firewall, and they rerouted the brake line tubing away from the area directly behind the firewall. That famous crash was because the outlet of the turbo torched a hole in the firewall, and then melted some plastic tubing that had brake fluid That would empty from the reservoir and feed the fire. Pretty much worst case.

I've got a serviceable Dukes actuator here. It came out of my plane because I converted to the newer style. The Ovation-style retrofit interior and the side crank dont really go together.

That’s obvious,, COM 1 is always the one with the biggest screen

We have done perhaps 12 of them. there's not much downside, in fact, the Surefly really isn't much more expensive than a new slick magneto, for example. They claim you can just drop it in, but it's not that simple, you have to run a wire from the battery which means pulling the left side wall panels and then getting a wire through the firewall. You also need to figure out if you're gonna keep the impulse coupling magneto, I certainly would, and then you need to figure out if you can repurpose the left side harness to fire all of the top plugs while you put the surefly on the bottom with fine wires.

If you push on the knob with 20 pounds of force against the stop, it will go to 2680, and when you let go of it, it will come back to 2500. But it appears that this doesn’t work in the air. at sometimes the stop pin on the arm contacts the screw, and when you overdrive it like that, it actually flexes that pin and allows the governor to move another quarter of a degree. It just seems really hard to believe that a quarter degree rotation is 100 RPM roughly.

Anything is possible for sure.

It’s governing it to 2500 rpm. The arm hits the stop and the cable has cushion. It just doesn’t seem to work properly after takeoff

ill go look again. The Nall report has a lot of info.

actually i think the SE piston accident rate between part 91 and 135 is something like 30 times less

Standard thickness side windows are fine and the standard vent is fine too. If you want a vent on the copilots side in the door window, you could do that but most people just open the door so I think it's a limited use. The quarter inch windshield is worth doing, but you have to bevel or sand the edge enough and create a step so that it will fit in the channel. It's another 3-4 hours of labor. But I think the quarter inch windshield is a good idea for hitting birds at 200 miles an hour. Do yourself a favor and get the solar control UV gray.

YES. its annoying

VA doesn’t have much to do with turbulence, that’s the maximum speed you can input any single control input without damaging the airframe. The top of the green arc relates to turbulence. And the Mooney is very strongly built, so keep it out of the yellow in rough turbulent air. Don’t make any full control inputs above VA.

We called our insurance company and were covered because it is an FAA listed airport so we went there. It's fine.

the vent is supposed to bend forward behind that mast