jetdriven

What has worked wel on the past. Abrad the surface until it’s shiny clean magnesium. Then wash with Prekote. Then force air dry with heat. Then epoxy 2k primer. Then topcoat. Then leather wrap

It’s a lot more to it than that, the J yokes, for sample, are magnesium, and you need to actually really super clean it up, and then some kind of super primer and then paint it. Simply painting over it is just going to cause filiform corrosion in the span of a year and Then u have corrosion under paint hiding what’s really wrong.

I can see how installing an EIS may be considered a minor alteration but an experimental electronic ignition system isnt going to be so easy, it might as well be something home made, or a MSD-6AL racecar system from the speed shop. Its not a type-certificated or STC'd part. A Weber carburetor surely would run smoother and better than a MA4A Marvel carb, but its the same thing.

No

I think that was same pilot who said he was getting a "light rattle" which was surprising to hear. right after that it stalled and crashed.

Notice they use a universal head rivet in this instruction drawing. I tried this a bunch of times before I realized it’s pretty much impossible to try to drill a hardened steel stem that’s smaller than the bit you’re using that’s surrounded by a nice mass of soft aluminum. The drill bit slips off of the stem, then hits the body of the Rivet and then figure eights the hole and trashes the part.

That’s the method we use to cut off the universal head cherry max rivets. Destroy the locking collar, punch the stem and then drill out the body. Easy. But the flush ones when you get the cut off wheel deep enough to destroy the lock and collar you’ve already killed the piece that is holding on as well. I’ve had limited success with a 1/8 inch diameter ball style metal cutter on a Dremel tool, but the cutter is not cheap, it takes about 10 or 15 minutes to kill the rivet enough to drill it, and between the Price of several of these cutters and the time it takes to remove a bunch of rivets it gets expensive to do it that way

I haven’t found a way to remove flush Cherry other than destroying the rivet and whatever it is holding on as well. The bad thing is that retainer strip cost 1000$.

Yup. we did a 1/4” windshield before the last one. All the things you’re taking about this has #5 universal head cherry max rivets. We had to destroy all the rivets by cursing and sanding the heads off and killed the retainer strip also. Milling down the windshield. Then trimming it and fitting the new strip took over 30 hours. It took 3 days with two people. It looks great though.

3/16” 10-15hrs.

I think the installation instructions say 1ma.

I see folks putting the GFC500 controller at the bottom of the stack and I see them at the top and I see them on the right stack as well. I’m curious the decision matrix that drove you to put it at the bottom

If it’s not an emergency transmission it’s improper use. I know you think it’s funny and I know you admitted in earlier post that you’re sort of responsible for this, but that’s not a place for your political speech.

You sound like one of the perpetrators. Here’s the thing, I’ve had I don’t know how many radio calls blocked by somebody saying let’s go Brandon on guard, including communication during critical phases of flight. I hope they catch all of them And suspend their certificates. There’s no excuse for this crap. I know you feel emboldened because you’re hiding behind a fake screen name and an LLC in Broomfield Colorado registered to a lawyer, but you know what you can still be found.

On a continental engine you can pull all the lifters and inspect the cam and lifters both.

It’s just a piece of .032 riveted into the trailing edge of the aileron. I suppose the person who did that didn’t know you can adjust the flap up stop and the aileron trailing edge to get the same effect.

whats a distributor arm

Pull it and send it to Aircraft wuakity instruments of Wichita Kansas.

Aero accessories of Van Nuys will do the 500 hour inspection on the dual mag. Do yourself a favor, however, and just get new capacitors with it. We had one fail 30 hours later and had to take the mag back back out and send it back off to get checked again.

What is the actuator that came after the Dukes but before the Plessy?

But the suppliers will only sell them to Mooney. . That’s the problem here too…

curious whats the price for a reconditioned actuator

if thats your piss color...... see a dr

Perhaps he can show her the new piper Meridian with auto land. Because you know turbine engines are about 15 times or 20 times more reliable than pistons, and the auto land is kind of like a parachute in a way... it gets you to the runway and even stops. So it's even better, you don't have to hike out of the woods.