N201MKTurbo

Who cares. At your run up, lean to max RPM, then richen 100 RPM or so. Watch your CHTs on climb and if they are hotter then you like, richen a bit.

My most extreme flight was a flight from Phoenix to Oakland CA 4.5 there 1.75 home.

Aviation oils are AD (ashless dispersant) oils. Auto oils are not meant to be burned. They know that aircraft engines burn oil. Auto oils have an additive package that contains metals (zlnc) and other additives that will leave ash deposits when burned. These ash deposits can build up-in your combustion chambers and exhaust valve stems. These deposits can cause stuck valves and pre ignition. Most of the deposits in our cylinders are from our fuel, an amaglum of lead bromide, carbon and lead oxide. Some of the lead oxide can get reduced to pure lead, which you can see as shiny balls in your spark plugs. The shiny lead is a thin layer over the lead oxide. You can see that if you bust up one of the balls.

Don’t get too excited about the tailwinds. You have to come home sometime.

If they don’t work, just throwing them in a can of solvent, working them till they are free and letting the solvent evaporate will work as good as anything.

It is hard to imagine how the flammability of 5606 is a concern for us. We don’t have a constantly pressurized hydraulic system with 10s of gallons of fluid in them that runs near and through our engine compartments. We have maybe 2 cups of unpressurized fluid that is nowhere near any ignition sorce. Have you ever tried to light 5606? The only way to get it to sustain a flame is to use a wick. A rag soaked in 5606 will burn, but not very agressively. Here is some trivia, the low flammable hydraulic fluids were not developed for aircraft use. The army used 5606 in its tanks to rotate the turrets and raise the guns. If a hydraulic line got hit by a bullet or shrapnel it would make a high pressure mist of 5606, not a good day for the crew. They tested the fluids by shooting containers of hydraulic fluid with incendiary rounds..

If you think you have a fuel issue, remove the air filter, spray about 10 seconds of starting fluid in there and crank it. If it fires off and runs for a few seconds, you have a fuel problem.

I have fixed a few of these. It is almost certainly the nose gear actuator rods. At some point, somebody tried to fix the preloads. They fixed it alright. Those rods need to be precisely adjusted. It isn’t hard if you know what you are doing, but if you don’t, you can screw them up royally in short order. When properly adjusted you can work the J bar with your fingertips.

You should check the level and top it off if low. You need to use 5606 hydraulic fluid. Buy a pump oil can and some clear tubing to stick on it. Stick the tubing in it and pump till it is full. Monitoring its level will give you a good indicator of your brake health.

At least every decade. Sadly that’s not always the case. It seems like every Mooney I lube for the first time, I find a rod end or bearing that hasn’t been lubed since it left the factory.

Should be. Doesn’t mean it was.

I had an old gray beard pilot tell me how to break vertigo. It sounded silly until one night I got the spins. I tried his method and it is solid. It completely cured it. When you get the spins, close your eyes, tilt your head back as far as possible, then whack yourself as hard as you can in your forehead then tilt your head down and open your eyes looking at your AI. Remember this. You will need it some day and you will thank the old guy.

It always amuses me when I open a tank and see that nut plate slathered with sealant. The only leak point is through the rivets. Even sealing the shop heads is worthless. You need to seal the bottom surface and the rivets. Once the tank is opened up, it only takes a few minutes to drill out the rivets, clean up the nut plate and buck the rivets back in. The bottom surface needs to be sealed and the rivets need to be bucked wet with sealent.

I once flew from the Aurora CO (RIP) airport to Centennial airport in reported 3 miles of vis. If I haven’t been super familiar with the ground references, it would have been impossible. I called the tower over Parker Road on a 5 mile right base to 28 with information XX. The tower said “OK, I can’t see you, cleared 28. Contact ground after landing.” I couldn’t see the runway until I crossed the fence. I was pretty close.

You forgot the ram air cable.

When I said above that it would take longer if you tried to short cut the jab, that meant not removing the lower cowl.

I ended up leaving the duct attached to the cowl and removing the bolts from the servo. They are easier to get to. There are only 4 of them and they are less traumatic on the boot.

Are they using screws and nuts on that one? It looks kind of long to rivet.

I owned an M20F for 20 years. I could R&R the starter in about 4 hours. But I had the sequence down cold. If I wasn’t very familiar with the E F Mooneys, I can see it taking that long to figure it out, especially if you tried to short cut it.

Take yours apart, clean the contacts and put it back together again. Don't mess with the bumps on the bottom just clean them with solvent. Use fine sand paper on the U shaped pieces to smooth out any pitting, then polish them till shiny. Reassemble with DC4.

They approve those all the time. You just need an A&P to sign off that it is safe to fly.

Contact the nearest EAA chapter and tell them what you have.

Make sure you get your engine back. Those parts have value to the experimental folks.

You said you had a bad camshaft. The report says you have a bad crankshaft. Big difference. The case repair should be about $2000. A lot cheaper than a new case.

What’s wrong with your case? Who said they cannot overhaul it? Did they send your cam out for regrind and it failed the regrind?