N201MKTurbo

If you were a CB with rivet skills, you could make a doubler and drop a few rivets in.

I always just pull the throttle to idle. You could practice at altitude with the mixture at ICO. Just hope you can actually make a runway and don5 have any hot start issues. I once shut down an engine during multi training. It took us 20 minutes to get it going again.

There is another Mooney owner who is in the same boat. His issue was caused by them not completely cleaning out the stripper. It is blowing bubbles along all the seams and causing leaks. I have been mentoring him on tank repairs. He has gotten quite good at it.

All of the above. After talking to a coworker at the time, the real cause was the technician who did my tanks was going through a bad divorce and hated the world at the time. The coworker currently owns the business. He didn’t at the time, he was only an employee. The new owner of the shop has said he would do a complete reseal, only if I wait 8 months for a slot. So, no real warrantee. Plus I would have to get the plane to the shop and back, so the free repair would be a couple of grand.

You didn’t ask the question “If you had your tanks resealed by one of the names above, how long before they started leaking?” In my case it was 6 months. I have been fixing it ever since. Biggest waste of money in my long aviation life. My M20F was 36 years old when I sold it. It didn’t leak at all.

Maybe you should consider new motor mounts and shimming your engine up properly.

Anybody who listens to somebody on an Internet forum is an idiot……

You could remove the window trim then attach a strap to the airframe or the top of the sidewall so the attachment is hidden under the window trim. Instead of a strap, you could make a sheet metal clip that clips to the top of the sidewall material and hangs down with whatever clip you need.

The pumps are not an issue. Fuel will flush out any water. As far as the servo is concerned, the best thing you can do is go fly the airplane as soon as possible after the water incident. I think there are some pressure sense aeras where the fuel doesn't circulate, so if water got in there it would tend to stay there. On the flip side, the fuel should keep the water from getting in there in the first place. I have a paper RSA service manual at the hangar. I will have to look at it. I've never tried it, but it should work, if you connected the fuel input line to 30 PSI of compressed air, and set the servo to full throttle and rich mixture, it should blow any fuel and water out of the servo. If you didn't want to blow it into your cylinders, unhook the hose going to your spider and catch what comes out.

It can. I’ve seen meter movements that had tape around the windings. The adhesive on the tape failed and the tape lifted and jammed the movement. if you can get the movement out of the plane, rocking it back and forth in your hand will usually move the needle. You can try to manually move it with a toothpick. I use a toothpick because there is less chance of chipping the paint off of the needle or the face.

If you just use your ohmmeter on a low range, it should make the meter move.

I don’t think anything is grounded in the ammeter circuit. It is just a floating voltmeter across the shunt.

Getting that piece of angle at the end at the correct angle is very important. Just taking to a welder is probably a bad idea. You need to find some way to jig it. At the very least, just tack it on, take it to the plane and bend it till it is right and then have the welder finish the weld.

When I had an M20F my support rod broke just like yours. I welded it.

I would sign it off with a logbook entry….

FWIW I was a bit disappointed with that museum. I like to look at artifacts. This museum is light on artifacts and heavy on stories.

Tucson airport has an arrester cable at both ends of 11-29. It is there to catch fighter jets. I was landing there once and just about to flare and the thing popped up in front of me. I had enough energy to glide over it. The people in the tower freaked out. Kept asking if I was OK. I was fine.

If it has an STC, you will need to file a 337 and an IA will need to approve it for return to service. You need to make friends with an IA.

It is a cheap and easy mod. If you have sheet metal skills, it is an afternoon project. The hardest part is removing the lower cowl. Just remember measure twice and cut once.

Mine was leaking oil and it was getting on the vacuum pump. I replaced the seal twice and it wouldn’t stop leaking. I chucked the shaft in a lathe and polished the surface the seal rides on. It hasn’t leaked since.

The scavenger pump is a positive displacement pump. It slurps up the oil like the last bits of milkshake in the bottom of the glass. It pulls air in through both the turbine and compressor sides of the shaft. The oil pump pushes the oil into the bearings and the scavenger pump slurps it up. If you idle for a long time, it may not slurp hard enough and the turbo and return lines can fill with oil. The check valves are supposed to keep it from draining back into the turbo. If it drains back into the turbo, it will seep into the turbine and compressor housings.this doesn’t hurt anything, but it will make a big cloud of oil smoke when you start up. It will burn the oil in the turbine housing and the oil in the compressor housing will get sucked into the intake and make oil smoke. Your oil consumption will also increase because on every shutdown you will lose the oil that drains into the turbo. If enough oil drains into the turbo, it will drain out the tail pipe. If you just kick up the RPMs for a few seconds before shutdown, the scavenger pump will slurp up all that oil.

The rules for certified airplanes have been in place for a long time. You must have known that when you bought your plane. It sounds like you would be happier with an experimental. A nice RV6 or something like that.

You are fine. I’m sure she won’t do it again. Our Mooneys are tough birds.

I worked at a place that had a vapor degreaser that was used to clean the flux off of circuit boards. It sprung a leak one day and I was asked to fix it. There I was laying in a 1 inch deep puddle of the stuff. It’s a wonder I’m still alive…

I would look at the check valves before I would do anything with the turbo. A brand new turbo will do that if the check valves start leaking.