N201MKTurbo

Wow, my computer is going crazy! Major cut anf paste error!

I believe there are a few issues with starting a cold engine. One is frosting the spark plugs which happens when spark plugs are below freezing. The pressure drop from the piston sucking the air into the cylinder can cause the temperature of the intake charge to drop below the dew point and the liquid water can freeze on the electrodes shorting the plug. Almost everything else is caused by cold oil. The oil can get so viscous that the starter cannot turn the engine fast enough to start. Once the engine starts the oil is so viscous that it does not flow in the engine, starving the bearings of oil. The parts at most risk when starting a cold engine are the cam lobes and piston pins. These parts rely on splash lubrication (or oil jets) and until the oil is flowing freely they are starved of oil. I think the worst thing you can do is cold start an engine that has been sitting for a long time so the oil has drained off the cam and lifters. If I could not heat the whole engine, I think heating the oil would be a good choice. Also make sure you change to multi-weight oil if you are planning on flying in cold weather. I believe there are a few issues with starting a cold engine. One is frosting the spark plugs which happens when spark plugs are below freezing. The pressure drop from the piston sucking the air into the cylinder can cause the temperature of the intake charge to drop below the dew point and the liquid water can freeze on the electrodes shorting the plug. Almost everything else is caused by cold oil. The oil can get so viscous that the starter cannot turn the engine fast enough to start. Once the engine starts the oil is so viscous that it does not flow in the engine, starving the bearings of oil. The parts at most risk when starting a cold engine are the cam lobes and piston pins. These parts rely on splash lubrication (or oil jets) and until the oil is flowing freely they are starved of oil. I think the worst thing you can do is cold start an engine that has been sitting for a long time so the oil has drained off the cam and lifters. If I could not heat the whole engine, I think heating the oil would be a good choice. Also make sure you change to multi-weight oil if you are planning on flying in cold weather.

I have a friend who was just transferred to Costa Rica and He invited me to stay at his place anytime I wanted. It sounds like Mooney Trip to me! Does anybody have any experience flying there?

I would say it is a Stall warning device.

The only problem I see is if you are IFR current and on an IFR clearance and wearing a view limiting device, you would still need a safety pilot for when you enter VFR conditions. I believe that sense 2005 that safety pilot would need an instrument rating, before that a VFR pilot would do.

I think I have a rebuilt yellow tagged cooler in the hanger from when I had my M20F. If you havn't found one let me know and I'll go out and check. It has not been used sense overhaul.

I live in the Phoenix area and staying IFR current around here takes a real effort. KPHX is below VFR minimums about 30 minuets a year. It is rare to get IFR around here that doesn't involve severe storms or icing!

If the internal timing is set correctly. It usually takes me about an hour to set the points on a D3000, but its my plane and I'm picky about that.

The magneto can be put on upside down from the last time it was installed and it works just fine, it just swaps one side for the other. I think it is your internal timing. The points should be set to open at the timing mark, not close.

The rudder, horizontal stabilizer and wing have straight leading edges because it is the cheapest and easiest shape to assemble, wrapping a piece of sheet metal around anything other than a straight edge wastes material. Read Al Mooney’s book, it wasn’t done for any particular aerodynamic reason.

This happened a few years later.... http://www.ntsb.gov/aviationquery/brief.aspx?ev_id=20070418X00434&key=1

No, I didn't want to go, she insisted. After that landing she said "I knew you could do it". She was just glad to get to her parents for Christmas dinner.

I have the WIFI only. When i need data I just turn on the WIFI hotspot function of my phone. There are free apps for the Android that enable the hotspot function for no additional charge. I use a Dual GPS.

If it looses its bearings, there is most likely a loose connection in the radio coupler. The CIIB autopilot is an analog autopilot that sums up to three error signals to get the final error signal to correct the roll angle of the plane. The lowest level error comes from AI, and with the heading switch off the error is the difference between the AI output and the roll knob. The first thing to check is performance of the autopilot with the heading switch off. This will eliminate the radio coupler and DG. With the heading switch on, the error signal is the sum of the bank angle from the AI and the error signal from the radio coupler. The radio coupler has two levels of operation, the most basic is heading mode. In heading mode the error from the radio coupler is the error signal from the DG which is the difference between the heading bug position and straight up. Testing the the autopilot in heading mode will eliminate any problems caused by your radios (GPS, LOC, NAV). The highest level of operation is when the autopilot is coupled to a radio navigation source. The radio coupler will sum the error from the DG and the radio to form the error signal sent to the amplifier (the box with the roll knob). By testing these three modes seperatly you can find where the intermittent connection is that is causing your auropilot to loose its way.

My insturment shop remarked the color bands on the face of the tach for $50.00.

The vibration is tortional vibration it is the twisting of the crankshaft. You cannot feel it very much, but it is incredably stressful to the crankshaft and propeller. I have an article somewhere about the development of the R2600 crankshaft that goes into a great deal of detail on the subject. If anybody would like to read it let me know and I'll find it and post it.

When I was younger and the rules were a more lax I flew in icing more then I should have. This was in my 67 M20F. The heater will only clear about a one inch strip near the bottom of the windshield. I found it effective to get a credit card from your wallet, stick your arm out the side window and scrape the ice off the windshield. I have landed with my only outside visability being the open side window.

My ex-wife's parents lived in Sedona, so I made more trips there then I can remember. One Christmas we flew up there and the weather was horrible. I was the only plane in the sky. On Phoenix approach and center - no other planes except airlines. It was snowy all over and the winds were nasty. On approach to Sedona the winds were out of the northeast at about 50-60 knots. About 1/4 mile from the end of the runway there was a downdraft so strong that I could not maintain altitude with full power. I dropped below the runway about 50 feet. To avoid crashing into the cliff I turned right and flew along the right edge of the hill. After I passed the end of the hill the downdraft subsided and I started to climb. When I was about 20 feet above the runway I side slipped back to the runway and touched down about mid field. Sedona is always interesting.

When my son was about 2 1/2 I took him flying. Strapped his child seat into the right seat and off we went. Just after liftoff he decided to put both feet on the yoke and push as hard as he could.... Never learned about that in flight school.

I've been to all three more then three times each (have to check the logbook) McCarren used to be OK, but I stopped going there about 10 years ago. I always go to Henderson now. The fuel is cheap the rental cars are cheap and it takes no time to get to the strip.

If it is bad to hose down a Mooney, what happens when you fly it IFR in heavy rain OMG!

With both mags firing the fuel charge burns from two locations, with one mag firing it only burns from one location. This has the same effect as retarding your timing, it will lower cylinder pressures and reduce power. This will make the engine less prone to detonation and will reduce stress on the engine. Because the fuel charge is burning slower there will be less heat transferred to the cylinder thus reducing CHTs and more heat left in the fuel charge when the exhaust valve opens raising the EGTs. A rich mixture burns faster than a lean mixture, so some power can be recovered by going ROP. nothing you do will harm your engine.

Most insturment shops can overhaul the gauge. Make sure it has a label or they won't touch it. Expect to pay about $300 for an overhaul. It can be repaired for less.

I have a 115 cu ft steel tank that has some life left. Let me know if you are interested and I will run out to the hanger and get the numbers off of it.

I have the M20Turbos conversion, not the RaJay conversion. I was just saying that it is essentially the same conversion with some upgrades that make it work much better. I would miss the turbo if I didn’t have it. I flew a NA M20F for 19 years before buying this plane, so I understand the differences. I make most of my trips at high altitude and enjoy the smoother air and getting over the weather. I flew about 2000 hours in and around the Colorado Rockies with my M20F and got very good at negotiating the passes and getting around at 12-13 K. Now I just fly over the top at 16-17K The extra speed is nice; I once had 245 KTS GS at 17500 in level flight flying from SFO to CHD (KPHX). I normally see 155 KTS down low and 185 KTS up high.