N201MKTurbo

I looked into this once. The switches are TI Klixon. They are simi-custom. The switches are standard parts,but the covers are made to order. 100 part minimum. I think printing them is a great idea, if they don't last then make me 10 of them, I'll change them every annual.

Nitrox is just compressed air with oxygen added. The scuba shop will have an oxygen tank they use to add the additional oxygen to the air tanks. What they are saying is don't put compressed air in the aircraft tanks, just oxygen.

I can get the 5 year hydro test done for $20. Anything above that is paying the mechanic to R&R the tank and ship it to the test facility.

Yep, simple. You will need the two new o-rings and a new cotter pin. Unless you are just doing the big one, which is a little easier then typing this reply.

It sounds like a short in your stall horn...

You don't have to carry log books or STC paperwork with you when you fly. If you get ramp checked they need to make an appointment to review them. As long as you have all your required documents with you, you will be fine. Just tell them you have all the STCs and 337s for the mods. They can't call you a lier, but then again you better have them when the day comes. If it does turn out that you do have some un-approved mods, act very greatful that he/she helped you out in finding the discrepancies and have a plan to fix the problem.

What is all this crazy talk about scrapping airplanes? A high strung engine like an IO-360 could easily be made to run on 95UL, just retard the timing or replace the pistons with lower compression pistons. Now you have a perfectly good 190 HP Mooney. May need to replace the exhaust valve seats, but still not scrapping the airplane.

I can't wait to chase a drone around to see how well it can "see and avoid"

I'm afraid the cart will be dragging the horse on this one. Nobody will spend the money to upgrade their engines until it is the only option to operate their otherwise worthless aircraft.

Ok, I've looked all over and I can't find that induction inlet anywhere. It looks like LoPresti, but it is in the wrong place, and it is not a LoPresti cowl.

You take off, climb to altitude, level off, trim, adjust the power super precisely, then you settle in for the flight..... You glance at your ground speed and curse the weather man for getting the winds aloft wrong... Then you look at the airspeed and it is low, you check your power settings again and wonder what is wrong... Then you see that gear handle......

Two people for eight hours @$75/hr = $1200.00 in labor plus $400.00 in parts. $1500.00 sounds like a fair deal.

The only thing that will make 100LL go away will be the enviornmentelists regulating it out of existance, which they seem hell bent on doing. As for TEL, it is a simple molacule and can't be that hard to make, if the existing supplier goes out of business and there is still a demand for the stuff somebody will make it.

It is an ARI cowl mod http://www.aeroresourcesinc.com/store_/images/classifieds/237-1.pdf

Unless it is scored, all you need to do is replace the o-rings. They are easy to replace and inexpensive. Well the one where the shaft goes in can be a little tricky, but not that bad.

I've gotten 1000 hours out of massive also. The only reason I'm using fine wires now is I found a screaming deal on EBAY. I have looked all over the web and through the books I have, and I can see no credible indication that the electrodes on fine wire plugs are plated. That seems ludicrous! They would fail almost instantly weather sand blasted or not. The wear indications in the champion service manual show the width of the side electrode and the center electrode eroded by about 50% for the normal worn out condition, this would certainly have eaten through any plating, besides if they are plated, what are we paying so much extra for? It seems like a fine wire would be cheaper to make then massives if it only had a few micrograms of precious metal.

I've never tried adjusting one right out of the box, they are always right on. Maybe running them anneals them and makes them less brittle.

Also, I've always sand blasted my fine wire plugs and they seem to last about 1000 hours. They probably get blasted 10 to 15 times in their life. I always use glass beads in my cleaner which are pretty gentle, but I think this sand blasting thing is an old wives tail too.. I'm going to stick to clean spark plugs...

I've been adjusting fine wire plugs with a pair of needle nose pliers for 30 years and I've never broken an electrode. Has anyone actually broken one, or is this an old wives tail? Maybe I'm just lucky...

I think racing fuel is about $25/gal

100 octane aviation fuel (Green) has 6gm/Gal TEL 100LL aviation fuel (Blue) has 4gm/Gal TEL The last premium mogas with lead had 0.1gm/Gal TEL Anything they do to make unleaded AvGas will make it more expensive! I would be willing to detune my engine by retarding the timing so it would work with a lower octane aviation fuel. This fuel would be 100LL without the lead which is about 95 octane (not exactly sure). On another blog I stated this and everyone thought loosing some engine power was worse then death. I would consider the continued economical operation of my airplane to be more important. Plus it would spur the development and acceptance of electronic ignition and fuel injection systems that would restore the performance with the lower octane fuel.

The environmentalists think we are all going to die from lead poisoning and kill all the children too.

I once was checking the fuel and the sample was clear.... I went into the FBO office with the sample cup and asked the guy at the counter "what is this"? He looked at it and said "I don't know, where did you get it" I said "out of your 100LL pump" It turns out that the gas company had delivered 89 octane mogas instead of 100LL. The funny thing is that 10 airplanes had topped off and I was the first one to notice... I had a trip to make so i drained out all but 10 gallons and flew to the next airport... The plane flew like it always did.

Wow, flying is boring enough, all I have to do up there is control altitude, I would fall asleep if I didn't have that to do. I flew most of my IFR in my M20F with just a wing leveler. When I got my J with the CIIB I thought I had died and gone to heven! If you cannot fly hard IFR without an autopilot, you should not be flying IFR....