N201MKTurbo

23.1353 (h)(1) In the event of a complete loss of the primary electrical power generating system, the battery must be capable of providing electrical power to those loads that are essential to continued safe flight and landing for: (i) At least 30 minutes for airplanes that are certificated with a maximum altitude of 25,000 feet or less; and (ii) At least 60 minutes for airplanes that are certificated with a maximum altitude over 25,000 feet. (2) The time period includes the time to recognize the loss of generated power and to take appropriate load shedding action. The FAA has been requiring compliance with this lately, meaning that a capacity test is required at annual. If the battery won't pass the test then you need a new one.

I just use a sectional when flying over the mountains at night....

Definitely sounds like a probe. I have had a cylinder completely quit and had to fly about 20 miles on three cylinders. It runs a bit rough, but not plane destroying rough. It made enough power to fly OK. I had an exhaust valve stick open.

I believe Lake Aero Styling can repair the mounts.

Sorry, I was busy yesterday. I need to check the logs to see when it was done, time seems to fly these days. And I have pictures to prove what i said. I took my plane there because they were supposed to be the best, and I have heard good things about them sense. I had my plane done when they were just moving into their new shop at the new airport. I was the first airplane they did in their new shop and they were a bit disorganized. The warranty I had said that all repairs would be done in Wilmar. All things considered, it cost about $2000.00 to deliver and pickup the plane from Arizona to Minnesota. I should have contacted them, but I didn't have the time to take the plane back for warranty work, so I just fixed it myself.

My Mooney lives at CHD it's a beautiful time to be in AZ. Went hiking in the Superstitions today, it was perfect!

I want Duke's alternator, I could solve the energy crisis

Every time I have had a diode failure or a stator winding failure, you will get a noticeable high pitched whine in your radios that varies with RPM. In most cases if an alternator drops a single phase it will still work good enough. After it drops the second phase, it'll barely run the radios and the whine will be very loud. I have repaired quite a few alternators for cars and aircraft, all diode failures have been mechanical, not an actual failure of the diode. The diodes work loose from their mounts or their leads fracture from vibration or thermal cycling. Hot wireing the field as Jose suggests is a good way to verify that the alternator is working, just don't let it go very long or it will ruin your battery, and make sure you disconnect the regulator when you do this or you could ruin the regulator.

Yea, That's an airport car! (truck) You could probably sell the rack to pay for the first year of insurance!

I ment the left tank is now leaking. I havn't opened it up yet, so I don't know how it was done.

I have wrote about it before. They didn't have it finished when promissed, after I bought tickets to pick it up and took time off work. They ruined the paint on the landing gear, wheel wells and portions of the wing and fuselage. It took me about 30 hours of work to fix it. It started leaking within two weeks, I'm sure they would have fixed it, but the logistics and cost of taking it back were prohibitive. I have done two repairs to the right tank, each one took about 12 hours of my time. The right tank is now leaking. When I was fixing the tank I noticed that there was no bead of sealant applied, only a brush coat. The Mooney service manual is very specific about this. The only place there was the red liquid butal rubber applied was in the cells that you can see through gas caps, I can only assume they were trying to cut corners and decive me.

My airport car was a fantastic 1984 Ford Taurus. Insurance cost more then the car. It was ugly and ran Ok. Ten years and 10,000 miles later it was still ugly and still ran OK. I even changed the oil once.

My reseal cost almost $9000.00 not including the transportation, and they did a lousy job. It was done at Wilmar...

I have never done an engine swap on a K, but on a Lycoming, it is easier to remove the engine mount from the firewall with the engine still attached. By default you have the engine mount off the plane. You are crazy not to strip and re-paint it at that time. Strip it with sand blasting or chemical stripper, or both. A wire wheel helps also. Inspect it while stripped. Prime it with anti-corrosion paint. Zinc chromate works the best but it is getting hard to come by. Zinc phosphate works OK but it takes a long time to dry. I prefer to paint it with Tempo aircraft paint.

Give the pilot a break! He was a student pilot, he's not suposed to be perfect. How many of you were taught, in ground school, to look out for cars on short final? I'm just glad nobody got hurt. BTW there is no shortage of stupid SUV drivers, I'm sure I'll find a few today... Also... I bet that pilot will never hit another car on final again, he learned that lesson!

I have an M20Turbos J. I'm not sure if I would pay $40K for it. When I bought this plane, I paid an extra 20K for it. It was already installed in the plane. I had an M20F for 19 years before I bought this plane. I used to fly it all over the Rocky Mountains, including a few landings at Leadville, CO. I never had any trouble getting into high altitude airports with the NA M20F.

I had an airport car for 15 years that I kept in Tucson, I commuted from Phoenix three times a week with the Mooney. It was a daily driver so I didn't have the problems you guys are talking about. My biggest problem was the yearly smog inspections. The ones in Pima county didn't count in Maricopa county. I had to drive the car back to Phoenix every year to get it smog checked. I finally got hold of a sympathetic person at DMV who let me register it to my cube in Tucson so I could get it tested locally.

I have electric trim, I only use it for big moves, the wheel is a lot more accurate.

If you want to really do it right it is not that difficult to remove the whole jackscrew, disassemble it and completely clean and re-lube it. It will make a huge improvement in your trim system. First remove the two fairings that cover the gap in the tail and the access covers forward of the gap. Remove the belly panels to access the bottom of the trim wheel. Run the trim wheel to the nose up stop. Accurately measure the distance between the bottom of the tail and the fuselage, you will use this measurement to re-calibrate the trim. Loosen the boot and remove the bolt that holds the trim link to the jackscrew. Remove the cotter pins and clevis pins from the universal joint on the torque tube just behind the trim wheel. If you have electric trim, loosen the two bolts that tension the chain and remove the chain from large sprocket. Just let the chain hang loose around the torque tube. Slide the entire torque tube assembly towards the front of the plane, disengaging the square coupling at the back of the jackscrew. Remove the two bolts holding the jackscrew and slide it out towards the front of the plane. Completely disassemble the bearing holder and remove the bearings. Remove the snap rings holding the bearing shields, remove all the balls from the bearings, clean and reassemble with Aeroshell 7. Clean the jackscrew, working it back and forth in the solvent until it is completely clean, dry with air and then work as much Aeroshell 7 into the screw as possible. Reassemble in the reverse order. After the jackscrew and torque tube are reassembled, make sure the trim wheel is at the nose up stop, rotate the end of the jackscrew with your fingers and trial fit the link until the gap measurement matches the original measurement and then reassemble the link. Put your plane back together and marvel at how well your trim works!

I had the same problem, but it only happened on one tank. I rebuilt the fuel selector and the problem went away. In my case I beleve it was drawing air into the fuel stream at the fuel selector. I did notice that the markings on the fuel pressure gage are very accurate, as soon as the pressure drops below the green, the engine starts to run rough.

The problem is with the Dukes actuator. They were installed on all Mooneys through about 1980. The newer ones have their own issues. I wish my J had a Johnson Bar.

One sold on ebay last week for $35 The whole thing can be repaired with standard orings.

FYI, my friend works for Intel in Heredia in the suburbs of San Jose. I don't think he has found a place yet. He may want me to ferry his Bonanza down there.

Thanks! Just the info I was looking for!

I think I found the last used spline two years ago. I had to pay $500.00 for a $20.00 part. Be very careful with it. If the spline is not completely stripped go in with a needle file and clean up the ends of the splines until it re-engages. I safety wired the lever in the disengaged position. My ex-partner was kind of short and his knee would hit the lever and engage it. He wasn't very careful about checking the position of the lever before he actuated the landing gear. We stripped out the spline coupling three times. I'm suprised that someone like lake Aero Styling hasn't had some made.