N201MKTurbo

If you test it with a resistor, it may or may not show the problem you have. Most of these things become intermittent because of vibration. After you put the test resistor in place of the sender, tap on the metal box that holds the gauges to see if the reading stays steady. If it does then you need a new sender, if it doesn't then you need to fix the gauge. If it is intermittent, first re-seat it a bunch of times to clean the connections. If that doesn't fix it then remove the metal can from the gauge. There are two sliders on a wire-wound resistor (Wheatstone bridge), being careful not to move them lift them up and work a dollar bill between the slider and the wires and carefully work it back and forth. This will clean the connection. Put it back together and try it again. If it is still intermittent you will have to send it out for repair. I met a man at last years FAA maintenance symposium who fixes them. If you cannot find a shop to do it let me know and I will look up his name.

I have the AeroSafe system. About a month ago my vacuum pump failed on a trip to Oregon. It was VFR so I waited till I got home to fix it. I ran it for about 10 hours in two days. Even though I test it on every flight, I have never used it before. After about 10 minuets it blew its circuit breaker. I waited till my gyros spun down and then turned it on again. It lasted about 10 minuets and then blew the breaker again. I reset it one more time and then it worked perfectly for the rest of the trip. I think it should be exercised more often then turning it on for a few seconds every flight. Running it for 1/2 hour every six months would probably keep it loosened up. I'm also thinking, that next time I change vacuum pumps, I'll put the new one on the standby system and put the one from the standby system on the engine.

Peanut M&Ms beef jerky and Pringles. Bananas are always good.

My plane did the same thing, but more so on the left tank. I put new orings in the fuel selector and it is ok now

I have not been able to configure the aircraft/pilot/passenger to accomplish this maneuver. Any insight would be helpful.

I do all my stalls to the break and then recover. I've never had it spin. It is a good way to check the rigging of your plane. If the flap up stops are unequal, it will roll over quite violently in a power on stall.

Fair enough. If the cowl you bought was as screwed up as mine when I started it could be that much. I lost count of how much time I spent on it. It took most of my spare time for two months. I was talking about a 201 cowl that hadn't been butchered by mechanics that don't know how to read a service manual. And Antimony trioxide (fire proof epoxy additive) is kind of hard to come by. I found someone on EBAY who sold me a pound for $20.00.

I think you are high on the cowl repair. I completely rebuilt my cowl. Most of the work was replacing the previous repair jobs which were done with polyester resin instead of epoxy. I believe the cowl mods for the M20 Turbo installation along with normal repairs and paint could be done in 40 hours or less @ $75/Hr. = $3000. Materials should be about $350.00 Far less then the $10,000 you quote. I think your prices on welding are a bit high.

If you have an old steam gauge panel (this probably won't work with a glass panel). While flying at night at 10000 or above, take off the oxygen and keep turning down the panel lights until you can just barely see the panel. Let your eyes adjust and then turn them down again. Now put on the oxygen. It is amazing!

I have a Nonin Onyx. I try to keep my SPO2 above 90%. Your body will try to keep your O2 level where it wants it by moving more blood through your lungs, thus the higher pulse rate. You can increase your SP02 by about 5% by the way you breathe. If you push as much air as possible out of your lungs when you exhale, and fill your lungs as deeply as possible when you inhale, it is like free oxygen. You need to do this a bit slower then your normal breathing rate. If you are on a long trip and are bored, put on the Pulse Ox and see how high you can get it...

OK, stop saying bad things about the Tomahawk. I learned to fly in the PA-38. Even before I got my license I was doing long cross countries in it for business travel. I used to run over to my instructors place of business for endorsements for the cross countries. And after I got my license I flew it everywhere. One day I logged 9.5 hours in it. From Phoenix I flew it as far east as Albuquerque, west to L. A. north to Salt Lake City. My instructor made me spin it for every lesson. Two years later I bought my first Mooney an M20F because my instructor said if he could buy any plane it would be a Mooney Executive.

FWIW If you are instrument rated you should be able to do all these stalls under the hood at night. If you can't, I wouldn't fly IFR or at night. Besides it is kind of fun.

A week after I bought this Mooney I needed a BFR. We did the BFR at night. The first stall the plane almost snap rolled. I told the instructor that we were done doing stalls. He was good with that. I adjusted the rigging and now it stalls straight ahead, like it should.

I don't think any of these oils will hurt your engine if you fly regularly and change the oil every couple of months. If your engine sits inactive for long periods in cold and humid conditions it might matter. We are lucky here in Arizona, nothing rusts.

I have used W100 in my planes for the past 30 years. I change to 15W50 if I'm going somewhere cold in the winter so I can start the plane.

A Mooney is like a Brietling a arrow is like a Timex. They both tell time, but which one do you want to show your friends?

I was in Oshkosh in 95 or so and watched Roy Lopresti do a complete aerobatic routine in a Mooney..

I wonder what is safer? Looking out the window for traffic, or looking at a computer screen for traffic...

My M20F would roll when I was 28 years old. Now that I'm 56 I don't think it will anymore.

FWIW If the switch is intermittent, pull the button off and spray a generous amount of tri-flo into the switch. Work the switch a bunch of times and then wipe off the excess tri-flo. It will probably fix the switch and save you a bunch of trouble.

At Casper Air Service they had 6 inch pipes filled with concrete with sections of car tires bolted to them for door stops on their ramp side doors. The owner said that it was the only thing they came up with to keep the doors from breaking when people opened them on windy days.

The software on the ground side could easily send unsolicited traffic data every XX seconds that it hasn't had a specific request for traffic. It seems like unsolicited traffic would be more important then weather. Traffic changes much faster then weather. I'm sure there have been many meetings at the FAA arguing about these things. As a software developer I learned long ago, no matter how cool you think your software is, if your customer doesn't use it as you intended then you need to change it to the way the customer uses it, no matter how stupid you think the customer is.

I always stand next to the prop when I'm moving it, and just move it by the prop tip. That way if the engine pops I can get my hand out of the way before the prop comes around. When moving the prop on a hot engine always assume it will start and be happy when it doesn't.