N201MKTurbo

People are always criticizing our ancient aircraft engines, but the main design goal is reliability. This just goes to prove how good out engines really are. Even with this catastrophic failure, it got you home.

I would take a look at your ring gear. The teeth are probably messed up. You can clean them up with a file or a Dremel. If you have a SkyTec LS starter, it won’t spin till the bendix is fully engaged. If the bendix teeth will not engage with the ring gear, it won’t spin. If that is the case, you can dress out the burrs on the ring gear, or replace the ring gear.

Rig them per the maintenance manual. Its possible you have a broken spring in one of your bungees.

It’s in the belly almost dead center between the wheels

I would have to say it is maintenance induced. You can see from the picture there is a crack at the set screw and the area of the yoke where the nut is on the taper pin is deformed inward. These are both signs of over tightening.

KFFZ 1400 feet.

The engineering would be figuring out the required forces, the forces a big human could impart on it during any crazy maneuver and then do an analysis on the new yoke and make sure it is strong enough. If it was the same size, you would be good with that. Once you made a model of it, you could do FEA on it to make sure it is strong enough. I would check part 23 and see if there are any requirements or guidance for yoke design.

Somebody doing the paperwork. Why don't you start it? You might get some help from ACS if they can sell a bunch of yokes. I can't see the FAA having an issue with this STC. The engineering would be easy. There would need to be a PMA also. You may be able to do it without an STC if you can get a PMA for an equivalent for the Mooney part number. I would call the nice lady at the MIDO and ask her what she thinks.

Here is the "h" you lost. In My 67 F the plastic wasn't painted, and the metal was bare. My J is painted, but it was repainted before I got it. They may have painted it.

Humm, there is usually paint there, maybe the wipes worked too good....

that’s what I did first. It got all the liquid oil off. The baked on crud is taking a lot of elbow grease.

I asked the FAA man about wheel bearings once. He said they need to be inspected along with the wheels. You cannot inspect them properly without cleaning them. After you inspect them, you need to repack them.

That is the copilots yoke. They rarely get used. Why would they fail? And who cares?

I know the capabilities of everyone I work with. I will not assign them any tasks they are not competent to do. I always inspect the results of their work. The FAA doesn't have the manpower to watch me watching someone else work. The chance of the FAA discovering that you don't have your eyeballs on somebody are about as close to zero as your chance of winning the Power Ball.

Maybe the cylinders were not cleaned properly after honing.

All I do is owner assisted annuals or working with another A&P who is not an IA. It is a lot easier working with another A&P because I don’t have to supervise the work. In either case I’m required to do all the inspections. This has caused issues with a few A&Ps. I showed up one day to do inspections and the wheels were back on the plane. I said I need to inspect the wheel bearings. The A&P said he already cleaned and repacked them and he said the bearings were fine. He said he was qualified to do all that. I told him that that is all true, but for me to sign off the inspection, I have to inspect them. He got really pissed, but he finally relented and took them back apart.

The paint is pretty good under the crud. It did a good job of preserving it. Probably better than that new fangled ceramic stuff. It doesn’t look quite as good.

Unleaded will increase the oil change interval because there is less contamination from the lead bromide. If you have good rings and little blowby, it doesn't matter. The lead is still supplied as Ethyl Fluid which has following stuff: Tetraethyllead was supplied for blending with raw gasoline in the form of "Ethyl Fluid", which blended tetraethyllead with the lead scavengers 1,2-dibromoethane and 1,2-dichloroethane. Ethyl fluid contained a dye which would distinguish treated gasoline from untreated gasoline and discourage the diversion of gasoline for other purposes, such as cleaning.

Avgas ages well because it is mostly a single substance, alkylate. MOGAS is a witches brew of many things with different volatilities. They evaporate at different rates, so it changes composition as it ages. Some of the ingredients will oxidize and change composition. When AVGAS ages, it just evaporates but doesn’t change composition.

How about 30 years of grease, exhaust and dirt mixture? It is caked around rivets and seems.

No, the Avidyne is in the Mooney. The Cessna has a GNS420.

I bought my 40:1 gears in 05 they were about $250. I bet they will be way more than that if you can ever get them.

I paid less for the Cessna than I did for my Avidyne…

It’s getting there.

Not effortless on my gunk, It is cutting through it. It is taking three applications with scrubbing to get it off. The alcohol seems to do more than the limonene, but it evaporates in about 20 seconds and you are left with the limonene.