N201MKTurbo

It works much better if you have two. Phoenix has two. One on the east end of the airport and one on the west end. They use one for northbound traffic and one for southbound. Usually north on the west, but I have gone both directions on both transitions. Although they have defined entry and exit points, all they care about is you cross just beyond the numbers on the two ends and are generally going north and south. And in true Arizona tradition both entry and exit points are golf courses.

If I recall, the VFR corridors across KPHX were established when it became a class B from a TCA. If not it was about the same time. I have probably used the corridors a few hundred times. I have never been denied access. So there is a caveat. I was doing an operation rain check and some bozo had no idea what he was doing. they told him to leave the class B (and never come back). So if you have the slightest idea how to fly and talk on the radio. they will let you in.

I bought a box of floor sweepings from an aircraft factory once on EBay. I have enough -005 bushings to last me many lifetimes. I just cut a piece off and file it square. The ones I have are about 1.5" long. You can grind them close to the desired length by getting a 3/16 threaded rod or bolt and put a double nut or locknut on the rod and use it to support the bushing while grinding.

On closer examination of your picture, your magnet may have both plates stacked on one side of the magnet. If that is the case, take it apart and put it together right. The drawing from the manual shows the two plates correctly.

Those cabinet latching magnets require two plates to function properly. I think you are missing one of the plates. They require two plates to complete the magnetic circuit from north to South Pole on the magnet. Go to the hardware store and buy a magnet to harvest a new set of plates and consider replacing the striker bar while you are at it.

Ok, you called me out. It was back in the 80s when I was flying about 4 hours every day. The landing was in Laramie WY in the winter. The east west runway was closed. The wind was closer to 60 KTS right down the closed runway. I was listening to a Beech 99 trying to take off. They had aborted 3 attempts. I landed and must have shamed them because they made the next takeoff. With that much wind your ground speed is very low on touchdown, practically stopped. I lined up on a 45 to the runway, touched down on the edge of the runway and was stopped by the centerline. Taxiing in was very dicey. It took me 10 minutes to taxi in. When I got to the tie down the plane would start to move backwards if I throttled back. I called the FBO and they came out and tied me down with the engine running to hold position.

You could have saved a lot of money if Brian K had repaired them according to the maintenance manual.

Actually, if you lube the seals with DC4, you can get the springs to line up and click together with the tabs pointing up, then you can rotate the springs and the tubes till the spring tabs point to the other tube.

The pushrod springs on the Lycomings are not their best ideas…

Perseverance and bloody fingers.

You should have a few spares of those. You can see some have already been replaced because some are straight and some are Phillips. I kind of like the straight blade fasteners because you can tell if they are fastened properly by looking at the slot, but the Phillips are easier to put in. As for the part number, it is the time in your airplane ownership journey that you learned to use the IPC.

The impulse coupling is a simple mechanism. I would just pull the mag and look at it. One thing you can check without pulling the mag, is just pull the prop through and see if it still snaps. If it doesn’t you could have a broken spring or the post fell out.

I’ve landed at Grand Canyon Caverns and spent a few days there. I was hiking to Havasu falls. I parked in front of the hotel. The tie downs take up 3 parking spaces. The runway is very long. I ended up taxiing 3/4 of the length. Which is probably harder on the plane than landing or taking off.

Who cares. At your run up, lean to max RPM, then richen 100 RPM or so. Watch your CHTs on climb and if they are hotter then you like, richen a bit.

My most extreme flight was a flight from Phoenix to Oakland CA 4.5 there 1.75 home.

Aviation oils are AD (ashless dispersant) oils. Auto oils are not meant to be burned. They know that aircraft engines burn oil. Auto oils have an additive package that contains metals (zlnc) and other additives that will leave ash deposits when burned. These ash deposits can build up-in your combustion chambers and exhaust valve stems. These deposits can cause stuck valves and pre ignition. Most of the deposits in our cylinders are from our fuel, an amaglum of lead bromide, carbon and lead oxide. Some of the lead oxide can get reduced to pure lead, which you can see as shiny balls in your spark plugs. The shiny lead is a thin layer over the lead oxide. You can see that if you bust up one of the balls.

Don’t get too excited about the tailwinds. You have to come home sometime.

If they don’t work, just throwing them in a can of solvent, working them till they are free and letting the solvent evaporate will work as good as anything.

It is hard to imagine how the flammability of 5606 is a concern for us. We don’t have a constantly pressurized hydraulic system with 10s of gallons of fluid in them that runs near and through our engine compartments. We have maybe 2 cups of unpressurized fluid that is nowhere near any ignition sorce. Have you ever tried to light 5606? The only way to get it to sustain a flame is to use a wick. A rag soaked in 5606 will burn, but not very agressively. Here is some trivia, the low flammable hydraulic fluids were not developed for aircraft use. The army used 5606 in its tanks to rotate the turrets and raise the guns. If a hydraulic line got hit by a bullet or shrapnel it would make a high pressure mist of 5606, not a good day for the crew. They tested the fluids by shooting containers of hydraulic fluid with incendiary rounds..

If you think you have a fuel issue, remove the air filter, spray about 10 seconds of starting fluid in there and crank it. If it fires off and runs for a few seconds, you have a fuel problem.

I have fixed a few of these. It is almost certainly the nose gear actuator rods. At some point, somebody tried to fix the preloads. They fixed it alright. Those rods need to be precisely adjusted. It isn’t hard if you know what you are doing, but if you don’t, you can screw them up royally in short order. When properly adjusted you can work the J bar with your fingertips.

You should check the level and top it off if low. You need to use 5606 hydraulic fluid. Buy a pump oil can and some clear tubing to stick on it. Stick the tubing in it and pump till it is full. Monitoring its level will give you a good indicator of your brake health.

At least every decade. Sadly that’s not always the case. It seems like every Mooney I lube for the first time, I find a rod end or bearing that hasn’t been lubed since it left the factory.

Should be. Doesn’t mean it was.

I had an old gray beard pilot tell me how to break vertigo. It sounded silly until one night I got the spins. I tried his method and it is solid. It completely cured it. When you get the spins, close your eyes, tilt your head back as far as possible, then whack yourself as hard as you can in your forehead then tilt your head down and open your eyes looking at your AI. Remember this. You will need it some day and you will thank the old guy.