tls pilot

My first post on the new Gill LT Sealed Battery 7243-14 was in June 2015 (it was in the Bravo Forum) These batteries perform extremely well and have provided me with excellent service. Far better than the wet G243 or the first Gill sealed battery. We gave reports on a yearly or so basis on that same post. Today (August 2020), the batteries are still installed in the aircraft, performing well on starts and capacity checks. Please keep in mind these are the 24 volt batteries, 14Ah sealed Gill LT. (7243-14) In my experience, Most 12 volt batteries will last and perform longer than the bigger 24 volt batteries. Thus far, I am pleased with the 24 volt Gill LT 7243-14 batteries. As a side note, Gill has introduced a new “super capacity” LT sealed 7243-16 battery (16Ah). I have no experience with the -16 (7243-16).

To the posts who ask No I do not work for Gill, never have worked for Gill. Just reporting my findings. In my case, The battery 7243, is sealed. The manifold or venting is only used since that is how the battery box tray is in the plane. What I do know is the life I have gotten out of my 7243 batteries Not sure why certain folks on this site need to disparage or question people who write an honest review? If folks like Concord use it, my experience w the NEW Gill Batteries has been superb. Just reporting... IF you have not had a new Gill Battery LT type you do not have the experience to judge. Certainly you can reflect on past products and make a judgement but you are not fully informed since you have not used the new product Lastly here is a great link to explain battery capacity. Jerry 5TJ is correct this will add to the discussion https://www.pveducation.org/pvcdrom/battery-characteristics/battery-capacity Happy flying to all

if you need a new battery after testing Best thing to do is buy a new Gill Battery 7035-28 if 12 Volt or 7243-14 if 24 volt The new sealed Gill Batteries truly perform and last unlike the old non sealed ones

Don and Irish Pilot Was your engine recently overhauled? If so by whom? I experienced similar readings: loss of oil pressure every 1000 feet, oil pressure reached the yellow 57psi at FL 130 We changed the spring and adjusted the nut. Like you have reported -it increases the oil pressure at sea level and while it gets you some additional psi it really does not solve the problem After spending a great deal of time w Lycoming and the engine OH shop I proved that earlier engines did Not lose oil pressure as one climbed. Proved by detailed pics and data. I have a direct reading (analog) Scott gauge and the usual ships oil pressure transducer driven gauge Thus an argument that it was an indicator issue was not valid You can have analog or digital, the oil pressure should Not be in the yellow. In the end, Lycoming determined that the wet heads on the AF1B do not do well with the new parabolic Tappets/lifters Engine removed and brought back to the shop, old style tappets/lifters installed. Problem solved I can climb from sea level to FL240 and my oil pressure does not indicate in the yellow, clearly in the green, Oil pressure loss on climb is minimal as it was in previous engines Lastly, setting the density altitude controller should be done by the approved procedure noted by Lycoming. While I personally saw Mooney set it up without the thermocouple, it can be done but one needs experience and must factor in ambient field temp etc.

Just wondering... While the C2V3 appears to be the one to use What makes it different than Mothers at $17.23 at Walmart or an auto store? https://mothers.com/products/cmx-ceramic-spray-coating-01024 or any of these tested and top rated sprays? Which are less than the Mothers cost above... https://www.autoguide.com/top-10-best-ceramic-coatings-and-detailing-products

the Lycoming factory in Williamsport is shut down for three weeks and may be extended This could add to the wait

Try Plane Exhaust 1-866-312-4122

Without any reservation, use the new sealed Gill 7243-14 We have used this new Gill sealed battery and have had great success with it over 4 years now. We reported on it when the battery came out and made annual reports see Battery Power -the new Gill sealed battery 7243-14 (post made in 2015) Please note the forum here seems to not like Gill Batteries Perhaps based on the old wet Gill Battery Not certain how many have tried the new sealed 7243s They have great cranking power and have stood up to hot and cold weather starts

Last flight the cowl flaps went inop. At destination we noted that the cowl flap were open and could be pushed up(closed) w one finger and little to no force. Both cowl flaps closed at same time. Took the cowling off for a look at the cowl flap motor and linkage. The cowl flap motor runs in both directions. The roll pin sheared on the cowl flap motor, the drive shaft is intact. Getting the sheared pin out of the hole in the drive shaft will be the tricky part. Question: How do the limit switches work? Without the pin attached to the linkage the cowl flap motor will operate in either position up or down and will not stop unless switch is put in the trailing position ( middle ). With pin off and linkage NOT attached to cowl flap drive shaft, we can push up on flaps and have switch to closed position, the motor will run and run same on the open side. Leads one to believe the pin must be connected to allow the limit switches?? What makes the limit switch work? Want to make certain the new pin does not shear due to a limit switch. Anyone with direct experience on this issue, please comment. Currently at a very small rural airport without any resources. Obviously could fly the plane as we did coming here over 4hrs. The flaps must find a trailing position due to prop airflow forces (close the flaps)and inside cowl forces (opens the flaps). Just do not want flutter on the flaps and then further damage.... Thanks

Mooney Ceasing Production Closes Kerrville Plant, furloughs hundreds of employees Plane & Pilot Published November 12, 2019 3K The Mooney factory assembly line in Kerrville, Texas. Courtesy of Mooney International The Kerrville Daily Times is reporting that Mooney International has ceased manufacturing operations at its Kerrville Airport factory at Kerrville Municipal Airport (KERV), Texas. In the move, a company spokesman said, the company laid off 229 employees, bringing Mooney employment down to around 90 workers. None will be producing aircraft parts, however, which is certain to concern Mooney owners. At the same time the company, which is owned by the Chinese investment company Soaring American Corporation, says the move is “temporary” and that it will restart production when the market for its singles returns, though prospects for that don’t look promising. Despite best-in-class performance, a recently updated design that includes larger windows and a second, pilot-side entry door, the aircraft have sold poorly even at a time when sales of some competitors’ planes have held steady or surged. The company had operated research and product development facilities in Southern California until 2017, when it closed that facility and relocated all operations to Kerrville. Mooney was founded in the 1920s by the Mooney Brothers, produced planes in Wichita, Kansas, for a time and moved to Kerrville in 1953. Since then the company has changed hands 11 times by our count.

Davidv Your gauges are most likely Sigma Tek A family operated place in Lock Haven PA Keystone Instruments 570- 748-7083has the test equipment and can calibrate They come out of the panel very easily w one phillips screw IF your senders are good, it usually is the POT on the Sigma Tek. Sometimes it is just an adjustment others may require a new pot.

Best place is Keystone Instruments in Lock Haven PA 570-748-7083 Family run business, very fair, honest, fast turn around. Ask for Ken or Pam keystoneinstruments.com

Steve Hartwell. Dogbone Aviation at KCGZ very trusting and fine work

https://www.lycoming.com/sites/default/files/SI1498B%20-Recommended%20Engine%20Procedures%20for%20Purge%20of%20Vapor%20during%20Ground%20Operations.pdf

Lance Mine is installed in the front Not sure why Jaime's mechanic installed that probe in the spot you show With mine in the front, the oil temps are nearly exact in all conditions

Jose You have set out a great scenario regarding hotel rooms.....!!!!!

Please check out the Bravo Oil Pressure post and the Low Oil Pressure post

I looked for any earlier topics on this issue, I could not locate them. What is the correct fitting required for a transfill, the fitting on the Mooney( the O2 fill behind the door) and whatever is needed if you have your own tank to fill from. Where is the best place to find these ditting and lines at a fair price? Thanks in advance.

Ron Please refer to one of my first posts in Oct 2014. The issue remained into early 2015 for my engine. see post.... Bravo Oil Pressure By tls pilot, October 9, 2014 in Mooney Bravo Owners after reading old post, a few thoughts.... I do not recall when you purchased your reman from Lycoming. But it seems like it was around 2015 when they were finally figuring out my issue. Is your issue decreasing oil pressure as you climb? and Then as you decrease altitude the oil pressure increases? In my case the issue was easily documented since I have dual oil pressure guages, the ships transducer guage and a direct reading Scott. As well, I have two oil temp guages, the ships and a JPI. Once the engine was installed, the oil pressure difference was related to altitude. See the original post, basically, the higher I went the lower the oil pressure. It was a consistent decrease in oil pressure on climb until I reached FL 140 where the oil pressure went into the yellow. At that point, I did not go higher. I documented the incremental oil pressure loss with a spreadsheet and pics. Noting the readings on both pressure guages and the oil temps. Lycoming suggested adjusting the oil relief valve, an easy task on our engine, no need for washers, ( you can also het a stiffer spring, purple or white?) use a 9/16 th wrench on the aft cylinder in front of the oil cooler. The problem is this is NOT the fix. It only allowed me to climb to FL 170 vs FL 140 before the oil pressure went into the yellow. No real fix... At least in my case it was not a fix. If your oil pressure is decreasing with each 1000 feet as you climb, it may be the same issue I had. Lycoming is and was clearly aware that the new lifters (tappets), parabolic ones, used in our TIO540AF1B was not allowing proper oil pressure especially once we got into the FLs. Apparently due to our oilers and the ability of the oil pump? It is a practice that was stopped sometime in 2015 or early 2016, with Lycoming only using straight tappets. In my case, after flying the reman engine for 21 hrs, the engine was pulled and rebuilt w another new camshaft and new tappets, the original design type. After that, I can fly up to FL240 without any oil pressure drop. It certainly fixed the issue. No sense having an engine and plane that can fly at FL240 but you need to fly with the oil pressure in the red or yellow.... IF you have the same data of oil pressure loss w altitude increase, I suggest you call Lycoming and ask very specific questions as to what tappets were used in your install. Obviously, there are other issues that may cause a drop in oil pressure; Boyles law and oil temps, the turbo system, and prop governor. Good luck.

Here is a good source and with the CN dollar low, prices good These folks are very knowledgable

F The oil pressure issue is a concern. A few years ago Lycoming and OH shops started using parabolic shaped lifters. In my case, normal oil pressure at or near sea level, then a loss of oil pressure every 1000 feet. Above FL 150, oil pressure was near the yellow line. The oil temp (Boyles Law is a factor). But in the case of these lifters being used, that is the issue. Shops will tell you it is a oil pressure indicator issue, but I have a direct reading line and the ships transducer. Even with the one gauge you have it sounds like a lifter issue. You need to find out from the shop what lifters were used. Lycoming has stopped using these on our engines. A TLS Bravo is not being useful and a bad choice of planes if not able to be flown above FL150 up to 240! Also see Beech Talk with same issue https://www.beechtalk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=90490&start=15 The MP issue seems low and is easily adjusted depening on ambient temp. I would look at fuel flow on takeoff and see what the burn rate is, it should be 29-32gph

Any suggestions how to easily tighten the mixture control nut? I can only get a finger on the back (behind the panel) nut while attempting to tighten the front nut. The cable wants to turn with the front nut. I would appreciate any suggestions, especially since I fly again tomorrow. I took the side panel off, co pilots side, near the mixture control. But the tubular structure makes it difficult to get to the rear nut

Peter Not an uncommon issue w the TLS/Bravo Best to have someone look for fuel running out of the one of the two rubber hoses that extend thru the front lower cowl on co pilots side very near the cowl flap, while engine is running. If it is dripping or running out of one of those tubes, your fuel pump most likely has an issue. The cost you quoted is high! Check Quality for an exchange unit of $1295.00 IF they have one on the shelf. http://www.qaa.com/products/aircraft-fuel-pumps-1/lear-romec-fuel-pumps/RG17980U-M-lear-romec-fuel-pump

call Edison at Wet Wing in FXE