A64Pilot

In Eric Hartman’s book when they were about to be overrun by the Russian’s, he took out his radio from behind the seat and put his mechanic in its place and flew West. Not sure how big and heavy the radio was but it certainly wasn’t small.

I have a old 76a, so grey code only, nothing more modern than a 430W, I like my old HSI much better than a G5 personally. I flew a neighbor’s V35 and it had G 5’s and to me the display was just too busy, but they are a lot of bang for the buck only a fraction of what an HSI costs ‘I may go with a Garmin 327 as I have one in my other airplane and it’s serial of course, but more money. ‘Money is an issue, I just bought the airplane and I’m retired

Some are, the old ones usually were, they inferred fuel flow from pressure. ‘However more modern better fuel flow indicators actually measure fuel flow with a paddle wheel, and flow does not necessarily indicate pressure. Then there is the small problem of fuel pressure indicators indicate the pressure of fuel supplied to the injection system, they measure the output pressure of the fuel pump. They exist to warn you of fuel pump failure, not the fuel pressure in the injector system. ‘However the old type of fuel flow indicators measure the fuel pressure in the injection system and by doing that indicate fuel flow, but you dont know pump pressure.

I am not sure about an Ovation, you will have to look, but seat belt extenders are sold on Amazon for almost no money. ‘They are Airline extenders and apparently there are two type of belts on Airlines, but as they are less than $10,just buy both types

I have an 81 J model that has an aero mechanical encoding altimeter, logbook says it was replaced with an overhauled one in 06. My encoder CB is popping making me think the encoder in the altimeter is bad. Should I just buy another altimeter with an 8130 and change it out (I’m am A&P) or bail on the altimeter and take it to an avionics shop and have a blind encoder installed? Price is about the same, except for the install of the blind encoder which I’d guess is about $300? So altimeter about $300, or encoder is double about $600. ‘I guess what I’m asking is, is an overhauled altimeter going to last or will it break again soon, what’s the reliability of one? I know blind encoders seem to last along time Last question, it appears at first glance that the instrument panel face is removable, is it? Sure would make life easier if it is.

As far as removing cylinders and changing tappets, I’m pretty sure due to their design that flat tappets require the cases to be split. If your splitting cases, go ahead and overhaul, an overhaul does not require good parts to be replaced, a Lycoming SB does. ‘But odds are that if your splitting the cases your doing the work of an overhaul anyway. ‘An A&P is doing the work correct?

Assuming this is for real and not a troll. If the mission is to fly from Fl to the Bahamas and you want to carry a lot of “stuff” a Cherokee 6 is tough to beat. Face it Fl to anywhere in the Bahamas is a short trip so speed and efficiency isn’t as important, and nothing will carry more for less money than a Cherokee 6

I’m sorry to hear about the dog, it’s too bad that we can’t be that way with people.

Many years ago the lawnmower would start, my Grandmother told me to take the pug out and put gasoline on it and reinstall it and it would start. ‘I told her that will likely work, but how in the world do you know that? She told me that is what she had to do to get the washing machine to run. So the Maytag may have had a gasoline engine.

I’m not sure something from amazon, just looked it up it’s unavailable. ‘It’s actually a 50 pint and I bought it in 2016 to put in our boat, since then they are rated differently now so my 50 is likely a 30 now.’ But you can get a 70 for about $300, be sure to get one that you can connect a hose to or the internal bucket will fill up twice a day. ‘If needed there are some with pumps that can pump uphill, I just drilled a hole in the wall and ran the drain hose out that way. The 50 is working for me, but a 70 would work better

I’ve been self insured for a longtime,but bought insurence for the Mooney, and the Broker is telling everyone to keep their FAA medical as insurence companies won’t accept basic med for pilots over 75. I don’t understand the logic of an FAA medical until you have to have one, why maintain one prior to then? Insurence has always been what determined level of pilot training etc, it’s never really been the FAA, nothing has changed there

A few in my neighborhood have installed HVAC, and has been said without insulation it’s not going to do much good, the R rating for concrete block for instance is about 1. a house wall is about 14? Having said that I have a dehumidifier running in my hanger as we speak. it’s 3,000 sq ft with a 14’ ceiling and really does make a difference, it pulls about 5 gls of water a day out of the air. ‘This summer when and if funds allow I’ll install a DIY two ton mini split, it won’t really cool the hanger, but it ought to dehumidify. ‘My hanger ceiling is sheetrocked, and the “mud” from the taping is falling off, from the humidity, and you know if it’s humid enough for that, it’s humid enough for corrosion. The dehumidifier stopped the mud from falling The 70 pint dehumidifier costs about $2 a day to operate, if it runs 24/7 which it doesn’t, you can set the relative humidity that it turns off at. 750W x 24 = 18KWH a day x .11c a KWH = $1.98 a day

This is where I bought it, $28 and “free” shipping, two things surprised me, first they shipped the day I ordered it, second they shipped UPS and sent me the tracking number. https://jjautofabrics.com/search.php?page=1&section=product&search_query=windlace I think I’ll buy from these guys again. ‘I hope it won’t take but an hour or so, pulling the plastic may take at least that long. Right now I’m buffing, my knees are shot from arthritis so all I got done today was the horizontal, tomorrow I’ll go for left wing, day after right. I can’t stand but for maybe an hour, that’s about it. ‘In my 20’s I could have done the whole airplane by lunch

Those Weldon pumps only last about 300 hours in operation before the brushes wear out. They were reportedly working on a brushless motor but by the time of my retirement they hadn’t come out. (three years ago) I suspect they may never go brushless, but if they did that would pretty much eliminate motor wear as the life limit and make it pump wear, which seems to be minimal. So how many years does it take to accumulate 300 hours at maybe 10 min per flight? The pumps used on an S2R-H80 appear to be almost identical. http://www.kathrynsreport.com/2019/09/loss-of-engine-power-total-thrush-s2r.html Oh, and the pump in that accident was a red herring, it had nothing to do with the accident.

jlunseth, A very good dissertation, I assume you have a Law background? I was. trying to point out, I guess rather poorly that I’ve seen compliance with an AC in an enforcement action used against a person based on they are advisory only and not a reg. It is a catch 22, and one that I’m certain that is intentional. I’ve been pushed into compliance with an AC during a aircraft certification even when it disagrees with the reg. Then there are the catch all’s too of course, like operating in an unsafe manner, you weren’t in violation of anything but they can still “get” you. My favorite is your certifying a CAR 3 airplane, but the FAA has a reg that states that they can make you comply with FAR 23 if doing so will materially improve safety, that’s a judgement call by the way, one that will very from day to day. Then you understand why the big boys have ODA’s The FAA was at onetime trying to make manufacturers come up with MEL’s, which is pretty easy to justify, for instance 91.205 doesn’t say fuel boost pump, so can we fly without one? Those of us that are fuel injected. Of course not because the checklist requires it to be on for certain phases of flight, but the FAA wants it to be a little more obvious than that I guess. The regs get more interesting with older aircraft, for instance my 1946 Cessna 140 doesn’t have a POH, so how do you comply with the requirement of carrying a POH in the aircraft?

It may be that AS in Europe has it, but the US Spruce doesn’t?

When talking about electrical fires you really open up a can of worms. PVC/Nylon wire which was discontinued I believe in 1972 is about he only wire used in our category of aircraft that will actually burn, however nylon wire ties will burn rather well and in my opinion should never be used, they also will break wires, wires should be laced not tied. Brings us to clamps used for bundles of wires, the ones with black rubber, I believe the rubber will burn, the ones with thinner white covering won’t I don’t think. CAR 3 burn standards are rather “loose” so in truth if your concerned about furnishings burning, you need to replace all of the furnishing in the aircraft with something that meets FAR 23 standards Hopefully we don’t have any Kapton wire, I’ve looked and didn’t see any in my airplane, but of course couldn’t look everywhere. Kapton is easy to spot, it’s a reddish / amber color, not white, if there you can’t miss it. If fires concern you, and they should, get a good Halon fire extinguisher, don’t cheap out with a dry chemical one, discharge a dry chemical one in a cockpit and you won’t be able to see or breathe. If your an environmentalist and are against Halon, there is Halotron, not as good as Halon, but better than nothing. I don’t know if it’s approved, maybe only Halon is. Many countries have outlawed Halon, I don’t know what they do. I was going to start a thread on where to mount a fire extinguisher on a Mooney, considering it needs to be mounted in a place that the pilot can get to it while flying, other aircraft I’ve mounted one either between or in front of the pilots seat, neither seems to be viable in a Mooney, so I don’t really know where to mount one. As a kid I was trapped under a farm tractor and burnt down my shoulder and back from hydraulic fluid, plus I was sure that it was going to burn as the battery shorted against the hood of the tractor and burned through the steel and fuel was draining out over everything so I’m afraid of fires more than the average person. But I’m not worried about the windlace, especially when the one the airplane came with is fabric covered cardboard, sure the cardboard could have been treated who knows?

I know burn certs aren’t hard to find or all that expensive to have certified, However people are often told by many that you must have burn certs and for that reason you must buy our aircraft interior, even though the local guy who does classic cars can do much better for less, you can’t use his interior, it’s not certified. So they end up an overpriced cheap interior. ‘A CAR 3 airplane only has to have burn certs for those compartments where smoking is allowed, if smoking isn’t allowed, no burn certs are required. ‘You also must supply ash trays in the compt if smoking is allowed too, so if you have removed ash trays, you should placard the aircraft No Smoking. If memory serves these had to be a particular type of ashtray too, I think they had to have a lid so a cigarette would smother, but not certain. Where I worked we built new aircraft that had no ash trays and the interior materials had not been burn certified because we placarded the aircraft No Smoking.

I still have a Sailrite sewing machine and I think the foot you speak of, but I just bought some already made, I’m not checked out on the sewing machine ‘I expected someone to bring up burn certs, as this is a CAR3 airplane I’ll just placard it No Smoking, I wouldn’t allow that anyway.

Just looking at it, it appears to be a small job, except it seems the interior plastic needs to be removed, then I believe it’s simply screwed into the door mold with small PK screws. ‘I’ll know in a week or two anyway

Ordered 4 yds of cloth windlace for $28. Seems to be a simple job, original was cloth covered cardboard, maybe 3/8”? What I ordered is cloth covered foam, 1/2” . Half inch seems to be the common size. Maybe 41 years ago the cardboard was 1/2” who knows? I have an inflatable door seal, it seems to work excellent, and I don’t inflate it and as far as I can tell, no wind noise.

What is the purpose of this? Is there a replacement available? Has anyone simply removed it, I can’t see a purpose except maybe to cover the opening appearance wise? Mine looks bad is broken and torn etc, I’d like to replace it if possible or just remove it if there are no replacements available.

If I had to buy one, I would buy LED, and of course delete the strobe power supply and save that weight and money

He is a Havamalt, it’s a “designer” breed, half Maltese, half Havanese. We were living on a sailboat when we bought him a year or so ago and he doesn’t shed, which is a desirable trait in small quarters. His name is Mikey How are you rotating the photo’s?

It’s not in their current catalog, so I called and they couldn’t find it either, so it may no longer exist, at least not at Spruce