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PT20J

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Everything posted by PT20J

  1. The cover is held in place by two screws at the top and two at the bottom. You have to access them from the rear. I used a right angle ratcheting screwdriver. The screw holes in my panel were slotted so I could just loosen the screws and then slide the panel out from the front. There’s nothing behind the panel, so if you want to make a storage area you’d have to make a box of some sort, but you could use the same four screws to attach it. The space is several inches deep.
  2. The voltage measured is going to depend to some extent on where you measure it. I would verify the EDM voltage by using a DVM and I would measure it at the voltage regulator sense input since that is the voltage that the regulator is controlling. Here’s the service manual section on voltage adjustments.
  3. You are correct. The ammeter only shows that current is being supplied by the wire that runs to the battery. It cannot differentiate between current supplied by the charger and current supplied by the battery. Eric is also correct. The voltage shown on the G3X will be higher when running on the charger than on the battery. The 24V listed for the charger is a nominal value. The actual voltage will depend on the charger mode of operation. I get about -4A with just the master on which powers the G3X.
  4. Part numbers are 154-12000 mains and 154-13100 for the nose wheel. PRM95-Molded-Bearing-Seal-6-inch.pdf PRM100-Molded-Bearing-Seal-5-inch.pdf
  5. From the service manual it looks like .025 2024 T-3
  6. Nutplates wear out. If the screws lose torque, I might consider replacing the nutplates.
  7. THIS^^^. Most people over tighten screws. The nutplates have an interference fit that retains the screws. Phillips screws cam out if over tightened..
  8. Byron @jetdriven did a really nice installation of his carpets using snaps to make them easily removable. That would probably be a neat way to do the mats. I believe he got the snaps from sailrite.com.
  9. Do you have a schematic for your serial number? -- it will show the voltage regulator connections. I think all the IAI annunciators have an overvoltage input that comes from the voltage regulator and is activated when the overvoltage protector trips. Since the OVP is located within the voltage regulator, it's really a chicken and egg thing whether there was a regulator failure causing an overvoltage that caused the OVP to trip, or whether the OVP is the problem. Either way, it points to a bad regulator assuming all the connections are good. The only way I can think of to get an overvoltage without the regulator itself initiating it is if the field wire got shorted to the bus somehow.
  10. Sorry, I got the method of shutdown wrong. But you originally said the annunciator illuminated indicating an overvoltage which caused you to shut the alternator down. But now you say that the alternator dropped off line before the annunciator illuminated. If that is the case, then the fault could be in the regulator causing an overvoltage which caused the overvoltage protector to trip, or an errant overvoltage protector that tripped erroneously. The latter seems more likely because the data shows no overvoltage transient.
  11. There was no overvoltage as shown by the data. The steady light on the annunciator indicating overvoltage was erroneous causing you to shut down the alternator by pulling the field breaker. You need to figure out why the annunciator light illuminated. Regulators have over voltage protection to shut down the alternator in the event of an overvoltage. There are two methods: either by cutting off the field current directly or by shorting the field circuit (via a "crowbar" device) to cause the field CB to trip thus removing the field current.
  12. I would try to see if I could duplicate it on the ground -- makes troubleshooting easier. There might be an issue with the vernier mechanism. I would try adjusting the rpm without using the vernier to see if it exhibits the same behavior.
  13. (830) 792-2920 fcrawford@mooney.com
  14. I also haven’t found the double sticky tape on the adhesive anchors to hold well. (I’ve used them in other applications, but never on the airplane). I think they might work if glued down with Pliobond or some other contact cement.
  15. A couple of mechanics I know swear by MMO for flushing stuck rings. Use the Savvy procedure using MMO as the solvent.
  16. Why not ask Frank Crawford?
  17. Direct from Jan Maxwell: Yes, in Branson, Mo. We will be joining MAPA Safety Foundation PPP October 16th-18th (Thursday thru Saturday). Besides safety seminars and Mooneys, will be offering special activities and shows for the family.
  18. Bending the skins is only for fine tuning after all the rigging has been set correctly.
  19. Maybe. But the amount of methyl salicylate in MMO is small and you are only supposed add 4 oz per 10 gal of gas.
  20. MMO isn't going to dissolve your fuel tank sealant. It is mineral spirits, a little oil of wintergreen, a bit of TCP and a couple of dichlorobenzene isomers to dissolve carbon and lead deposits. https://marvelmysteryoil.com/pages/sds
  21. It sounds like the elevators are misaligned and the shop compensated by tweaking the aileron and/or flap rigging. I’d get the elevators right and then repeat the rigging procedure.
  22. Leaner mixtures burn slower and reach peak pressure later after ignition than rich mixtures. Ignition timing is fixed and set to provide peak pressure at the crankshaft angle that produces maximum torque at full rich, maximum manifold pressure and max rpm to get rated power. LOP, the peak pressure occurs after of the optimum crankshaft angle. Since timing is fixed, your only remedy is to slow engine rotation to get closer to the optimum operating point.
  23. Since I’m not an A&P, I need to get someone to supervise and sign off work like this, so I just ask them how they would do it.
  24. Did you try removing the interior plastic trim and disconnecting the hold open arm at the bottom of the door? That’s how I installed mine and there was plenty of access.
  25. I’ve found that Tri-Flow works well to lubricate lock cylinders. It’s really easy to break into the standard Mooney cabinet locks without a lock pick set if you have a key that fits the slot even if it won’t open the lock. Just twist it a bit to tension the pins against the cylinder and rake the key in and out until the pins line up.
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