PT20J

There are two different designs for the folding back seats. Some just fold down. Others were designed to get a little more back seat room by positioning the back a couple of inches rearward. These will not fold flat unless you remove the back seat cushion, pull the hitch pin that holds the frame onto the adjusting mechanism, lift the back frame off and reposition it onto the frame tube holes that are closest to the back of the frame. There are instructions in the POH that are accurate, but difficult to understand until you actually do it. Took me a while to figure it out.

You can see if Vantage has one https://vantageassoc.com The interior plastics are fairly easy to repair, but someone has made such a mess of that that it would take a lot of work and likely will never look great.

The one at 0S9 is hanging in the Port Townsend Aero Museum. Sadly, it’s not airworthy due to bug damage to the spar.

I get mine from the prop when working under the engine.

The data sheet for the new switch shows it protrudes .323" from the panel. The original on my M20J is flush.

A lot of people put the sticker on the ELT.

The real issue here is that the shop should not have charged for warranty work. I checked with a couple of Garmin dealers I do business with and neither would charge a customer for extra time to install a warranty item. It's part of being a Garmin dealer and providing good customer service.

I once saw a M20C stall at about 20 feet due to windshear and drop in at KMMH. The only visible damage was bent prop tips and the gear doors were bent out 90 deg. I guess this is what happens when you keep grossing up a design.

Just be aware that the IAI annunciator panel uses the electrical path through the nav light filaments to make the GEAR DOWN light glow bright when the nav lights are off, so if you replace all the nav lights with LEDs you will need some way to circumvent this or the GEAR DOWN light will be dim all the time.

And the sticker has the number to call if you set it off accidentally! Another reason to put it on the panel.

Green is Whelen A1280-3. @OSUAV8TER probably has them.

The Gear Warning CB powers the gear down floor light, the Gear Down and Gear Unsafe annunciator lights and the gear warning sonalert (tone generator in later models). So, the symptoms indicate some issue in this circuitry. The only part of the circuit that is active when the gear is moving but not active when the gear is either up or down is the Gear Unsafe annunciator. I would look for a short circuit somewhere in this circuit.

You cannot order directly from Mooney. You have to order through a Mooney Service Center. They are listed here https://mooney.com/contact-2/

I seem to recall that there was a company in Canada that was making them. Maybe someone else remembers the details. The problem with these fairings is that they get cracked because the gear doors are not shimmed properly. And the photo earlier in the thread showing a gap is not correct as that will create drag. The door should match the contour of the fairings and there should be some foam tape on the doors to cushion the contact points and seal the gap.

Check around. There are probably lots of used ones for sale with all the panel upgrades. May be cheaper to buy a used one.

Intake leaks cause noticeable roughness at idle and low power when the throttle plate is restricting airflow through the servo. Leaks don’t increase airflow much, if any, at WOT. If the engine is running smoothly it’s not a sticking valve. You can eliminate the injector nozzles by cleaning them. Since this happened after maintenance, I’d ask the shop what they did that might have caused this. But this only provides useful information if done soon after it leaves the shop. Memories fade. I always like to verify the instrumentation is accurate when I get an anomalous indication, especially if the engine is otherwise operating normally. I would swap CHT and EGT probes between cylinders 2 and 4 and see if the high temps stay with cylinder 2 or follow the probes. I might also check the condition of the probes and connections.

Bevan also works on them.

This has always been my practice in every airplane I've flown -- get the airplane in the takeoff configuration first. I believe that NACA wind tunnel data shows that flap parasitic drag for a single slotted flap increases parabolically with deflection angle. So raising the flaps to the TO position will get rid of most of the flap drag. I also find it easier to manage the trim if I don't bring all the flaps up at once. Most of the time we have plenty of excess power available and climb performance is not highly dependent on technique. But perhaps technique might become more important at high density altitude with a normally aspirated engine. Presumably the flight test pilots took that into consideration when developing the POH. The first 15 degrees of flaps in my M20J don't have much drag and only reduce the level stall speed by 1 KCAS. The main effect is to provide a more nose down attitude. Full flaps reduce the level stall speed by 7 KCAS which is a greater reduction than most GA airplanes. So, full flaps in a Mooney are effective lift and drag producers. The flap drag can mask the gear drag at low speeds which is likely a contributing factor to pilots not noticing that the gear is not down during landing. It's easy to raise flaps to the TO position without looking at the flap position indicator in a plane with electric flaps that does not have the switch with the TO position: Just count "one thousand-one, one thousand-two..." while raising the flaps and stop when you get to the count you have determined raises them to the TO position. It'll be close enough.

Frank Crawford makes them at Mooney - order through a MSC. Paint shops usually have a way to make labels. If you are really a CB, just use a label maker.

There are a lot of components to what we call an annual inspection. 1. Open up the airplane for inspection. 2. While it is open, clean the engine and do routine lubrication. 3. Inspection. 4. Make a squawk list. 5. Complete airworthy items on squawk list. 6. Compete or defer non-airworthiness items on squawk list. 7. Verify ADs and Service Bulletin compliance. 8. Close up airplane. 9. Perform post maintenance run up, maybe flight check. 10. Complete logbook entry and return to service. I do 1, 2, 8, 9 myself and usually 5 and 6 under supervision. It takes about a week. The actual inspection by the IA is only a few hours for which he charges me a flat fee. I keep the airplane up well, so there is seldom much in the way of squawks to fix.

My ACK 406 is ten years old and works fine. I might call ACK for advice. The owner has been helpful in the past.

I have tried a several. A lot depends on the type of soil. Claws work better in rocky soil than screws which work better in sandy soil.

The nozzles shouldn't wear out, but there are a couple of stupid mechanic tricks that can screw them up. The first is using safety wire, a drill or some other object to clean them. That can bugger up or change the size of the orifice. The second is mixing up the inserts between the bodies. It's easy to test them. Just set up the baby bottle test and watch the spray patterns when fuel is flowing. It should be a stream about the size of a #2 pencil lead. If it is otherwise, then there is a problem. If it's a simple mix up of the parts, you can swap around inserts until they all have a coherent stream. According to Al Jesmer, that's how RSA assembles them at the factory. They just match parts until the stream is right.

I notice the LASAR picture shows holes and LASAR gets them from GLAP so maybe the difference between the two GLAP part numbers is holes or no holes and the GLAP photo is wrong. You could call GLAP or I believe Gallagher is now a GLAP distributer and he may know.

Maybe it’s not original. My 1978 J lens was retained by the metal trim which attached with screws, but there were no holes in the plastic except for the three drain holes. GLAP lists two cowl lenses depending on serial number, but the pictures for both show no holes. Anyone else have a cowl landing light lens with holes in the plastic?