PT20J

I removed a 2" 880039-515 B&D tach with a 880053-501 tach generator from my 1994 28V M20J. Both are for sale at Skyman Avionics 541-604-9573. You could check with Frank Crawford at Mooney to see if he has any compatibility info. Worst case you could replace the tach and generator both with the ones from my airplane which worked fine when removed.

I don’t know about washers with ridges, but the “sleeve bushings” @cliffy refers to are spacer p/n 550017-005 listed in item 12 of the IPC page posted above. The IPC drawings are representational and do not always include small parts. There are 4 spacers: one goes on each side of the rod end on each gear door.

Just get DLC lifters and a new camshaft when you overhaul and forget about it.

Send me the two thousand bucks and I’ll see about it

Lycoming 4 cyl engines have 8 valves and 6 cam lobes, so two lobes actuate 2 lifters each. I wonder if those go out first?

Here’s a picture of what Byron’s talking about (view from the bottom with the oil pan removed. Dipstick hole is in the upper right corner).

I believe that there are FAA-required inspections and there are informal inspections. Inspections required by regulation (for part 91, annual and AD mandated inspections) are maintenance activities and require appropriate logbook entries. An informal inspection such as a pre-purchase inspection is merely a professional opinion of the condition of the aircraft. It is not maintenance and there is thus no requirement for a logbook entry.

Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket #3

You should definitely swing the gear afterwards. I don’t see why some play in these rod ends should make the airplane unairworthy (which would be the only reason to “ground”it) but if your CFI really believes that he should refuse to fly it without obtaining a ferry permit. I would either obtain the parts and have your local A&P install them and swing the gear, or I would fly it to another shop. No need to get your CFI involved (and pay his fee) assuming you are current in the airplane. A lot of mechanics will not sign off the work of owners unless they know the mechanical abilities of the owner. It takes time to build up that level of trust.

I’d have done what you did. No reason to tear it down if it’s not making metal. I would use x/c victory oil and be especially careful about cold starts if I had a cam that was beginning to show signs of distress, but I’d just watch it until I found metal in the filter.

The coolie hat switch is used on the Cirrus because it controls aileron trim as well as elevator trim.

The engine monitor does not connect to the VR. The schematic in volume 2 of the Service Manual will detail the connections. There should be power, over voltage indication, field, remote sense, and ground.

Bruce’s makes a tailcone cover.

Since it seems repeatable, I would remove a spark plug from each cylinder and remove the rocker covers and compare the valve motion in all cylinders when rotated by hand.

FWIW, I have found a lot of errors in the dash numbers for vendor parts in Mooney IPCs. Mooney frequently seems to dispense with leading and trailing zeros and sometimes misplaces dashes

It’s probably a Cleveland part number. https://www.parker.com/literature/Aircraft Wheel & Brake Division/AWB Static Files for Literature/AWBPC0001.pdf

I bought some window trim from Bruce Jaegar. I ordered beige but he also had gray as I recall. It is different from the original. It is soft silicone rubber and I needed to glue it on the backside with some clear RTV, but I really like it because it doesn't get hard and shrink like the original. Bruce retired, but you could contact the company and see if they still have it available. https://www.jaegeraviation.com/home Another possibility if the Plane Plastics beading is a hard plastic would be to paint it with gray SEM Color Coat.

Looking at AWI's website, there are two M20 200 hp mufflers https://www.qaa.com/products/aircraft-exhaust-system/mooney/m-20-200-ball-rib https://www.qaa.com/products/aircraft-exhaust-system/mooney/m-20-200-slip-rib-m20j They have different tailpipes and different muffler part numbers because one uses ball joints on the risers and the M20J version has slip joints. If the ball joint riser muffler has a straight exit pipe, perhaps they made up the wrong part when they built yours.

The Mooney M20J SMM says to use a wash primer -- which I believe is a self etching primer -- before applying an epoxy primer. So, I assume that's what the factory did. I've got a lot of paint chipping off the leading edges of all surfaces and various flat rivet heads that are not smoking (Interestingly, the paint is adhering well on a few rivets that are smoking). My paint guy says he sees that a lot on Mooneys. I'm having it painted at Sunquest. They are highly rated and paint Caravans for FedEX and seaplanes for Kenmore Air among others. I'm beginning to understand why my paint job is going to cost north or $40K when others seem to get it done cheaper.

If you have a bob weight, then you don't have a M20J and so the M20J SMM does not apply.

All of the airplanes before the M20K had trim assist bungees. They function to bias the elevator neutral point in the direction of trim reducing the need for incidence change of the horizontal stabilizer to eliminate stick force at the trimmed airspeed. The K and after have a bob weight (to increase stick force per g) and a downspring that changes tension with stabilizer trim movement to perform the same function.

Agree with @GeeBee. The circuit breakers protect the wiring between the circuit breaker and the load. (Think where the circuit breakers are in your home). You always want the circuit breaker as close to the power source as possible. The panel/glareshield lights are controlled by a couple of transistors. The fast blow fuses between the collector and the lamps for each transistor protect the transistors (and also the wire to the lamps) in case there is a short at the lamps or wire to the lamps.

Would you expect this to happen with epoxy primer?

All the negativity probably ran @George Braly off of here (which would be too bad because I think we all need to keep open lines of communication until this is understood),but he’s continued to post on BT. He posted a drip-evaporate-drip test on one of his Beechcraft panels and said he will post a complete YouTube video of the test maybe later today. One interesting thing is that he was able to polish out the brown stains whereas others including @donkaye have been unable to do so. So, perhaps not all paint reacts the same to G100UL. Maybe the paint on George’s test panels is newer or something. I believe he said they were not original Beech paint.

Under part 91, there is no requirement to change oil ever.