PT20J

Numbers can be misleading because noise is so subjective; everybody’s hearing and sensitivity to noise is different and nonlinear. I have a Zulu 3 and a Bose A20. I used them both in a float Beaver I used to fly which makes a Mooney seem quiet by comparison. The Bose was slightly quieter. In my M20J, I cannot tell much difference. I usually use the Zulu because I find it slightly more comfortable to wear for long periods. Either one is a good choice. I haven’t tried an A30, but the technology has got to be reaching the point of diminishing returns to justify the higher price since the previous generation works so well.

The switches are sealed so there is no way to clean the contacts if that's the problem. If the plunger is sticking, you can spray it with solvent and work it back and forth manually before the solvent dries.

Skyman Avionics has mine for sale. 541-604-9573. info@skymanavionics.com. https://www.skymanavionics.com/product-page/shadin-fuel-flow-indicator-912041t Previous owner had it repaired by Shadin in 2010 and I have the 8130. It was working fine when removed.

It’s normal to have a few drops come out the breather tube after a flight. This is the source of the oil on the exhaust cavity behind the tube but not the source of the oil on the gear doors (which originate ahead of the tube).

THIS ^^^^^ The dipstick will have a part number on it and you can download the parts catalog from Lycoming’s website to check that it is correct. Not sure why they would replace the dipstick - Lycoming prices them like they were made of gold.

There are a lot of options depending on how much work you want to do yourself and what materials you want to use. There are lots of threads on the site for refurbishing glare shields, plastic panels, carpeting and upholstery.

If you Google TIS-A, you will find references to it. It seems to have indeterminate origins and has crept into common usage. But, it was never official. I think it’s confusing because it implies that -B is an indicator of order as in B comes after A, but that is merely coincidental. The B signifies Broadcast.

The original mode S Traffic Information Service (TIS) was initiated in 2000 and is being phased out as of June 2023 as ground radars are updated. https://www.federalregister.gov/documents/2023/06/23/2023-12607/changes-to-surveillance-and-broadcast-services This does not affect TIS-B (Traffic Information Service - Broadcast) which is a separate ADS-B service. I don’t believe the FAA ever referred to any service as TIS-A. Some sources seem to have invented that acronym to further differentiate TIS from TIS-B.

If the connectors are not located in the belly, they are likely located on the left sidewall behind the carpeted side panel where most of the wiring runs.

Probably at the connector shown in the schematic. I’d remove the back shell and look in there. Part number will be in the electrical wiring diagrams section at the end of the service manual for the appropriate serial number.

You could always go vintage

That product is dry - it’s different than the more common Tri-Flow product in the spray cans. It does’t spray because it has a lot of solids that would clog a nozzle. I’ve used it to lube vinyl sliding windows. It works well, but leaves a lot of residue. I think LPS-1 might be a better choice.

If you use toggle switches, you could tie a string to them with the other end tied to the placard so that in order to reach the glare shield you have to pull the string tight enough to flip the switches off.

Tri-Flow is actually light weight oil with some Teflon mixed in. It’s not really a dry lube. If you spray some on a piece of metal and let it sit a while, you can feel the oily film. https://www.triflowlubricants.com/product/tri-flow-superior-lubricant-aerosol/

The problem with lubricating them is that the lubricant attracts dust and that gums them up. The best way to fix them is to remove them and take them apart and thoroughly clean them and then don't mess with them. I might try spraying them with contact cleaner which may get out some of the gunk and won't leave an oily residue.

There are a couple interesting things to note here. First, placing the Gear Override button below the switch. I never understood why when Mooney went to placing the switch and button in line vertically put the button above the switch. If you ever need it, the switch is going to be in the UP position and it makes the button a lot easier to get to the button when it is below the switch. Second, notice how the B-K switch mount was retained on the left yoke horn but the B-K trim switches were replaced with the Cygnet switches. This is perhaps the best way to mount the Cygnet switches and it eliminates the expensive B-K switches.

Prices are going to vary according to paint condition and products used, so comparisons are probably difficult. Same with painting. I got a quote for a basic paint job for $32K, but what I want is probably going to be more like $40K. I might just have someone buff out the visible parts and see how it looks. If the underlying paint won't buff to a gloss then it's not worth spending a lot on ceramic. The two advantages of ceramic coatings are longevity and extreme water repellency. Wax sits on top of the paint and doesn't last long, but it is easy to apply. "Ceramic" bonds to the paint and lasts longer. The cheap stuff you apply yourself maybe twice as long as wax. The expensive stuff professionals use lasts maybe a couple of years. But, it's expensive: Like 100 bucks a month expensive. So, you have to decide if it's worth it to you. I just spray my airplane with some Turtlewax and buff it with a microfiber towel every month or so. It only takes half an hour and it's cheap. But different people have different standards. I used to live in an apartment and there was a young couple that spent every Sunday detailing their car.

Since the gauge is new and the senders are rebuilt, I would isolate the gauge from the senders for troubleshooting. Mooney is pretty good about not using the airframe for grounding but the fuel gauges are an exception. Since the outboard gauge is grounded to the airframe, it is important that there be a good ground to the airframe at the gauge. If that's not the problem, I would stick a flexible borescope into the empty tank and make sure that the floats are moving freely. If that looks good, I'd disconnect the inboard sender from the gauge making sure that there is continuity between the inboard and outboard senders and that the outboard sender is grounded. Then I would measure the resistance between the inboard sender and ground as I added fuel to verify that the senders are working properly.

My '78 J did that. It's definitely a small leak in the engine compartment. In my case it was several.

My exhaust pipe hanger was installed incorrectly and the pipe was rubbing on the cowl flap causing some minor abrasion. I cleaned it up with some scotchbrite but it left a visibly discolored spot that has not improved in 300 hours. Something about stainless and heat. Maybe there's a metallurgist here that can explain it. So, I think if you want it too look good you will need to polish the whole thing uniformly - or maybe a mild acid etch - after cleaning up whatever that is.

This isn't clear. I think you are saying that you have some fuel in the tank and the gauge reads correctly but when you add additional fuel the gauge reading doesn't change. Since it happens in both tanks, I would suspect an installation problem on the outboard senders restricting their motion.

I’d check this diode for leakage.

Rebuilt senders and a new gauge? Sounds like there is more to the story. No output sounds like an open circuit somewhere. I don’t think there is any way to connect the wires incorrectly at the senders themselves if you used the factory wiring.

DC-3 has a shear pin on the tailwheel. Boss tried to turn too tight with the tug and we got to replace the pin.

I believe the monkey wrench is also often referred to as a Ford wrench because they were supplied with model Ts and perhaps others back when drivers were expected to know how to maintain their vehicles. I have one that belonged to my grandfather. It’s the best wrench for wheel nuts.