MIm20c

I’m sitting here with the plan of sending both off for an iran or buying one of these. This thread has me leaning towards sending them both to a reputable shop.

I’m guessing a 12 volt power source...a 24v to 12v power outlet is common for that vintage.

The OP did mention that the increase in cost to install a $10k AP was an extra $25k so I think it’s safe to say the labor played a large role in the $18k cost above.

I feel and understand the frustration in this thread. I’m also concerned with the authority given to certain branches/individuals to control the country and manipulate he markets. However, my largest concern is the widespread access to this virus and the ability for it to be stored so easily.

Im pretty sure the 275 interface is similar to the gad43 vs the 43e that does have outputs for altitude preselect.

Good info guys. Guess I need to update my wax choice.

I’ve been using it for a decade. Thought I was a little old school and nobody used it anymore. I don’t think it stands up to tks fluid as well as high quality 2 part systems but it’s a lot easier to put on.

Experience = becoming numb to giving away large sums of money.

That J looks like a great airplane that is priced fairly. The panel is original which makes it a perfect clean sheet makeover candidate. The only thing I’d keep is the fancy multiple probe engine monitor that everyone is raving about these days.

I think with recent increases in insurance premiums I’d budget at least 2.5k+ for the first year.

Ok, so who has the proper 18 gph drill bit for the main jet? Also please post a picture of the carb so I know what to drill on.

Also would like to know the cost for a long body, especially with the current exchange rate...

When testing batteries it’s best to put a load on them. This means checking the voltage while having a reasonable amperage load on like a landing light or two. As batteries age the reserve capacity drops slowly although if you have a bad cell it can drop dramatically. So IMO checking the voltage (pertaining to battery health) with the alternator off is important. Having said all that I just pick the battery that spins over the prop the fastest and use that for the flight. We put both on individual batteryminders after every flight. The required annual capacity check normally spots the bad apples. Also even with dual batteries and dual alternators if the main unit fails I’m landing ASAP, as in right NOW.

In my experience over the last 20 years if you start the plane on battery ___ and fly it for a reasonable amount (like an hour), the battery will be fully charged when you switch to the other (at shutdown). This process of regularly load testing and fully charging both batteries (every other flight) is the only way to test the reserve health. After replacing a ton of trash Gill batteries or half as many Concord you’ll soon be able to predict when the batteries will fail. The only thing this will not test for on every flight is a short etc on the trickle charge circuit. That will be noticed on the following flight load testing (starting).

Land, taxi, pull mixture, turn off mags and master, switch battery, and exit plane. Batteries ready to go for the next flight.

Probably a good thing to get the fuel pump rebuilt. I think there was another ‘99 eagle owner who had a similar problem not long ago. It’s more of a 20 YO thing not the number of hours IMO. However, the idea of checking the fuel system for leaks periodically with the electric pump is a good one...might add that to the oil change procedure once or twice a year.

I’d suggest a kerosene torpedo heater. I have two 190k and a 40k and they put out an amazing amount of heat. Makes working in the hangar much more tolerable during the winter until I find/build my own heated unit.

My advice is to pull the prop back to 2500 until you address the carb et al. No reason to keep sending cylinders over 450. You’ll find the difference in climb performance is not that much unless you fly around at gross all the time. The C is a pretty light plane.

Something like this?

Ideally your son will not want to own the plane he is giving lessons in FYI.

I think one of the problems is our cowl flaps do not have side skirt around them. That IMO would really help pull the air down and out. To be honest I’m having a similar problem (cyl 4 can increase to 415 during climb) which has ironically gotten worse after I sealed up the doghouse really well. I just reduce MP to 25 squared and it goes away.

Very true. So when I’m selling my average plane and trying to buy a newer average plane I’ll still be faced with the same dynamic. Smart planning would be to move the current plane first but I don’t want to lose my cheap hangar while searching for a replacement.

Is that the same manual where the cylinder redline is 500 ish...if so you’re fine... one inch is not enough IMO and you’ll get dead air around cylinder 4. Again just an opinion from an armchair mechanic playing with the kiddos this morning.

Having a hard time deciding on a good time to upgrade. The market is hard to judge right now. New listings are trying to command top dollar with very few to choose from. At the same time good planes are sitting for 6 months to a year and a few being removed because they just won’t sell. What I want? To buy a ‘95 or newer plane for a reasonable price and sell my vintage for a reasonable amount / timeframe. With many sitting at home these days, with plenty of time to dream about ownership, it feels like demand is high. However, with rising insurance rates and possible future economic headwinds I don’t want the buyers pool to dry up before I sell. Thoughts?