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Pascal

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  • Reg #
    N33RK
  • Model
    M20k 252

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  1. That’s the IPC diagram I used to identify the needed part (that’s one thing I appreciate about the Continental site; you can identify part numbers by engine Serial Number). Still working on finding a solution! Pascal
  2. I called Air Power too. Best case is a 97 day lead time, and I was told these days that really means 6 months, IF you can get it. I called Continental too, and they had the same answer. Pretty frustrating. Trying an expanded check with “parts locating services”. Thanks Pascal
  3. Greetings. I have a 1988 M20K 252 with the MB1B engine. A couple of months ago, I experienced a catastrophic failure just after liftoff; the #3 head exploded/separate from the cylinder. Fortunately, I was able to get it back on the ground without further incident. It was miraculous, particularly considering some of the bonehead decisions I made to get it on the ground! In the end, any landing where the pilot and passengers walk away is a good landing!!! Anyway, it caused some damage to the exhaust system. Most pieces are being repaired/refurbished at AWI (they told me this piece can’t be repaired). I’ve been trying to find the Transition piece (TCM part# 654877). No one seems to have one, and if they did the prices are criminal. I’ve already checked: AircraftSpruce, Aviation Parts, Aircraft Exhaust Systems, Plane Exhaust, Aircorn Welding, AWI, EN Parts, Texas and Dallas Salvage, and Knisley Welding. No luck so far. Does anyone have any idea where I might be able to find one? Pascal J Budge N33RK Email: pascal.budge@gmail.com
  4. Clarence and LanceCasper, sorry for the long delay in responding to your inquiries. The shrouds were $1200 for the pair. The adapter was $1500. QAA was very responsive to all of my inquiries, and worked very quickly to turn my adapter. Very pleased with their work and customer service. Still going strong and doing very well.
  5. Greetings to all. I have a 1988 M20k 252. The air intake can flange on my Mooney is breaking, the part that attaches to the turbo. I can't find a replacement for it anywhere. Does anyone have any ideas about possible solutions? The IPC says it's part number 600406-501. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Pascal J Budge N33RK
  6. Here's the image, in case the upload to the previous email didn't work.
  7. All, Received the rebuilt Adapter yesterday and got it installed last night. There is no further opportunity for debate. My problem was the Adapter. When I engaged the starter motor, the engine responded to positively I was a bit shocked. I'm in the middle of an annual, so we did some fuel system pressure testing before I tried to start it, which meant there was more fuel in the cylinders than I would normally use. It didn't start immediately, but it did start quickly. There was ZERO hesitation when I engaged the starter. I asked the technician who did the rebuild about what they found. The spring waIMG_3318.HEICIMG_3318.HEICs "tired", and there was some minor damage to the shaft in the Adapter. When it came back from QAA, it looked new. The A&P is confident that was the issue. What I can say is there is no delay or hesitation when I engage the starter now. Robert, yes we did check the relay and found it was functioning satisfactorily. I wish it would have been less expensive to fix, but there is it. One other non-related item. The exhaust shrouds were the originals, and were nearly shattered. So, I removed them and searched for a solution. After MUCH research, Mooney said they could manufacture replacements at about $1k per shroud!! I removed mine and sent them to AWI in Minnesota. They were able to refurbish them to the point that they have the appearance of "new". They came back with 8130 documentation. Installation was simple, and they fit perfectly in every way. Oh, they did the refurb at a fraction of the cost to get a new pair fabricated from Mooney. Pascal Budge
  8. I have the Monroy tanks in my 252. Unfortunately, the original owner wanted every bit of fuel capacity he could get, so he removed the speed brakes. That gave him 2 additional gallons per side, beyond the normal capacity Monroy tanks. I’d rather have the speed brakes!
  9. All, My A&P monitored when I engaged the starter motor. Blade was labored as I explained previously. He came away saying he pretty confident the adapter is the problem. We tested other potential problems with delivery of adequate power to the starter. All indicators were “nominal” (I live in the shadow of Kennedy Space Center!). We also checked timing. MAGs may have been off by a degree, or within 2 degrees of the timing recommendations in the Mooney Maintenance Manual. So, we removed the adapter the other day and I sent it to QAA for rebuild. I contacted several rebuild options, all of those previously mentioned in this forum. QAA was the best option for my circumstance. I got some very customer service oriented support from the Hartzell rep and QAA. Housing appeared to be in good condition, along with all of the visible gears in the adapter. I should get it back by the 18th and we’ll try to get it installed by the 23rd or so. I’ll update after it gets installed and we get a chance to test it. Pascal N33RK
  10. Ok, the A&P and I did some initial diagnosing. Battery was tested after about 5 days of non-activity. Measured 25.2 solid, I.e., it held that voltage. Then we disconnected the starter and checked voltage delivery to the starter by engaging the starting circuit. Measured 24.7. We didn’t check the voltage drop at the battery with the starter engaged. Any inputs on how much drop there should be? If the voltage drops more than it should, what does that mean? I know on car batteries, there are two essential components required to be a healthy batter; voltage storage, and cranking amps. You can have acceptable storage, but if the cranking amps are not sufficient, the battery is the problem, or vice-versa. I assume there’s something similar with aircraft batteries, but I don’t know how to test that. I started it again the other day. Initially, there seems to be sufficient power delivered to the starter, at least it sounds that way. However, it still takes a bit for the engine to actually turn over on the first attempt; very labored start. As before, thank you all for the recommendations and ideas. More to follow... Pascal
  11. My thanks to all for the responses and recommendations. N201KTurbo, we will certainly include this analysis in our diagnostic this afternoon. Done some work on proper bonding/grounding, but that's one of those things that is always a healthy review. Austintatious, I routinely rotate the propeller before starting, specifically to make sure it isn't binding, and just to get it moving a little. I did not install a SkyTec starter. I purchased a refurbished Teledyne starter (646275-1) from qaa.com. It's the heaviest of the 3 options Paul K mentioned, which is one of the reasons I wanted to try a SkyTec. The Hartzell option looks interesting. carusom, we'll be checking the relay in our diagnostic analysis. Previously, I removed and cleaned the contact points really well. Clean contacts doesn't mean it's functioning as it should, but it's one of the actions to work on. I think it's the original. Andy, battery was checked both shortly after use, and days/week after sitting. What I'm not sure of yet is whether the starter remains engaged and cranking and just doesn't have the ability to translate the energy through the adapter because of the adapter, or if there is a potential voltage drain between the battery and starter. As I said to begin with, thanks to all for the recommendations. Very helpful. Will share the outcome when we figure it out. Pascal
  12. tmo, I checked the capacity a couple of weeks ago on the phone with a Concorde technician, who was extremely helpful by the way. Pretty sure the battery is not the culprit. However, we'll do the external power option just to confirm. Want to check and make sure the relay isn't contributing to the problem, but the hot start performance would suggest something else.
  13. Never had a "kick back" that I noticed. The starter works perfectly when the engine is warm, or if it's turned over a few times. I don't have a problem getting the engine started once the motor can get it turning. Usually less than 2 blades to catch. Time for the annual, so we'll work on diagnosing the issue.
  14. Actually, I ordered a SkyTec, but it didn't fit without alternations in the engine wall. I got the Starter from QAA, and it was an overhauled option. Don't have any trouble with it in every other circumstance.
  15. Greetings to all. I've asked this question in the past, but it's been a while and I can't seem to find it in the archives. I have a 1988 M20k 252 with ~1900 total time. Engine was overhauled at ~1100 hours. In the past several months, I've had difficulty getting the engine to turn over when I engage the starter. Replaced the starter motor, have a Concorde battery with about 100 hours and full charge. What happens when I engage the starter is that it turns very slowly, labored. As soon as it starts to get any speed at all, the engine fires up quickly. After it spins a little, I don't have the same problem. The engine turns over at normal pace for a hot start as well. Any ideas? If you think the answer is the Starter Adapter, any ideas about where to get one? I checked replacement costs. Most parts are unreasonably priced. TCM new is beyond ridiculous. If it is the Starter Adapter, does anyone know where rebuilds can be done? Thank you very much in advance for any options or recommendations. Pascal Budge N33RK
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