skykrawler

I was there last week and it looked like grass....so I don't know if they plan to pave or not. It would be nice if the runway was 10ft wider but that's not likely. I wouldn't take off from there at max GW without a 10kt headwind. Another thing to bear in mind in these scenarios is the wind goes calm on the ground and 50 ft up you have a 5 kt wind.

A late addition to this post. W75 has made changes to the departure area of the RWY 1. The tall pine trees have been removed and the two story frame house was moved. This makes the RWY 1 departure much safer. I fly in there for fuel and for the challenge. You must be on your game because the margins are smaller.

So was this problem resolved?

I can't tell you I read all 10 pages of these comments....but one of the things that led me to select my 81 J model was the reduced noise. This airplane has the double thickness window on the door (exhaust side) and a more substantial insulation for sound deadening. I read about this incremental change in a couple of places. I rode in E and F models and other people who have as well tell me this J is a lot quieter inside. Even with ANR engine noise in the E & J is quite loud. This was also a complaint I had with DA-40....and the DA-40 vents were loud as hell. The newer Diamonds must be better.

Looks sweeeet.

Don't know about the C/E/F models but my understanding was the J model exhaust system had tuned exhaust stacks. I was with a club that had a DA-40 with PF and it may have improved the performance. But the system was expensive and a couple items were repeat offender replacements and expensive. Cracks and what not.

The models with the large engines have more weight on the nose wheel. If this was an experimental aircraft somebody would strengthen the design. For example, why doesn't Mooney add additional gussets to the truss to make it a stronger? It wouldn't eliminate the need to replace it when damaged, but it might prevent the collapse and resulting expensive damage.

So I guess you are saying it did nothing during the pre-flight. And I will assume your Trim power switch on the panel is ON. With the aircraft on the ground and not running.....as you toggle each of the two switches you should be able hear a click in each direction. This sound is the contacts transferring. Verify that you hear that sound on both. If not there is a mechanical problem with switch. Here is how to verify the trim switch operation and connections. Avionics on, autopilot powered but not engaged. Toggle only the red side of trim switch each direction and check that the trim clutch engages by moving the wheel manually and feeling the resistance. If not, it could be a power problem related to the AP disconnect button. If the clutch engaged both directions proceed..... Engage autopilot. Push both trim buttons up - AP should disconnect. Engage autopilot, push both switches down, AP should disconnect. If this all works it is not a problem with the switches or connections to the AP. If it doesn't it could be a problem with the switches or the wires that routes through the wheel/column. The wires undergo a certain amount of flex where they emerge from the control tube. Attached is the TRIM PREFLIGHT CHECK. for the 150 which should be similar. trim-preflight.pdf

What symptom resulted in the replacement? Electrical or mechanical? In other words what is the ongoing problem? Is it intermittent? Which autopilot?

The button on the arc disengages the electric motor. It should all be in the Airplane Flying Handbook. You have to turn that crank 40 times or something. Dude, you need somebody to get checked out on that airplane.

I feel compelled to chime in.... The B737-800 does not have a fly by wire control system. However, a change on the MAX was to eliminate the mechanical spoiler mixer box with a digital control unit. What this means is the roll control which uses ailerons and is augmented with the roll spoilers (for additional authority) has an electrical component. I think it is primarily a function of wheel position - not a closed loop on attitude - like fly-by-wire. The alpha vane is used primarily by the stall warning computer. The autopilot doesn't use it much. The MAX MCAS uses the vane data. The autopilot is probably a Collins autopilot. Boeing provides design specifications, Collins builds the product including writing the software for the box. It a collaboration. Jets with engines under the wing, below and forward of the CG tend to pitch up with the addition of power. Especially so with substantial addition of power. The MCAS was added to protect against accelerated stalls (in the bank) when the aircraft was being hand flown. All the Lion Air pilots had to do was engage the autopilot or use the trim cutout switches. The autopilot will not engage with the trim disabled by the cutout switches. It remains to be seen about the Ethiopian crash. It may be related to the CWS (control wheel steering) mode which sometimes confuses pilots. It has happened many times that pilots became distracted by something and crashed a perfectly good airplane - think L-1011 and the everglades.

I do owner assisted maintenance and inspections. My AP/AI has previous Mooney experience in his repertoire and we use the standard Mooney inspection checklist. I am certain the airplane is airworthy and know what I am flying when departing into a 400ft overcast. Many prefer to just send the airplane to the shop. The owner is responsible for the airworthiness of the airplane. I keep up a spreadsheet that lists ADs and the compliance date that maps back to the log book. Mike Busch has it right then he says the inspection should produce a list of items that must be taken care of and a list of items that can be deferred. If you have you regular guy work the deferred items then annual will take less time and cost less. Taking your airplane to a new shop is a good way to be held hostage and end up with a very large maintenance bill. I know of a case where the shop removed a cylinder without speaking with the owner. I have never seen a list of Mooney 'problem' areas that should be watched. Such a list would be useful. Is there one on the space?

I would never ridicule another person who owned a well maintained airplane - even a Piper Tri-Pacer . I don't understand the Cirrus hate.

Apparently some people call them triplexors or whatever..... Here is a link to a coupler for $156: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/avpages/av571coup.php?clickkey=23595

It should be pointed out that the 1-to-2 and 1-to-3 couplers or splitters introduce a (relatively small 1dB) amount of signal loss that is a specification of the device. They need to work with Frequency 108-118 and 329-335.3 MHz. Each connector adds a .25 dB loss (for a new connector/crimp) and in my J there are two or more connectors from towel rack antenna just in the tail cone. I have always felt my VOR reception was a little weak and noisy but have not learned of any good ways to test without specialized equipment. So I'm interested in what you find.

Sure pushed up a big pile of dirt

Don't think they make them anymore.......https://lasar.com/gauges/fuel-meter-m550rs I've read quite a bit and I still don't get this STC stuff. A fuel flow meter is not on the M20* type certificate. It's not a major modification. Perhaps it needs to be TSO or PMA. Should just be a log book entry.

Unless you have an instrument that tells you the total current load......the stock ammeter just shows the rate of current between the battery and the alternator. So if your ammeter showed 40 amps then your battery was charging furiously. If the alternator is not putting out then the ammeter will show negative current (needle deflects left) and you are running off the battery. If there is resistance in the regulator sense circuit (field wire mentioned in previous post, which goes through the master switch) then the system may try to charge the battery unnecessarily (needle to the right). This may also be implied by the over voltage indication.....the regulator thinks the voltage is low so it jacks up the alternator output. The nominal case is the alternator has capacity to carry all loads you turn on and the needle only momentarily deflects. Pitot heat is probably the highest load (aside from starter) when it is first turned on (> 16 amps) until it heats up, resistance increases and the current goes down.

Some fuel bladders are 'self sealing' if they develop a hole like from a rivet head. Some old military bladders are designed to take a projectile and re-seal. I have seen older Cessna 182 bladders emit a goop in this process...typically getting near the end of life. C182 bladders are 10-15 year things. Seems like there would be some goop around the source hole on bottom of wing.

This is basically metal dust washing out of the fasteners. Also, the cowl will chaff the aluminum edge to which it is fastened. Usually there is anti friction tape to guard against that - but is can be difficult to eliminate all of it. Easier to clean off before it dries completely. Rain is hard on paint, too.

Definitely like the box heater. For those that are plugging in I purchased a cheap cell operated switch: https://www.amazon.com/OlogyMart-Controlled-Sockets-Controller-Temperature/dp/B07GRFX8XB/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1548622811&sr=8-14&keywords=remote+gsm+switch T-mobile sim, $3.50 per month. My engine has a heat pad on the pan and bands on the cylinders. I send a text message 3 hours before I need to start and with a blanket the engine thoroughly warm. I also have a ceramic type heater that I can leave in the cabin. I also operate my LED hanger lights through this switch.

My understanding is the left mag is the one closest to the left side of the airplane (looking at the engine from the rear). The left mag should have a spacer to accommodate the extra length with the impulse coupling. Total mag failure can be due to a primary or secondary coil failure, coil/points wire coming loose, points coming loose, rotor gear failure, ....something that causes all four ignition leads to not operate. You said "the plane shook and begin to vibrate", but if a single mag drops out all you typically will see is a small drop in RPM and EGT rise. So that's strange. If it were me I would have to take off the bad magneto to see what the failure is before I order another. Could be a simple fix. Of course you should coordinate with your A&P. The data plate on the magneto has the part number. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nzkykFRlBgw https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PdM2KVBf_ts https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XhHBoyGVvjQ

When the switch is in the L position the right mag is grounded and the engine is running on the left mag only. Vise-versa for the R switch position. From your last post it seems like your p-leads may be reversed. From your last post is sounds like both mags are operating. Disconnect p-leads and use an ohm meter to test between each p-lead and ground. Both p-leads should show OPEN in the both position and CONTINUITY for the opposite p-lead for the R and L switch position. It's important to have the p-leads attached to the correct mag for diagnosing cylinder/ignition problems with the engine monitor.

This product: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/navstrobe11-13522.php?clickkey=7230 says the base is 1940 compatible. This unit will flash but I can't tell what the frequency is. With this, one could remove the motor and lenses and install this. Yeah, yeah...not TSO.

Another thing to motivate the move to LED is the grinder is rated 4.5 amps for 14v. My electrical analysis is indicates closing on 40 amps nominally. Add to that radio transmissions, pitot heat, gear operation, flap operation. I want the LED....but I want my $500 more for now.