milotron

It should. In the 100 series the clutch is always powered when power is available at the breaker. I think the 200 series is the same, but that constantly powered circuit runs through the controller first. My understanding of these is that pulling the breaker should cause them to retract in case of emergency or erratic operation. Sounds like you might have some other mechanical issue with them then, maybe a foreign object causing it to not fully seat?

I don't think it is an issue with a gear drive. All of the electric speedbrakes use either limit switches ( 1000 series ) or position sensors ( 2000 series ) for controlling the motor and clutch for up or down. I have one that sticks halfway down and releases ( drops ) when the breaker is pulled. I think it is an issue with one of the microswitches with high resistance on the contacts. It has been back to Precise flight several times according to the log books, all for the same issue that seems to keep returning. iain

I had a deal on some tires on the mainland and was looking for a constructive excuse to go flying. Shipping costs were about the same as fuel costs. Finally just got it back from the shop now so can actually figure it out in person, but do appreciate all the advice and stories presented!

thanks for all the responses. Sounds like it will work out just fine. My back bench seat is fixed, but I will wrap the tires and load them through the door. Thanks!

Hey, maybe someone can save me the trouble; has anybody fit and carried car tires in the back of their Mooney, either baggage or back seat? If so, in through the baggage door or passenger door? thanks! iain

Hey left coasters, Anybody going to this: http://www.washington-aviation.org/NAC&TS.html Anybody been in the past? Is it recommended? iain

have a look at the skybolt website. They have an alternate suggestion of using small split washer to retain the camlock loosely within the hole, but still allowing it to move and let the cowls actually come apart. https://skybolt.com/portfolio/mooney/ They are very nice fasteners, just oversized enough to fit worn holes nicely. I bought a bunch to put on mine when it returns from minor surgery. Here are the instruction showing use of the washers. http://skybolt.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/Mooney-Instructions.pdf iain

I start every time the same and get the same stumble you had noted. Leave throttle at 1100rpm when you shutdown, close the mixture. When starting LEAVE the throttle there. Mixture at full and run primer for 3-10 seconds, more when cold. Wait a couple of seconds, then crank. It should catch right away but might stumble a little. Run the primer again ( hold it down ) until it stabilizes. Lean mixture once stable to highest rpm. I think the stumble is from fuel draining out of the injection system and some time for the mechanical pump on the engine to get the fuel back up to it.

Copper on mine. They also have a recommendation to put a blob of RTV on it near the base of the connection to help minimize vibrations and it breaking off in the future.

Sorry to resurrect this post, but is there an AD from Mooney on this? My mechanic seems to think so. He says they ‘failed’ and need to be replaced.

Mine is in annual now and looks like the boot or baffle around the prop governor control cable is mostly gone. I can't even tell what it was supposed to look like. No real cooling issues, so not overly concerned yet. Anybody have a picture or a replacement option for this? Is it a like a sock or just some baffle pieces? Thanks,

The link for the page on compatible autopilots is conspicuously broken...

Voltage regulator?

NAV Canada put that all on hold or delayed for awhile. At least a couple of years before it will be needed and I suspect the uproar from the villagers may get them to rethink the diversity requirement. I understand that they are testing our little planes with only bottom antennas. A 737 shades the lower antenna a lot more than a mooney especially considering that the satellite reading it not likely to be directly overhead. I am holding off on this diversity thing for as long as possible. A bit more info here: https://www.skiesmag.com/features/diversity-matters-canadas-performance-requirements/

That is an excellent tip Clarence! I will pass this on the my AME. He his willing to do this work, but hasn't done a Mooney in a while ( and doesn't particularly like it from what I gather )

Thanks for the responses. Yes, the exterior trim piece below and forward of the windshield. The logs don't show it as being replaced and it looks original to 1981. What does a Cherry max rivet look like installed?

Hi, I was going to replace my windshield in January and AME felt I would need the trim piece below it replaced as it would not come out intact. I suppose this can only come from the factory or is there a risk-free way to remove this without destroying it? I don't want to get into a position with the plane apart and a key part now becoming impossible to acquire. I know this can always occur, but would hate to do it intentional with this elective surgery. Thanks,

This is the way that Mooney does it, basically two standalone systems. It is fairly primitive but they seem to work fine when all the parts are functional. Diodes required the alternator to be removed and dissembled. They tested fine when I changed the brushes several months ago, but starting to think there is a shorted diode that is causing the winding to act like a load on the system. I just got a new diode bridge in yesterday and will try that next. Not much else to look at it, everything else is new!

Yes, there is split alternator field switch and each can be turned on or off separately. They are basically two independent alternator and regulator systems connected to the same bus, there is no load sharing or controller that works to share the load. Normally, I keep both on all the time. The direct drive alternator spins a little slower than the belt drive so takes a bit less load. The second alternator is a standard Kelly Aerospace type unit, like the Prestolite/Ford.

Hey, I am troubleshooting an ongoing issue with the second, belt driven alternator. The gear driven one works fine, but when the belt driven one is added, the bus voltage actually goes down. There is a vert low whining noise through the audio panel with this alt on line also, but the measured AC ripple is still within tolerance. Any thoughts? I have rebuilt the whole alternator except for the diode bridge. New-ish zeftronics regulator that is working correctly according to the indicator lamps. Running out of ideas.

I got that stuff from plane plastics I belIeve. Slips on. The stuff I had before was rock hard and shattered when moved.

Since we are all sharing...I found the plane plastics door panel much thicker than the original which affected how it fit on the edges that have the return on them. I ended up trimming most of the return away to get it to fit. In hind sight, the heat gun may have helped that, but it still would have been quite a stretch due to the amount of material there Be very careful with the tiny screw in the center of the lower panel, that ends up behind the upper panel. A previous owner of my plane put that one in too far and made a pimple on the outside of the door. I did not put it back in as it was not needed, nor worth the risk. It already was less than 3/16 of an inch long, not sure how much shorter they make those little #4 screws.

Sorry, but all I can add from experience with my plane is that the level sensor is at the front of the tank, as it reads a lower level on the ground then when the plane is level in the air.. Pretty sure you need to get to it from the bottom access panels.

I tried to be fancy by transcribing the holes and failed. Gave up and just drilled new holes.

Flight timer for the ADF. Mine is located just below it, above the throttle. Actually quite handy once you realize it is there. Great for doing holds or timing turns.