milotron

Hi, for me the difference was a very noticeable increase in engine roughness(?) while lean of peak and with switching the mags on or off. It could be other ignition related items to that particular mag, like the harness or plugs also. My left mag that had high hours was just IRANed and it is noticeably smoother now. The TIT went down a bit also. I think the TIT went down about 20 degrees based on the same power settings before and after the repair, not accounting for environmental conditions. There was a number of degraded parts for that mag if I recall, including worn down cam, points and some other bits showing their age. Certainly when you run on one mag, LOP and at altitude all the EGTs and TITs jump due to the less complete, or later in-cylinder combustion and more flame out the exhaust. With your EGTs being that much higher, it could suggest an issue with the ignition either in the mags or wires themselves.

I like this approach. I used one of the spare radio cooling duct ports inside the top of the NACA duct on the passenger side to hard wire an extension cord into the cabin as I park outside and have a heater and dehumidifier in the cabin. The plug is super short and just tucks into the NACA duct when flying. Seems to work well.

Nice. What is the blinky green LED to the left of the displays?

I like the knee technique on the lower cowl. I use a rubbermaid box for my K cowl as it is too long to use the knee method on.

Anybody happen to know the part number for the 14V model? I think it is 7.5VDC on the motor itself.

Good info. Funny, I find I use the manual wheel more than the electric trim. Holdback from my C172 days I think. Couple of hours of flying today and it seems my plane heard me talking about and now is functioning just fine...I spoke with my shop and they figure it might be the torque setting on the pitch servo clutch. I guess it is supposed to be checking regularly? Mine was last done in 2012.

Ignition has a big impact. I switched to fine wire and noticed a big difference. I have one mag at 450 hours that is notably weaker than the other which also impacts LOP ops for me.

Is this is bearing on the servo itself? How would a tight trim tube bearing impact the operation of the pitch servo which pull on different parts?

All good feedback guys, thanks. I will pass this on to my AME next week. As for the CWS function, mine has been disconnected since before I bought the plane due to an intermittent wiring issue. I was going to get it rewired and reinstated during this annual anyways. Clearly an issue with the pitch servo which is a great starting point for troubleshooting.

All good. We are both correct! I just spent some time poking through the manual and saw the spring arrangement. I just should just leave it alone and let my mechanic fix the damn thing week after next...

Hi, I don't think this is true for the K. There are pretty large lead weights under the glareshield on the yoke mechanism that force the yoke into a full nose-down state. What I was saying was the servo that pulls this doesn't seem to be able to counter this weight on it's own, but not sure that is a measure of anything useful. I do seem to have this isolated to the pitch servo mechanism so hopefully just a clutch adjustment or something simple.

OK, some updates and more questions: I got the AP to fail during ground testing now. Got two different beepy/blinky codes. First was 5 blinks/beeps before failure. Second was 2 after the failure. With pitch trim and yoke held i a mid position it was fine. When calling for climb yoke would move, but would trip out and fail after five or so second when the electric trim started moving. Similar in the down mode. Question: should the pitch trim be able to hold the yoke in position on the ground, no engine running against the yoke counterweights? It seems this is the issue with mine, it pulls in pitch but perhaps not enough or quick enough.

In the brief testing I did, I did notice the down pitch to limits, but don't recall testing the other direction. I will do so this weekend. I also have not been able to make it 'fail' on the ground yet.

Thanks for this. I was unsure how the electric trim and elevator servo work with each. It seems that the elevator trim cannot achieve what is needed then is activating electric trim and running. This seems to be a consistent pitch down at the end of these events.

Hi, I am working through some new AP or trim issues and trying to understand the baseline condition that I might have never noticed in the past. The issue: AP drops out with a flashing 'trim' alert when trying to maintain in ALT mode or in attitude mode. Electric trim works fine when no on AP. Heading and Nav modes work fine. Note that I don't seem to get the four beeps when pushing the test button anymore. Not sure what the beep codes mean. When on AP and before the drop out, the manual trim wheel cannot be turned by hand; is this normal as I have never noticed. It cannot be overwhelmed by hand, it feels locked and not the same feeling as pulling through the clutch when fighting against it in electric trim mode. This same sensation can be simulated on the manual wheel when only the left hand trim switch is activated, which I understand engages the clutch in the servo. Thoughts: Is this an AP issue or a trim/servo issue? The Trim indicator no longer comes on when I turn the elec trim switch/breaker on, but again unsure if that is normal or not. I have been poking at the bulkhead transition that the wiring pass through beside the battery box as it had a big gap and I am still chasing a potential CO issue. Broken or chafed wire perhaps? Any thoughts on where to look or likely culprits? Going into annual soon, but also would like to ensure I can point in the right direction versus random guess and test. Thanks,

Hi, at home it is literally laptop in my lap work or reading that I use them for. I do have to cock my head around to get the best focus band in them for sure. It is also likely my prescription has changes and due to COVID I don't really want to go see the doc. The prescription lenses have a bit of a prism as well, but I find 1.5 readers do just fine and use those at work and on the plane.

I just had mine rebuilt due to too much play in the turbine shaft. It has 1400 hours or so and original to that engine. No issues or oil burning noted, but an overzealous mechanic deemed it needing overhaul. I suppose better to overhaul before it started grinding the housing, but felt it a little premature. Note that mine is a 262 with the MB engine and is a different turbo than that in the LB and GB. Adding some further context: I run LOP and keep it less than 1600. but no CDT on mine. Not sure with the previous owner did.

I like this idea a lot! I'll see if I can get this done.

I've got the same thing going on here. 48 and need the readers for the plates and reading the ipad, but less so for instruments except at night. I did the same thing, hanging off the end of my nose and it seems to work. If I could find those half size readers it would be perfect! I have progressives that I use doing computer work, but can't walk around or drive with them and really don't need to ( totally destroys depth perception, but I am just not used to using them ). Flying with them did not work well either so went back to the cheap readers in the plane, the same ones I now scatter around the house and at work!

Aerostars are my kryptonite...Several excellent threads on them on Beechtalk recently.

Great to hear. The belt drive unit is easy to service. The other one requires tipping the engine forward.

2 and 5 the hottest for me. #2 is next to the oil cooler so probably loses some flow there. #5 is doubled with the ship's probe so not really sure if it is high or low. #2 is typically about 20-30 degrees warmer on mine too and is what I use to guide cowl flap opening. Also, I think the oil filler door is over #4...Continentals have #1 at the copilot side rearmost cylinder.

Respectfully, didn't you just acquire the P337? Is this an addition or a replacement for it? I am curious as to what drives your aircraft choices as you seem to go through them frequently. iain

Hi, What is on the other side of the split alternator switch? I have a similar 262 but with dual alternators and that switch has the two fields on it. I would think the alt noise would show up in all comm modes, but you should be seeing 13.7-13.9 if the alternator is charging, and certainly not less with the field off. I had issue with my gear drive alternator causing similar issue that turned out being a nut had fallen into the alt, rattled around and thrashed the windings. Was this the first flight with the new regulator? The noise has only occurred with the new regulator? If the alternator is truly gone, the regulator might be working overtime trying to boost the field into producing anything. Agreed it may be a bad diode or two causing the AC ripple in the system.

Thanks, I do like it. It is no Rocket but goes pretty well. It also has almost the whole catalog of Mod Works options it seems! Mathieu was a great steward of her and he took good care of her. It has been great so far. I consider an upgrade ( like we all do...) but have to really stretch to find something that can do all it can with any kind of improved utility or performance. I end up in Aerostar or Meridian territory and well outside my paygrade.