PeteMc

Went up to 6B6 today for an AOPA event. Restaurant it open and the fuel is $6.69 (less if you have an Acct with them). There going to be having more BBQ and also talking about live music. So if you're in the area, give it a thought.

Easiest thing I know of is to have FSS look up one of your old FPs and just copy over the info.

I thought the GPS decided as it got close to the IAF, but it may vary with manufacturer. Might be worth shooting Garmin an email to see if this is a know issue and/or if the way you're loading the approach has anything to do with it.

Any GPS or Approach NOTAMS? Any of the other locals talking about it?

That's sounds like the same concept George was working on.

George Braly (GAMI) was actually working on that for GA planes years ago. I wonder what ever happened to that project.

I was taught to drop the gear 1 dot above the GS (now that also includes the GP) or when getting within a mile of the FAF on a non precision approach. On the GS/GP with the power already set, you just start down. Dropping the gear a bit before the FAF on a non precision approach gets you slowed down so you can descend right after the FAF.

How good am I??? If you have to ask, you really wouldn't understand... [Sorry, I couldn't resist.]

By Tail or Spinner?????

I see that there's a 36W version of the Anker out there now. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08JX444KV/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1KWJVS57NX03I&psc=1 More power is always better on the long trips and the long summer days. Anyone happen to have tried it yet?

One other thought on the iPads in general... I really like my iPad Air with the finger print reader/power button. I don't need to worry about facial recognition or entering in the code while in turbulence. Just holding your finger on the reader/power button will unlock the iPad. Nice little feature while using it with FF. ADDED: Usually I just leave my iPad on. But if I'm on a long X-C with a couple of 4 hour legs and some additional flight planning in the middle, that's when I'll turn off the iPad for a while while in cruise and the Reader/Power button comes in handy. It used to mess up FF and I'd just turn the brightness way down, but after either an iOS update, FF update or both, turn off the iPad screen no longer poses any FF issues. Note: Going to assume it will mess up Breadcrumbs and Track Logs, but I don't use either of those.

2 MB is 2,000 KB 43 KB is 96.85% smaller than 2 MB

You cannot connect to both. You can Bluetooth to various types of devices at the same time (e.g iPad/FF to your GNX and iPad to say your headsets). But FF will not take Data from two GPS/ADS-B devices. There will be some downtime while you switch. But remember you do not navigate with FF. It is just a very convenient map with situational awareness. You still have your other instruments and the radio. But if for some bizarre and highly unlikely event takes out your panel, for the shortest downtime you might want to have your backup device on for the trip. This way it will already have a location and there will not be the typical power-on wait for it to find itself.

Neither of my iPads have have GPS in them. I connect one to my GTN (w/ FS-510) and my backup to my GNC. If I did not have the GNC as a second source, I also still have my Dual XGPS-190 that I keep with me in case there's an electrical issue (smoke, fire, etc.) and I need to shut down the Avionics. So I've never seen the need to pay the extra. (If you have an external source, but sure to check it after major FF or iOS updates.) But if you don't have multiple sources, then you might want to consider adding the Data/GPS option to your iPad purchase. Be sure to TEST it in the cockpit as the location of the iPad in the cockpit may have spotty GPS reception. So just know if you're going to have to move the iPad or not if you need to switch to the internal GPS. And it sounds like you've done the research, but as a note to anyone just now learning about the internal GPS option, you DO NOT need to activate the Data Plan part. No contract is needed. Up to you if you want the extra account, but the other reason I've never gone for the phone/GPS option is that I've always had a WiFi source, so no extra Data Plan was needed. In the remote places I was working I was that guy that installed the WiFi network for the conference or whatever. While flying/traveling I would use my phone's Hot Spot and if that failed, there was typically a WiFi network in the FBO. (And if you're phone Hot Spot fails, the odds are your internal iPad Data is not going to work either.)

I thought about getting one of your copies. But with then new panel and new avionics, a LOT of whats in the original diagram just isn't there any more...

Even the IRS will take an electronic signature. So you KNOW the Feds are good with it!!

No, you do not need GPS in the iPad and none of mine have GPS. Some people like to spend the extra for a Backup GPS, but I already have that covered with my DUAL XGPS190 (I keep it charged for long IFR flights). For your GNX-375 and ForeFlight connection, it's a simple process to pair the iPad Bluetooth to the 375. In addition to getting GPS and ADS-B data, you can also transfer flight plans between the 375 and FF.

If you have been using the same shop for a while, there's a good chance you'll be able to recover a lot of the info. Hopefully enough that would will make it a non issue if/when you go to sell the plane. Even if you've been using a couple of shops, there is a good chance they have a maintenance record in their system and possibly even copies of all the log entries if they print stickers. Some may have basically a duplicate of your maintenance logs in their system. Let us know what your A&P tells you when you talk to them. Hoping never to go through this, but would like to know the outcome. I'm guessing there may be and "official" FAA way to do this, but if you can collect various Invoices, Work Orders, Logbook Sticker entries, etc., then I'd assume the A&P just makes an entry in the new book that they attest that the attached materials is a good representation of the lost log entries and that the plane is Airworthy and all ADs have been complied with as of xx/xx/22.

I won't dispute that just like any other company, they're promoting the best results they got in their tests. However, I will say that the Merlyn Wastegate makes a HUGE difference in engine management on the K. Besides getting more performance up high, it greatly reduces the overboost concern at takeoff. It doesn't remove it, but it is much easier to add power and not worry about as much of a sudden huge overboost.

Installation Manual is probably something only authorized installers are allowed to have. And they'd probably loose their right to sell and do factory maintenance if they're caught releasing it. But the Maintenance Manual is there and I believe it shows most if not all of the setups. https://static.garmin.com/pumac/190-01007-c1_02.pdf

You can get the latest from Garmin https://support.garmin.com/en-US/aviation/issue/tabs/manuals?identifier=606798

And NOT WD40, use Tri-Flow as @M20F recommended. A lot of people think WD40 is a general lubricant, but it's more for penetrating and breaking things loose. It will not be long until the WD40 starts to collect "gunk" (technical term) and then the fan will really seize up.

+/-1000 just like before. I'm assuming it's a cable adjustment thing were someone set it and now to get to the same position on the actual throttle I need to twist that extra bit. And I guess I should have said "twists" since I do not mean a full turn. I'll guess one of my "twists" is about a half turn or maybe a little more, so it's approx two+ "turns" in. Just more than I used to have to do.

Actually, that's backwards. My mechanic was very clear after the change to use much less prime than I had been using and that is indicated in the POH. You're now injecting fuel into all the cylinders, not just one, so it is easy to over prime. In addition to having the old drain valves, this may be what got your partner with the hot start if you're both using the old priming or EXTRA priming as you indicated. For a cold start I use about half the prime I used to use based on the temperature and I make sure I give the fuel time to atomize. For a hot start, I give the fuel pump about 1 second to make sure the lines are primed, then start normally. And I'm not sure if it's just my throttle cable that was changed in an annual or a difference since the priming change, but I have to give the throttle an extra twist in. For years it was 3 turns in and since the priming change it is now 4.

I tried reaching out a couple of times over the years. I just never got a renewal notice years ago and it wasn't on my radar. By the time I realized it and reached out (a couple of times) I also never got a response. Sounds like the old guard may be looking for someone new to take over. Any takers maybe you should reach out to them and see if they're interested.