PeteMc

I think you're the first person I've seen in this discussion that remembered to raise their gear! I see a LOT of people raising their flaps, but no gear mentioned in their climb.

Sent...

I had sent you an email and a PM, but haven't heard back. I do not see anywhere on your website where to pre-order the LED Recognition Lights. Should I be going to WAT?

Actually, there's a really good Mooney Mechanic (MSC) out of N87, NJ but happens to have a place in GA and flies down there all the time. Bet you could convince him to do a quick consulting job to determine if your local shop can do it or if you should go to a MSC. A number of the northeast Mooney owners use him (many are here). Dave Mathiesen Air Mods & Repair 609-259-2400

I've never heard of glass wingtip lenses. What year J? And are you sure they're a Mooney lens or did maybe someone else try selling them in glass for a while? Head's spinning with lots of other questions, like how heavy are they? And we really are talking about the wingTIP lens, right?

I tried looking for the cost when I bought my Pulselite many years ago when I first put in my recognition lights in, but couldn't find the invoice on a quick pass. (Pre scan era. ) One really cool option is that you can go from the alternating to full on with the flip of a switch. Even with the existing hot bulbs, I used them in that mode briefly on some really low light nights at rural airports when I wanted to make sure I was really at a runway exit. With the LEDs, if true you can leave them on while on the ground, that will really improve taxi visibility and wingtip clearance.

Supposedly a direct replacement bulb for the existing lights. $250/ea and will be available towards the end of the year. There is another thread here on the topic. Search for: WAT 10% Off Oshkosh Promo Through July 31st

I'd suggest reaching out to one of the various "experts" that are out there, maybe one from one of the Universities or a known (to you) highly regarded institution could send you some studies. As you said, there are a LOT of experts that don't recommend going beyond 80% unless you're on a know high quality charger that takes a cue from the device that it needs to switch to Trickle Charge. Try as I might, I know that I often end up plugging into the car or plane to charge and, to my knowledge, NONE of those USB chargers are going to go into Trickle Charge mode. And if it were one or two articles/experts that were saying the 20% (some say 30%) to 80% charging, I'd agree that it may be skeptical. But that seems to be the consensuses of a LOT of experts in a LOT of publications. But when the numbers get that high, I tend to think it's valid until proven otherwise. And I'd think we would have heard something by now if people were contesting those recommendations. But hey, there are a lot of scammers and fake truths being spread around to make a lot of money these days. So maybe I'm just one of the gullible ones.

Not an overheating note, but just one all should remember for good iPad/electronics battery longevity... Do Not fully charge your iPad, phone, etc. for every day use. It's okay to fully charge it as needed, like before a full day of flying. But when you're sitting at home planning flights or using it to watch a movie, or even the morning before a short breakfast flight, don't just plug it in and leave it plugged in. That last 10-20% of charging is that hardest on the newer type batteries. But the newer type batteries do not mind multiple charging cycles as much as the older original iPad batteries did. So if the battery drops down to 40%, go ahead and charge it back to 80%. And this is better for the battery if you do it twice in a day vs. going to the full 100%. Also do not run the battery completely to 0, that 20-80% range is the sweet spot for most batteries.

Being in TX, would it be safe to assume the shop/hangar has air conditioning? Even if they don't crank it down to 60, they're still pulling a LOT of the humidity out of the air. So that should be a big plus.

The other big issue is CHARGING... Don't charge your iPad if you don't need to. If it's an hour or two flight and your battery is in good shape, don't plug in the power cord. As for air, @PT20J mentioned point the wemac vent down on the sidewall up at his iPad. I actually point the Pilot's roof vend down on my iPad just to get some air movement.

I recently heard of someone that was having an overheating issue and Apple Support claims that after looking at the logs it was a result of ForeFlight. Not that this isn't possible, but the recommendation was to uninstall FF and then reinstall it. Another way to keep the heat down is to turn off the display whenever you don't need it. This may mess up your Track Route or Breadcrumbs (I don't use either), but it should also help keep the iPad cool on these hot days.

Duh! Thanks.

So out of curiosity... Is the 9" clearance on a tail wheel aircraft while the tail wheel is touching the ground? (e.g. parked or slow taxi) Or while in the takeoff roll when the tail is elevated. And if it is 9" when the TW is down, does it then have a 7" clearance on the takeoff roll? (Some day I gotta get around to that endorsement...)

If we're talking engine monitors saving ones bacon, I'm in that group. A few years ago I was heading to KFRG from the west under the NY CBA and had just started my final descent to 500' to go alone the shore south of JFK. In the descent there was a slight burnt something smell, but it was summer and down low that's not totally uncommon. Once I got down the smell got just a little stronger, but this time the question is why do we still smell it where we were. And then a few seconds later it got stronger, but still no visible smoke. I'm now doing a major scan of the instruments and there is nothing apparently wrong. On my second pass around everything only a few seconds later I have no #5 cylinder. No major shaking, no major smoke, but the smell is getting stronger and I declared an Emergency to JFK Twr and kept scanning. At this point I was give or take 5NM SE of JFK and about 18NM to FRG when they asked "what are your intentions?" I had that half second thought of going to FRG since the engine *seemed* to be running smooth, but obviously with out the #5 cylinder, so I told them we were landing JFK. Had I not had an engine monitor, I would know know I lost a cylinder. The oil or stock CHT did not change and the engine was not shaking and no apparently loss of power. Turns out there was a BIG hole burned in the side of the cylinder in a place were the wall is think and the mechanic had never seen one fail there. It probably would not have taken much longer for it to seize. And there I'd be over marshland and water OR had I gotten closer to FRG, over residential areas with not a lot of off field options.

The link you posted for the bag appears to be out of stock. I was surprised how much the cost has dropped, when I looked at fireproof bags for batteries a couple of years ago they were $50 - $100US, now they're $20 - $40US. Here's on page I pulled up on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com.au/s?k=lithium+battery+fireproof+bag&ref=nb_sb_noss

Or you can flip the switch and have only the fuel flow info rotating through. The three position switch will displays Temps & Battery, All or Fuel Flow info.

Drat!! No LED replacement for the 70303 Wingtip Recognition Light????

Very true. Thought about that after I sent the other message.

Those funny little Red and Green ones. Though it can get confusing since the tail has a White Anchor light on it.

Wish I could make it this year. I'd like to see what their status is on the LED Wingtip Recognition light is. For the strobe/running lights, I put in the Orion 650s a few years ago.

Okay... am I missing something... Or is that the M does not have %Power listed on the Cruise Power Schedule?

What @EricJ said... Odds are you had something in your pocket that connected the + and - terminals/polls of the battery. Basically you caused a short circuit.

You didn't say how many years you've owned your K and how many hours/years you have with your current Logbooks. My guess is it's a non issue. Do you have the original US Marshal's Bill of Sale? Might be a great conversation piece for whomever buys it!!

Problem is, you don't know where it's coming from. With the window open or closed may not play as big a role and minimizing the potential CO source. My personal guess just from a logical standpoint in the K would be to open all the ceiling and the two side air vents all the way. Then CLOSE the center console heat and vent as the CO is likely coming in through that vent which is connected to the heater and travels through the engine compartment. It will be a cold descent from altitude even in the summer.