INA201

Thank you all for your input. I will give these guys a call and get some estimates rolling.

Looking to price some panel upgrades and ADSB. Any shop recommendations reasonably close to South Carolina? I've heard Lowe in Georgia is good. Looking for three to get estimates from. Thanks

I concede but to my defense I didn't start the thread. It's Friday night and how high can you go? I will say that Napoleon flew or rather drove a Cirrus model chariot that had a dark ages retro fit non PMA or DOT approved braking system because it would flip over in steep turns without it. Regardless of your chariot what do you guys "feel" about altitude. We all fly the same wing regardless.

Thought I would revive this thread from 2013. I don't have O2 but curious how many of us M20J guys have oxygen at their disposal? Have you guys climbed just to see how high it will go and what performance do you guys see when there? I'm typically a below 10,000 feet flyer but just curious. I want to try the limits of the J at some point.

That's what I was thinking! You guys clear up the misinformation scattered around out there. I'm ordering one tomorrow. Thanks guys I'm cleared for vertical. I'll talk to my mechanic as well.

I mentioned that I was interested in a vertical card to my avionics guy and he talked me out of it. He said they don't last long, something like a couple years and you would be fixing or replacing it. Are the verticals pretty reliable in comparison to the whiskeys?

Is the synthetic vision an add on or is it standard on these units? Pretty awesome I must say.

GPSS for 1 AMU? How about for a century 2b with a 430w? How does one do it for that price tag? Thanks

No ping pong for now. I edited the first post to include articles and items that we used to make the repairs. Dale, I didn't think about the explosion potential. Who knows there may have been a little ignition going on in there.

I Was wondering if anyone had an idea of the best glue to bond the interior vinyl trim pieces to the plastic. My thoughts are that a bond that can be pulled back apart would be ideal but I have no experience with this. Here are some useful links for plastic repair. The first link is what got my attention and inspired me to attempt the seeming futile effort of repairing all the cracked up beat up plastic. I used a combination of the information in these articles to make it all work but primarily used the items below to do all the plastic interior. The bottom pic was my worst piece so just wanted to show the before and after. Sand all areas with a coarse grit on backside of repairs to help the Plastifix bond. I was really satisfied with the repairs. https://www.polyvance.com/pfxinstrumentpanel.php http://www.airmod.com/articles/PDF/cpajul07.pdf http://www.airmod.com/articles/PDF/cpaaug07.pdf http://www.airmod.com/articles/PDF/cpasep07.pdf http://www.airmod.com/articles/PDF/cpanov07.pdf This is what I used. 1. Dremel tool 2. Plastifix for repairing holes. 3. 3m fiberglass repair tape in conjunction with plastifix to reinforce back of cracks and missing chunks. 4. https://www.polyvance.com/Hardset-Filler-1/2020-T/ 5. SEM color coat "Warm Grey", and "Super White." 6. 80, 100, 240, 320 grit sandpaper 7. Model airplane iron 8. Hair dryer 9. Fantastic original cleaner not the kind with bleach. I have a pirep for painting inside the plane namely the vents and the rear hatrack area. These pieces were difficult to remove so I taped it off and painted them in place. Some of you may know this trick but I used my shop vacuum very close to where I was painting(8" or so) to quickly suck out all of the fumes and dust that is created when spray painting. It works extremely well and no residue was anywhere inside the plane after painting as well as most of the fumes removed while the paint flashed off. I did and do recommend using a rated mask as well just in case for safety. I also had the exhaust from the vacuum aimed outside of the hanger. Thanks

It does appear that TruTrak is ahead at this point. I think it would be wise for us to collectively go for the same system as a whole for many reasons. 1. The company will know funding is there. 2. Technical problem solving through MS will be better. 3. We can push for more options with the company knowing that say 50 aircraft owners are committed to their product. Just my two cents

Any of you guys have a pirep on Avidyne's IFD 100 app? Thanks

Here you go. http://www.lasar.com/sales/checklist.asp

Folks, I just wanted to remind you guys to contact Tru Trak to help push the Mooneys. Sounds like they are going that direction at this point.

I need to get two new gaskets for my o&n bladder tank caps. Anyone know the best place to buy them? Thanks

+1 for the switch from Champion to Tempest massives. What are the merits of fine wire Tempests vs massive? Thanks

Man, both the Aerocomfort and Rmag's look great. I've got the plastic repair stuff to fix cracks/holes/paint and may try that route first to see how it turns out first. $600 for Aerocomfort certainly produces an excellent result. Rmag, did you do anything to smooth out wavyness and ripples in the plastic or just clean it up and paint it?

Howdy, I pulled the glareshield out of the J today because it was rubbing on the windshield(molding came off). I'm up for annual in a week so I was thinking of a way to try and improve its looks. It has some wavyness in the plastic and a couple of extra holes in it. Any ideas from what some of you guys may have done? Thank you guys in advance for your thoughts and ideas.

Done

Here it is! Call today! http://www.controller.com/listings/aircraft/for-sale/18129541/1977-mooney-m20j-201?dlr=1&pcid=17527&if=1

Huskys can land and takeoff in less than 500 feet. Assuming Mr. Ford can maximize the capabilities of the Husky then this is absolutely a nonevent in the practical sense. In the legal sense and in our sensationalized world it may be a different story. Heck the controllers may have just let it play out but won't say that in an interview or on camera. We've got a Husky here(untowered) and he just taxies far enough from the hangers and is up in a couple hundred feet.

How long do you guys hit the boost pump prior to cold starting? Sometimes I fire off on first blade and sometimes it takes a few rotations. I think I've always boosted too long but just curious.

This works for me as well. Just a caveat to this approach, if the plane has been sitting for say three hours. I crack the throttle with mixture all in(no boost) and usually fires up. We call that a warm start.

Thanks Bob, I'll give him a call and we can see how it turns out.

Has anyone thought their plane was well rigged and had it checked to find that it wasn't? Mine flies great and seems that everything lines up well but there is always that looming knot out there seeing how my J is around 154 knots.