INA201

Are those the Modworks STC doors or are they available elsewhere? Fit on a M20J? Looks like a better option than having the fairing back there but I'm guessing that either works pretty well.

Thanks jetdriven!, Can you and is it wise to do the caliper rotation with the installation of factory doors?

I've attached some quotes for the gear doors etc. Im not sure if the brake caliper rotation will help with speed with the appropriate gear doors installed on or not. I need to check with LASAR on that. I'm still digging around for the carbon/fiberglass doors as they appear to be more streamlined. So far Im planning on brake rotation, gear doors, and wheel well liner. I hope to get 5+ knots out of all this.

Thanks guys for your responses! The hump is a fiberglass fairing that is indicated in the parts manual. Without the inner gear doors I bet that fairing is slowing me down some. I'm currently seeing around 145 knots in cruise and felt that I shoujd be in the 150 range or a little more. I will PM test west and have e-mailed LASAR and see what comes out of that. If I can go carbon/glass versus metal I'm thinking it might be better. Lasar also sells some kind of wheel well baffle too. While we are at it might just go ahead and put that in too and see how it all works out.

I'm looking under my relatively new to me J and noticed marks where inner gear doors used to be. Looked it up in the parts catalog and sure enough I'm suppose to have them. What do you guys think the effect of not having these are? It seems like there would be a lot of turbulence where the opening is left along with the rear fairing there. While looking around I found what looks like carbon fiber doors on a modded up 201 but I couldn't find where they are sold. Does anyone have a solution that may be an improvement over stock or any other suggestions? I've attached some pictures. Thanks gang!

Just a note for this thread. I'm new to Mooney ownership and have O&N bladders that were installed in 1991. No issues with the tanks that I am aware of for 24 years. I don't have enough experience to make a judgement for which way would be best but the bladders have worked for this plane.

I spoke with Dan at Lasar and he said it was an Airright valve and that there isn't a rebuild kit available. He mentioned that the valve can get stepped on as well to mess it up. I am a new guy so I'm not sure what the currency exchange rate is into AMUs but he quoted $ 1484.00 for a replacement. On the other hand I spoke with Don at Airflow Performance who is based at KSPA(my home airport) and he said that he would rebuild it. Don has not seen the valve however. Don runs a certified repair station that works on fuel systems and works with folks like Sean Tucker on his Oracle aircraft. I feel comfortable letting Don look it over. What do you guys think? For the record I have enclosed new pictures for those who may need this reference. There is a very minor wobble in the stem but maybe it's just a torn up oring? I will let y'all know what transpires when the pros take a look. http://www.airflowperformance.com/html/site_html.html

It is a little stiff turning but I haven't tried lubricating it either. I can feel the detents very well but the turning is stiffer than it was prior to noticing the blue dye. Heck the stiffness may be in my head but based on any valve it should be more smooth imop. I'm a new Mooney owner of two months so still getting a feel for it all. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thank you guys.

Good evening, I have found a drop or two around the fuel selector on my 1978J. An old article in the MAPA log says to rebuild the selector. Are the Orings common that my mechanic should be able to handle the job or should it be sent to Lasar or an MSC? I'm located at KSPA if y'all Think I should run some place close. Thank you guys for your input on this. Sincerely Tangled up in Blue(dye)

My 3 and 4 cylinders would get into the low 400 range on occasion so I decided to redo the old baffling with silicone. I have been having the same problem with the new baffling flipping back. I was told to tighten up the baffling in the left and right sides to pull the baffling in so that it can't flip back. If you look at the photo it does seem that it should cup inward vs sticking straight up. I'm also seeing the ripple effect like jetdriven has. I'm thinking that tightening it in the corners will fix both issues. By the way, my CHTs are about 15-20 degrees cooler even with the flipping back ripple effect so I'm hoping tightening it up will subtract 15 more. Hopefully I will get to it this week and let you guys know.

Thanks! Which one did y'all use?

Is Jose a foot model? Thank you for your responses! It looks like Toluene, MEK, and or Trichloroethylene are the cleaners of choice. I used the plastic bag method on some plastic practice pieces with orange hand cleaner and it worked better than expected with a couple hours of elbow grease. I may just give that a shot and see how it goes.

Hey guys just wondering your thoughts on cleaning the floor pan of old glue and almost 40 years of goop on my 1978 Mooney M20J. I'm looking for a good cleaning product or products that will remove this stuff and not harm the aluminum? I was thinking of painting or maybe putting a wing walk type compound on the edges that are exposed from under the carpet. Have any of you guys cleaned this area up and what seems to work. It just looks rough. Thank you in advance for your replies.