RLCarter

After talking with Brittan multiple times for over a year it was always the same story "the people that make the bellows in California dropped and broke the mold", Brittain was the one that told me about the Beech part

I got mine from Preferred Airparts, it's my understanding that Beech is having them made due to Brittain's issues (Brittan use to make them for Beech)

Beechcraft part# 1551

The mold was damaged years ago and they had it repaired, but it wasn't done correctly and they haven't done anything about in 7 years or so. I did a ton of research and found out that it was the same bellows used on the Yaw damper of a King Air. I purchased the Beechcraft one and replaced mine. Will post the part number when I get home

Trust me I know...with a Lathe and a Mill in my garage top that off with people saying I cant do something has kept me up late more than once

A dime holding up a dollar, way easier to buy it

Check with http://www.planeplastics.com/index they should

I tried both years ago, stuck with Wing-X, just seemed easier to use

Glad to hear you're straightened up and flying right

It amazes me how many pilots pop off and say stupid things, I guess they think it makes them look good.......

@Tommy AD's can be found on the FAA's website HERE, Happy Searching

Hate to be a stickler but "split" flaps is a type of flap not a condition, as @M20Doc pointed out the condition is asymmetrical

Anytime you have a choice there will always be opinions, my tires & tubes were replaced due to age, they were 7+ yrs old but had very little use on them. My decision on the AirHawks was based on several things (1) I had used them on a 172 that was on lease back to a flight school and they held up (no failures) and lasted around 300 hrs if memory serves, which isn’t bad for a ton of less than perfect take offs, landings and unnecessary hard braking. (2) Admitting to myself that it could take time to master landing in the Mooney I saw no reason to wear out an expensive tire. Time will tell if I like them on my Mooney.

Need to get his guys to do mine. What kind of speed gain did you get and were they able to get it done while you waited?

@Tommy when it comes to tires they all have to meet a "minimum" of specifications, and how they do it is generally proprietary as far as construction and materials. The TCDS dictates the specifics and you get to sort out the rest. As I've said before the majority of failures can be traced back to improper inflation. There is 2 active threads on tires right now and someone posted that they had what they considered a cheaper quality tire on a main fail during a bad landing causing damage to the aircraft , while the higher quality tire on the other main did fine. My theory is the failed mains pressure was low for what ever reason and got the blame, tubes hold the air not the tire and unless the tire came apart (which I doubt) it didn't caused the problem. So short story long, install what meets the specs and then your budget.

LCD screens have a polarized film so you can read them, my digital clock/timer looked like that. You can buy a polarized film sheet with adhesive, I got mine from a guys that repairs cell phones and tablets. After cleaning the old stuff off I laid the new piece on it for orientation, it has to be kept square and if you rotate the film 90° it will invert the colors. Cheap fix (10 bucks) for an over priced $500 clock

Short answer is yes, tire manufacturers develop tires that meet the requirements for a variety of applications. When shopping tires, match the ply and load ratings and generally the speed rating will be there as well, then it just boils down to what your willing to pay. Keeping the tire pressure correct is the easiest way to get good life out of a tire.

@carusoam thanks for the reminder, maybe it will "stick" this time, or not.

Dot before title (turns to a star if you have committed) takes you to next unread post

Tires are actually part of the suspension, an 8 ply rating will give a harsher ride over a 6 ply. As far as wear goes that depends on the compound of the rubber, softer compounds give better traction but wear faster than a harder compound. Tire pressure plays probably the biggest role in a failure, air pressure changes roughly 1.5 psi per 10*F, low pressure on landing can allow the tire to rotate (slip) on the wheel at touch down which generally rips the valve stem from the tube, the harder the landing the more likely the tire will slip on the wheel. Here's the scenario, you take off with 25psi in a main on a 95*F day, at altitude the air temp in the tire drops to 50*F, rubber is a good insulator so the air temp in the tire only gets to 65* before landing, now your landing with less than 20psi in that tire, the tire spins on the wheel tearing the valve stem and then the fun begins......

Pun intended?

Send @DVA a pm, buddy just had his C there so it's a little early but from what I saw I wouldn't even hesitate, excellent communication and customer service

Id jump on it with a half ass pre-buy mainly just looking for corrosion on the airframe.

Be sure to ground the "T" so electrolysis doesn't get it, I would get your A&P to sign it off as his/her Labor rate is more than likely a lot cheaper than your Plumbers

Had (wife's car) a 97 T-Bird, both the radiator and intake manifold were plastic. Seems to be age that gets to them, car was 12yrs old when we sold it with just north of 35k miles