RLCarter

Not to go off topic but, Carb ice while Mooney's don't get carb ice very often they are not immune.

Congrats on starting your IR. after coming out from under the hood (breaking out) it takes a few seconds for your eyes to adjust to distances. 4 real life's for me, 2 for wildlife and 2 for aircraft, I've even been on a SWA flight that did a go around after the mains touched. Enjoy your training

Finding someone to take up has never been an issue but I'm fairly flexible if need be, which is good because flying solo to me has got to be the most boring thing I have ever done.

I'm in the process of replacing the fuel sending units and will be calibrating them along with a "dip stick". My tanks have already been drained so I can't check until I start filling them, there will be a slight difference as my plane has been leveled to calibrate the fuel gauges and a dip stick is used while sitting on the tires. With 26 gal. tanks (useable) 5.5 gal. would be 1gal. shy of a quarter tank.

CHT, Amp and Oil pressure are wired, had to reorder Oil temp sender (I ordered the wrong one). Fuel senders will go in Thursday and/or Friday, already drained the tanks and leveled the aircraft so they can be calibrated. My IA goes out of town on Tuesday, hopefully the Gauges, Annual and Shadin FF will be finished before he leaves

@Andy95W The hangar has been a tad warmish and I forgot to take pictures before final mounting. I removed all the gauges from the Frame then I removed the sides from the frame because they looked like they would interfere with a Radio rack on the left and the Avionics Master switch on the right (which they did). There was an existing screw (D) that runs through the gold anodized panel, the Instrument panel and the tube structure, I also removed the screws for the Manifold / Fuel Pressure gauge and moved it up out of the way. With (D) removed it allows the bottom flange on the Frame to slip between the tube and the instrument panel. With the Frame sitting in place I re-installed the gauges from the front and shifted the Frame slightly until it centered in the original panel overlay (best it could anyway) (B) is a mounting screw for the overlay, as you can see in the picture below the top flange on the Frame interferes with the MP/FP gauge and had to be marked and trimmed (area "A" on the drawing below). With area (A) trimmed and everything back in place I match drilled "D" and "B", "C" was a new hole drilled through the panel and the flange. It was actually fairly easy to fit the Frame & Gauges in place, I did not use a 4th mount in the lower RH corner as it would require drilling through the structural tube running along the bottom of the panel (the Garwin Cluster is held in with 2 screws). I didn't have to trim any of the original panel and only added one #6 screw hole. Here is drawing I did to help make up for the lack of pictures

This might shed more light on the step servo HERE

I went back with snaps, female on the carpet, male on the floor (PK screw to hold them), one per corner and a couple down the outside edges. You can get color matched snaps (or at least I found some) that blend into the carpet and you hardly even notice them

Alcohol is a terrible fuel engines, but some get that warm and fuzzy feeling when they think they are saving the planet

Cold temps are harder on batteries, but I feel your pain during the hotter months

And have better music

25 years ago Mogas was still gasoline, not sure what this crap is they are selling is now

I'm sure Canadian regulations differ from the FAA's regs, but I don't believe the FAA considers baffles and/or seals to be "Preventative Maintinance"

That's generally how it works.......

@M20Doc figures it would be on back order, might have to uncover the Mill & Lathe and make some chips

Thanks @Sabremech kinda what I was thinking, I even thought about machining a manifold with a ground screw , @Andy95W the photo above was just a quick fit to see how it would look (fit) there are no mounting holes drilled yet, I will be out at the hangar to properly mount the Frame and will take photos of where and how I mounted it.

Battery life can be drastically shortened if the battery was not initially set up correctly regardless of “Type” or “Brand”. Maintenance Free (No Filler Caps) now have the acid installed at the manufacture due to being overfilled in the field and still have to charged before installation, wet cell (filler caps) have to sit after the acid is added before charging (I generally let them sit overnight), not letting the plates to get fully saturated before charging will cause the dry spots in the plates to get burned, reducing the capacity of the battery. On wet cell batteries the water in the electrolyte will evaporate, heat accelerates the process so check you water levels more when in use and/or as the ambient temperature goes up. A low electrolyte level exposes the tops of the plates which will cause damage to the plates, if you find you are having to add water more than normal and the battery is not damaged (leaking) check your charging system as it is probably over charging causing excessive heat (evaporation).

While looking over the Electrical System Diagram for my "E" I noticed a couple of things that seemed odd so I checked the Original Maintenance Manual (out dated) and it showed the same. In the upper right corner (red) it shows a "Probe Temp Sensing-Carburetor, the others was the naming of the fuel sending units lower right corner (Red) "Fuel Quantity Transmitter Left" and "Gauge Unit Fuel Tank-Right". I have a large moving blanket that I will use to cover the windows to block out any light so I can see how bright the new clusters lighting is, if it too bright I will tie it into the dimmer. Question for @Sabremech how did you go about grounding the Oil Pressure sending unit?

I think it would depend on the level of contamination as far as smell and feel, their might be something else that turns 100LL as well.

Doesn't 100 LL go clear if it has been contaminated with Jet-A by design?

No spec for closed, only open

They do seem to be all over the board

Here ya go

As always LASAR delivers, my T-shirt came in today

I've used the local car wash several times, amazing how much dirt and crap that comes out....What did you use for tint, automotive style or static cling?