Aerodon

Iain, don’t give up yet. It might take three or four power cycles to recognize the 6 cylinders. And try putting the FF switch in different positions before powering up. Finally, get into the second level of programming (factory limits), and see if there is a 4/6 cylinder setting like the EDM800’s. Aerodon

And I have a couple of EDM700/800's that I could sell at a very reasonable price. I assume you have wiring in place, just check that it is JPI and not EI? Don

Brad, I think Rev 2.0 pictured above will fit - I can send the template to you to try. I'd like to leave a bit more material around the 6 mounting holes, but it does meet the specs that Garmin call out in the installation manual. Remember that the final is made out of 0.093, so its pretty sturdy. The hard part will be cutting the rectangular hole. Also, remember that this plate is about 3/8-1/2" behind the panel, so i don't think it will interfere with the NuLites. Don

Warren, You neglected to tell us this was the AOPA giveaway plane in 2001. Nice, how about the panel pictures, I'm sure its nice. Your sack is still very capable, heres what I would do and why: 1) replace GX60 with a GNS480 to get WAAS. The comm connector is identical, and depending on your indicator, most of the nav will be the same too. Lots of labour saving, and it will cross talk with your SL30. Sell your GX60 while it still has a good screen. 2) Replace your SL70 transponder with a GTX345 or 345R. The GNS480 will provide a position for this, and if you need a little more panel space, go for the remote version. 3) Once you start changing audio panels and mixing G530's with other avionics, you may as well start again with a GTN750. Don

I would do an Apollo SL15 audio panel / intercom now - not a big deal when interior is out, and more or less pin compatible with your KMA24. Then GTX33ES paired with your 480 to get ADSB out. Easy install if interior is out. If you have more money, then do a 345 or 345R, Aerodon

Bump this to the top. I have two systems ready to go, so can do the following combinations. Have various length antenna cables, let me know what you need. Send me an email for pictures. Aerodon supercub180@gmail.com System 1 - Used processor, used antenna (scuffed), used gasket, passes all internal tests. $2495 System 2 - Used processor, new antenna, new gasket, passes all internal tests $2950 System 3 - New processor, new antenna, new gasket. Made in 2011, never opened. $3950

And here's my EDM900 flush mount. I made all three styles - two screws above and below, two on either side, and the standard 8 hole JPI style. The JPI mount takes up a lot of space, and when you start trimming you can loose two or more mounting screws. I think I will try using the G5 style mount in the future, with the screws location chosen to match the neighbouring instruments. Aerodon

Here is Rev 2.0, I moved the 6 mounting screws closer to the G5 and trimmed the bracket to provide space for the adjacent instrument. But standard instruments can be as close as 1/4", so this might still be too big?

Any have a Century 21 wiring diagram - helping a friend re-organise his avionics with an Approach Hub and need to wire the 'autopilot connector' on the Hub to the Century 21. Regards, Aerodon supercub180@gmail.com

I researched the Trio, Trig and GFC500 for installation on a C172. 1) The Trio STC is being developed by a separate entity (to Trio) with a bit of an attitude problem, and I believe a bit of a copyright problem (on the web but not verified by me). The guy keeps whining how busy he is with his day job (Cisco) and his night job (STC Group), and basically told me to F-off when I asked him not to share my email address along with all his customers. He was sending project updates to his entire mailing list without using BCC. If he thinks he can succeed by pissing off the very small number of buyers who are willing to be first - then good luck. I'm glad he did, because the GFC500 is far superior. I looked at the C172 installation at OSH, and did not like the servo with a pushrod onto the cables. Seems goofy to me. I like the Trio autopilot head and features - seems like a great product. 2) The Trig guys were very helpful. I didn't really like the servo on the firewall connected directly to the control column. 3) GFC500 - Garmin have nailed it. The servos with the traditional 'bridle cable' onto control wires seem like the right way to go. I've seen the brackets and drawings fro a C182 and they look right. If you take the G5 out of the pricing, its the same price as the others. But you get tremendous additional value with the G5 - for a start, most Mooney owners can loose the vacuum system if they have an electric HSI already. And then it is going to be forwardly compatible with a second G5 etc. I've just been burned by the Navworx experience. Sitting staring at a $2000 brick right now. I am one to support new innovative companies, but at the end of the day, the smart thing to do is to buy from a manufacturer who can afford to carry a product for as long as Garmin do, have the engineering department to do it well, and something that is likely to add more resale value than say Trio / Trig. Regards, Don

Attached is a screen shot of an EDM900 flush mount. The top one is the standard '8 hole' JPI flush mount. The second two are my design similar to the Garmin G5 mount. A rectangular 0.093 plate is set back with 4 x 3/8" spacers to hold the EDM 'clamping ring'. The 4 holes can go anywhere around the perimeter. Top and bottom, or side by side. If I was cutting the panel at the same time, I would look at where the adjacent instrument screws are and then line them up so it looks neater. Thanks for the idea #jetdriven. Aerodon

Jpi make a flushmount like the Stein G5 mount. It has 8 mounting screws, although only 4 are needed. I can easily make a Garmin G5 plate and spacer style mount, the advantage would be that I can more easily customize the location of 4 mounting screws for aethestics are well as practicality. And by using smaller spacers, you can have the EDM900 protrude 1/8” like the G5, thanks for the idea, Aerodon

Teejay, just to be clear, the front plate shown above is the drilling / cutting template used to cut an existing panel. So yes, it will probably overlap. The Garmin rear plate is supplied larger than needed and needs to be trimmed to fit and the mounting holes drilled to match your choice of mounting holes. Garmin show two holes above and below, and one on each side. I chose a more symmetrical layout. I am machining a new front panel, with a matching rear plate. And yes, will probably machine some more metal off to allow space to the adjacent instruments. Its definitely a challenge to fit a flush mount G5 in. Don

JT, I'm busy drawing up and making a couple of M20J/K panels, here's where I am at so far. This is a result of surfing every available panel project I could find on Mooneyspace and the web. Personally I like the 3/4 and 1/4 panel, because it will allow the retention of the original circuit breaker panel, or replacing the circuit breaker panel first to hold all the wires in place before you deal with the main panel. The late model Mooneys have the same 3/4 and 1/4 layout. But once drawn, there is nothing stopping me from adding a line and cutting in different places. I'm picking up a used panel tomorrow (thanks Scott), then will do one more revision to the panel before cutting. I've got a good library of instrument shapes, but need to refine the perimeter and mounting holes. The goal is to be able to simply screw the new panel in place with a new set of instruments. Feel free to email me: supercub180@gmail.com Don

Steve, the earlier G5 installation manual said not to flush mount. The Stein Air is nice, needs to be riveted to the panel (I guess it could be screwed on). The issue is how comfortable the guy signing it out is going to be. The manual and STC is pretty specific, and allows the field fabrication of a plate out of 0.093 2024-T3. Garmin sell a plate for $95 and you need to trim it down to size, drill the mounting holes, cut it in half for single installations. I do all that for you and can custom locate the mounting holes and trimming. Thanks for your comments. Don

I had a look at the standard M20C panel, and don't think it can be modified to accept a flush mount G5. But here's this afternoons attempt at moving instruments around a bit, and installing an EDM900 to replace the Garmin gauges. I read the thread about the difficulties of installing gyro's in a tilted panel - seems to me the installation of dual G5's solves this problem, as it can accommodate as much as 15 degrees? I know it gets expensive real quick, but a dual G5 installation along with an EDM900 will remove quite a bit of weight and known 'failure points'. Aerodon supercub180@gmail.com

Garmin give some guidance on how much material you need to leave when you cut the panel. I'd suggest cutting out the shape of a single or dual G5, then trying on your panel. Then figure out where the 4 or 6 mounting screws can go. My sample has the mounting holes 3 15/16" apart, or 1/4" from the edge of the cutout. This leaves 3/16" between the edge of the hole and edge of the cutout, about the minimum you would want to have (1.5D). Garmin shows the top two screws above the unit, and bottom two screws on the side. If you sketch out what you need, I can easily modify my drawing and cut accordingly. Aerodon

Yes, single $50 / Double $75, although the reality is they both take me the same amount of time to setup and make.

I can provide a CAD and machining service to cut the backplate for a flush mount for single and dual Garmin G5 installations. The latest G5 installation manual gives instructions for cutting and trimming the Garmin mount, or instructions for fabricating a plate and spacers as shown. The location of the 6 (4) screws is discretionary, I can move them around as required. The top plate shown can be used as a drilling / cutting template. Aerodon supercub180@gmail.com.