Aerodon

Tom, I think my drawing will fit J's and K's, with or without the hump. I've drawn it 3/4 of the way across, but its easy to insert cut lines anywhere. The factory had the small 'ignition switch panel' - non floating. Then the main panel - floating. Then the radio start #1, and #2, then CB panel. I don't believe it's necessary to 'shock mount' the panels anymore, in fact you would want G5's and G3x's firmly mounted? So no point in having the separate 'key' panel on the LHS. Aerodon

I think you've got your numbers wrong, upgrading from a 700 to 830?. Yeah, I can do better than Chief's pricing, send me an email. supercub180@gmail.com Aerodon

I would use click bonds, my preferred supplier is: https://www.theflightshop.com/c.Click.Bond.Authorized.Dealer.html Expensive, but a lot easier to do in your situation. Make sure you prep the surface to get a good bond. Aerodon

My 2c. I don't think it has much to do with aerodynamics, but all to do with structure and weight. It starts with the decision to have an all moving vertical and horizontal stabilizer. Then to keep the loads on the hinge as low as possible, one needs to have the horizontal and vertical aerodynamic forces as close to the hinge as possible. Best way to do this is keep most of the structural weight and aerodynamic forces as far forward as possible = straight leading edge. Aerodon

Yup, still much more information in one place than a G5.

run it out to one of the inspection covers under the wing. A lot of work, but then a lot of confidence in the accuracy - in the shade away from any engine heat. Aerodon

I have built 20 hangars, and some comments: 1) Look at the layout of you site, a nice big rollup door on the side or back is really useful. 2) Doors and clearspan are expensive, so don't write of the 50Wx60D yet. two planes in a row will fit into a 60 ft deep. 50W is plenty for most private aircraft. I prefer having door full width so it ties nicely in with the walls. 3) Bifold without doubt. Schweiss or Hifold have served me well. Makes a nice shade awning when its open. I prefer not having a man-door in them, but you do need a man-door near the front of the hangar. 4) look for a manufacturer that can supply you with a pre-engineered package. Saves a lot on cost. Aerodon

So at any 1 point in time there are probably 1000 G5 or GFC500 installations in progress. Making the harness is no small task, and pulling it through the airframe is probably the most labor intensive aspects of an installation. What is an installer supposed to do - start again - to meet the Rev 17 install manual? Aerodon

OK, here's the next iteration with flush mount JPI and G5. And I have moved the radio stack left. I am going to try a single 3/4 panel with the radios mounted 'in front' of the panel rather than the traditional 6.25" column. I'm going for the minimalist look, with remote transponder and audio panel, remote DME, GTN750, GNC255, WX500 etc. I know that's a lot of eggs in one basket, but I have faith in new electronics, and the fallback to a GNC255/G5 display and no intercom. And a 660, and soon to be released 796 replacement. By adjusting the spacers, its possible to get the EDM900 and G5 flush with the 500Txi or G3x. I've shown a second G500txi, but that space is really for a flush mount iPad for the copilot to follow along. I still have a good KFC150, so will hold off the GFC500 - but there will be space for it at the top of the stack, just like turboprops and jets. Aerodon

Just messing around tonight. This is my M20K panel with a G500Txi 7" portrait with an EDM900 landscape and a 3.125" hole for a G5. I'll get my hands on a G3X panel template ad try that next. My understanding is that a G5 can backup a G3x. The EDM900 is a better / lower cost option than the Garmin EIS? The Mooney panel is already close to the pilot's eyes, so I'm thinking a G3x is big enough to read easily. I know the EDM900 is just fine in that location. Aerodon

Kevin, I have a cad file for the 231 and can lay out a nice panel for you and supply some hardware like an edm900. I’ve done a few Mooney panels, and my favourite layout is moving the flight instruments up and centred on the control column. Looking forward to doing a G3x. I also do matching G5 flush mounts for one stop service. I’m in Vancouver BC, and also can ship from WA state. I need input from you and your IA to qualify as an owner mfg part. I see no reason to shock mount the panel anymore, the new electronic displays are designed to be mounted in solid panels. Then you can combine the little LHS key switch panel into the main panel? The Garmin STC,s give enough information to allow remaking a panel. Personally, I think the odds of getting it right the first time yourself are remote. There’s too much of a learning curve with MFG drawing errors, paint clearances, interference behind the panel etc. AND, it is not an easy task to get the bottom formed with a 1/2” radius. I have a guy with a 120t press and a nice dye. I’ve posted a few panel pictures in my albums. I’ll be doing my own 252 shortly. Aerodon supercub180@gmail.com

OK, with all the new avionics out there, someone out have a SN3500 that they want to sell or trade? Will help you get what you need at best possible prices, and take your 3500 in trade. Aerodon

It always struck me as goofy that the Hi boost as a guard to prevent inadvertent operation but the primer switch does not. Why didn't you remove the primer switch, seems to me it is doing the same thing as the Hi switch? (or is it the same as the Lo switch?) Aerodon

I use aerohoseshop.com for all my hose assembly. They might have the information on hand already, or just give them the fittings and length required. They do a good job with firesleeving, labelling etc. Aerodon

Clickbond make these for fuel tanks. Epoxy into place.

I would not be surprised - it's only about 1.5" deep. I could live without the GFC500 controller and have all the features built into the G3X. But the 'emergency' blue button for straight and level is something you can brief your passenger about.

My money is on an induction leak. Compounded if you have a Merlyn waste gate. Mags or fuel icing won't do anything that regular. If the engine starts losing power at 20k, it's a massive downward spiral - less exhaust, less boost, less power, less exhaust. And maybe over rich mixture to boot. You lucky it didn't quit all together and only restart at a lower altitude. Quite frankly I'm surprised the power came back at all. Then at lower altitude, the induction system is not nearly as susceptible to induction leaks, including all the pies and fittings that control the merlyn and fuel flow. We once had a leaking merlyn control hose, and the engine was quite unstable until the manifold pressure was brought back to below ambient pressure. Then these hoses don't 'leak' inwards or outwards,. Second bet is on exhaust side of turbo - leaking clamps or joints, or bypass. But I don't see that 'repairing itself' and the white residue is easy to spot. Do let us know the end result. One final comment - I believe all 'mechanical' diversions are reported to the FAA, and they do follow up from time to time. So returning to flight without a proper diagnosis, repair and signature could cause you a problem. (I may well be misinformed with this statement). But personally, resuming flying with an unsolved problem will be really difficult to explain to the FAA or your insurance company if things were to go wrong. Aerodon

In my view, Garmin's flat rate charges are affordable and spread far apart - not unusual to have no repairs in 10 years. L3's charges are in the order of 50% of the original hardware cost. And they are not embarrassed when the equipment fails after 67 hours TTSN (WX500) or a fails 13 months after the last repair (TR497). What would the auto industry look like if you had to pay 25-50% of your car value for a 4 year old car. L3 made some nice stuff, and it was priced for the GA market at one stage. But they don't make it easy to keep it working. Why would you spend $5k fixing a TRC899 for the second time. In fact why bother fixing it the first time when all it gets you is maybe another year or two? Put that towards newer equipment that is more affordable to repair. I put Honewell / Bendix King in the same category. Having been directly exposed to both Honeywell and L3's ridiculous charges on older equipment - my solution is to cross them off my list. I really liked the Lynx, but the only thing that stopped me from buying was my experience that these would not be easy to repair in 5 years time. Aerodon

I cant say I’m sad. If you ever experienced the horrendous flat rate repair charges from L3, we should all drive them out of the GA business. And then support Mfg’s who are more reasonable. Aerodon

No, the 800 has an extra portion of the display at the top, to show RPM, % Pwr and MP. I have spare 700's and 800's for replacing bad displays.... Also do 830,900 and 930's 'upgrade packages'. Don

The Sandel needed a magnetometer and gyro to display heading. If that failed, the SN3308 would use 'track' for its heading. Identical except for crosswind. But I am looking at it as a building block to an eventual GFC500 installation. Don

And a digital flight recorder - if you install a 64GB microSD card in the G5, it records all the flight parameters for the FAA to analyze after you crash. Aerodon

I recently bought an SL30 and have ordered a G5/GMU11 to use as my #2 nav indicator and as a backup ATT indicator. No GPS input. I'll keep my 256/525/KFC150 for now, until ready to upgrade to a 500Txi. I have not fully researched it yet, easier to do with the install manual in front of me and the equipment wired up on the bench. 1) I don't recall seeing settings fro 3 G5's in the setup, but maybe when you plug the third one in? 2) I was planning on relying on the internal GPS, they work pretty well under the glare shield, even a metal one. If I'm using the serial in/out for the SL30, no ability to have a serial GPS in. I just hope it keeps working as an HSI if it loses GPS signal. A good used MD200 is $1600 a G5/GMU11 is 2550. So for an extra grand, you get something new, a second HSI, a backup AH and an upgrade path. Aerodon

It would not take much to persuade me to replace my KFC150 with a dual G5 / GFC500 combination. Aerodon

After a former life in developing mining and power generation projects, I am now a full blown hangar pimp. I've built and sold more than 20 hangars, currently have 8 'private' hangars for lease / sale, and just starting my next development for commercial hangars. I can say that T-hangars are the least popular, end units are better, box hangars are best. The space behind the wings is always useful, but check on the allowable uses. A T-hangar is only about 11% less area than a 40x30. It's easier to build boxes, and there can be economies of scale with back to back boxes etc. If you are in an increasing demand area, can sort of make the HELC and HOA numbers work now, in 10 years you will have no regrets. Nothing like the security of a roof over ones head, and the ability to fit it out as you please. I would say those numbers ($80k and $230pm) look reasonable for FTG. And serious proposal - I would be interested in starting a development at FTG if we already have 2 interested parties? Aerodon