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Aerodon

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Everything posted by Aerodon

  1. I sent mine to AWI a couple of years ago, was about $3k if I recall correctly.
  2. I have a spare 28V electric standby pump if anyone is looking to install. I'll have to look at the parts manual, I think you need a different vacuum manifold too, Aerodon
  3. Paul, I thought it was the other way around, they don't work on turbo planes, do work on normally aspirated. You need to reduce the manifold pressure to 5" below the ambient, so at sea level quite easy to do, at 10,000 feet not so easy. Aerodon
  4. I'm curious, what did the engine logs show that is not going to be fixed at the overhaul? Aerodon
  5. I don't think it is that easy, you need to know exactly where full is on the filler neck. Its easy to squeeze an extra 1-3G's in, and then you don't know if you low fuel is 1G or 4? I think it also important to know that the low level is calibrated in the annunciator panel, so there could be a variation from plane to plane, and year to year. And not work at all? For my own peace of mind, I would fly one tank to 'light on' and then drain the remaining fuel to know for sure. And then fill to the filler neck bottom, filler neck top, to know that for sure. But I'm one of those guys that is quite prepared to fly to 10G remaining, so need to know gauges, warning lights, JPI accuracy, and proper 'full'. Aerodon
  6. I have a complete spare exhaust. email coming. Aerodon
  7. Clearly you haven't looked at one before. The Mooney wiring diagrams have very little on the avionics, just the CB's. It's all the electrical, very detailed, great for troubleshooting and repairing. There are scans and pdf's floating around, but the proper drawing for your serial number is great to add to your airplane documentation. Aerodon
  8. I flew a C172 with GFC500 without pitch trim. It would alert you when needing to trim up or down, and I can tell you that it does not need much adjustment each time. So its clear that Garmin does not want the elevator servo working too hard, so I would apply the same logic to the rudder. Yes I would like the YD to hold the ball in the centre during the climb, but that could be 15 or 20 minutes with fair amount of force. I'll stick with the leg. And the 'Aerotrim' rudder trim would solve this problem, but I think it looks rather home made. Aerodon
  9. Be careful with this, I have a friend that has fried two batteries by spending too much time on his auxiliary 30A power supply connected to the plane. It's basically an unregulated charger over charging the batteries. Aerodon
  10. I have one spare used one if it helps? Aerodon
  11. The lean function needs to see all cylinders rising so that it can determine a peak. If one cylinders keeps dropping off the get-go, then its already peaked. Go check your fuel flow setup, maybe they changed something at the annual? Timing? Aerodon
  12. I still have the ones in bold above. Supercub180@gmail.com
  13. I have one for you, Aerodon supercub180@gmail.com
  14. You say you have a KN-57 - as far as I remember the KX170 series had this as a remote box for the ILS, and I don't see if you have tried or checked this out? You Aerodon
  15. I have a TSIO360MB core that I've started taking apart. The case and crank are the same, I could get these overhauled and you could use these to rebuild your broken engine? I'm sure regulations by country vary. But if you had a mid or low time engine, you could replace these parts and a cylinder, and continue where you left off. I've seen this done with a 200 hour engine, but obviously at some point it becomes worth overhauling. Aerodon
  16. Seems to me your guy did not do the whole conversion. Check to see if you have the drain valves with the 'dot' on one of the faces. My guess is if you have one of the old style, the fuel will drain out immediately. The new one will 'dam' the fuel until it is used in the starting, and overflow if you over prime. BTW, the small hole does not go through on mine, I have mixed answers on whether it should or not. I found the new priming system better than the old - it is more logical to prime every cylinder than one place in the manifold. My engine starts first time within a few cranks. Don
  17. Aerodon

    OPP Pedal Extensions

  18. I've delivered a plane for an inspection before, I don't think I would do it again. And I wouldn't expect the seller to deliver a plane off the airfield either. If I can' find someone there to go do it and if that shortens the list of available planes, then so be it. Aerodon
  19. The 'standard' M20J/K panels were built in multiple pieces. Ignition / Pilots side, radio stack 1 Radio stack 2 and circuit breaker. Mooney used numerous CPC connectors so they are easily removed and replaced. Later model Mooneys used a 2 piece (3/4 & 1/4) - this is the arrangement that I prefer because you can sort out all the circuit breakers first and install the panel later. The M20J/K radio mounts are 'flimsy' to say the least, and after they have been drilled a few times, they have to be replaced. I have used 'radiorax' several times - Mooney is not on the Radiorax 'AML' so you have to work with the installer to get them approved. They sell a slimline version that will allow two full radio stacks in the existing space. If you have a new 3/4 panel made, it can pick up all the old mounting points on the airframe, and the Radiorax are a far more robust way of attaching the trays to the panel and airframe. Here is a 3/4 panel I made with 2 x G3X's. You can't tell, but the radio stack moved about a 1/4" over. You could move it further, but then you have to think of what the 'bump' in the panel and glareshiled will look like. I have managed to find an older M20K glareshield without a bump, that will help clean up the 'look'. The more you stay with the standard Mooney layout and construction, the easier it is to get it signed out. I would not move the gear selector or gear override light very much. I think it is hard to have 2 G3X's and two radio stacks - give some though to remote transponders, audio panels etc. - it can fit in one stack. Aerodon
  20. I looked at pictures of a 252, and there seems to be a support bracket for the KFC150 autopilot servo along the seam. Aerodon
  21. Erik, I recall reading that the low fuel is calibrated in the annunciator unit. All the other annunciators are on / off, but the lo fuel needs to be set. If it's drifting, I would start with the annunciator. I'll browse through the maintenance manual sometime and see if I can find the reference. Aerodon
  22. I am told that all 'mechanical' diversions are reported to the FAA and that someone looks over the list and decides whether to follow up or not. I would imagine that all emergencies are too, or anything that generates an incident report. So I work on the assumption that it is going to happen. So, with any incident, it is reasonable to enquire about the airplane and its recent maintenance history. Even the pilot, was he qualified to fly, insurance etc. No different to a traffic stop, rules might be different in different states. And then was the problem properly fixed before the next flight. In Canada it is well defined, a pilot is allowed to perform the following elementary work. (17) removal and replacement of fuses, light bulbs and reflectors; (21) opening and closing of non-structural access panels; This would allow me to remove the one piece belly panel and replace a bulb. Then sign the journey log and I am done. But jiggling the wire to get it working again is not covered, and I am not qualified as a pilot to do that repair. And the bulb needs to be purchased through an approved supplier. On the M20K the floor bulb and annunciator light are in parallel. The POH shows that the gear position indicator is required for VFR flight. I would argue that the position indicator was working and at least 1 of the two lights was working. I would also argue that a flashlight could be used to check the position indicator. I do not know the FAA rules as well. But I suspect 'jiggling the wire' is not an approved repair, and if you did no logbook entry and flew, you have created an issue for yourself. Fessing up on the internet has created a paper trail, make no mistake the FAA reads through these blogs. I suspect and hope that it all turns out well for you. Personally, I think a tower fly by is a dumb thing to do. Know your airplane, listen to the gear going down, feel the clunk etc. Know your systems, if you have a second annunciator and it is working, there was no need to say anything to the tower. And if you 'alert the tower', don't be surprised if they escalate to a full emergency whether you declare or not. They don't need much of an excuse, and there's no upside on waiting until you do a wheels up or worse before calling the equipment. And the lesson to all of us, if you've opened the can of worms, make sure you do everything right afterwards. More than one plane has crashed after the owner has done some enroute repairs. And more than one jet has crashed because of landing light bulbs not working. Aerodon
  23. I had Aveo wingtips installed, and I could not see into the first bay in the wing. I realize that there are various wingtips, but unless they went looking with a borescope I doubt they would have found it from the inside. On the outside, it would look like a bit of body filler on some hangar rash. It was a pretty sh1tty repair, but I wouldn't put too much on Dmax. If I bought plane like that and the previous owner did that repair, I would not be happy. Just fix it and move on, it's not a perfect world. Aerodon
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