Aerodon

JPI sell a fuel flow tester that you can plug into your harness to test the wiring from the transducer back to the instrument. It simulates the pulses generated by the transducer and gives a steady state reading. But before you waste your time and money on that, try determine how old the transducer in your plane is? It's quite possible that it was reused from a previous JPI install, or even the factory hoskins or other unit? When they fail, the do go 'erratic' both low and high. Then the quickest and easiest fix is to replace the transducer and reprogram the K-factor in your EDM900. Aerodon

I can make a panel for you according to your instructions @rocketman. I have a 'tall format' panel to use as my initial template and a library of all the possible instrument shapes you could want to install. And I have access to a press brake to do the 1/2" radius at the bottom, Nextel 'Suade' panel paints and a large flatbed UV printer for the labels. It can be a bit of an iterative process - Mooney used flexible rubber shock mounts that tolerated a fair amount of misalignment. Modern instruments require a solidly mounted panel which is easily achieved with screws and spacers, but the positions on your plane might not be very accurate. Adjustments of 1/4 to 1/2 hole diameter are not unusual. So I would probably send a template for fitting and feedback before going to final. Aerodon supercub180@gmail.com

I have already measured and drawn all the inspection covers to cut on my CNC router. And purchased a bead roller to create the overlap. Busy learning how to create a proper overlap. My wing is protected by ACF50, and I prefer using CAD plated machine screws instead of stainless. I dip each one in ACF50 and they go in and out nicely. I find the stainless screws tend to bind with the nut plates and its the pressure required to unscrew that causes the deformation. Aerodon

Avionics shops should not be allowed near any sheetmetal. I have seen fuel tank panels taken off, holes drilled in wing skins & wing spars, spar carry throughs etc. Crappy antenna locations, pathetic doublers, no doublers etc. And nothing is ever straight. Aerodon

Look at sixpackaero.com. Lyle has put in a ton of research into C172's (even buying some wrecks to use for test fitting). Now he can crank out panels for any model 172 and has an STC to install a taller panel in earlier models so a G500txi will fit above the controls. Pricing is $695 for a bare two panel. It was higher, so he has sold enough to recoup some development costs. Painting and lettering would probably double that. I can do M20K panels and have started on earlier models. While I have a good library of shapes, it still takes a fair amount of time to lay it out and cut. Some people seem to think you can take it down to a local powder coater and get a factory finish. There are good powders, cheap powders, good applicators etc. I have settled on Nextel Suade panel paints, it looks really good and is very durable. And my next panel will have UV printed labels. Aerodon

On an M20K, the wires run through holes in front of the tank. I did not manage to fish the wires through without drilling out a couple of inspection panels. I made the mount out of 0.032, I think that was based on a drawing or instruction I found in one of the Garmin manuals (G3x, G5 etc). The manual recommend installing in a wing, but plan on redoing your nav and strobe lights so that the ground is run past the magnetometer to the fuselage. The bracket I made straddles a wing rib lightening hole and has the correct tilt. I can measure how far from the fuselage Mooney mounted the magnetometer on the left wing. I did a tail mount in a C172 a few years back, no interference issues (but i did run new grounds), but it would occasionally lose the heading signal. Don

the locking lever is on the tray just above the volume knob. If you can find a thin wedge to insert between the ADF and the tray to bulge the tray upwards, you might be able to unlock the ADF? there is a thin lip on the locking lever, so pushing the adf in before inserting the wedge, it might help?

Just fixed mine (86 M20K), the fuse is near the starter solenoid on the back of firewall , in front of the circuit breakers. Not fun getting in there. It could be the fuse, or one of the wires has broken off. Aerodon

I have an 18, 60 and 160G turtle-pac available for rent. Aerodon

I think it is more important to sync the wingtips than the tail? Aerodon

I take back what I said earlier, these are indeed brass Swagelok fittings. I understand the Swagelok fittings on the T and O2 gauge. The one on the Scott fitting is a little different. The tube is soldered in, the nut has a small hole on one of the flats. I'm wondering if there isn't some sort of overpressure protection or a filter built into that final assembly before it goes onto the O2 regulator. Aerodon

Yes, I took the 1lb brick out of the tail and then promptly added 11 lb's of Charley weights at the same location. I replaced the wingtips with Ave's, and had to add a combined strobe / aft nav light anyway. Aerodon

Yes, I'm doing a M20K panel, and replacing anything that might break. Some wiring, switches etc. can look just fine after 36 years, but one needs to be very realistic about physical and mechanical aging of wire, insulation, mounting clips etc. I have managed to remove several of the CPC connectors, sometimes splicing wires, sometimes just installing a new wire from one CB to the next. Helps to have a proper crimper and pins for the CPC connectors. And the proper pin removal tool makes removing and installing new pins quite satisfying. Aerodon

That does not look like a Swagelok to me? Attached is a picture of a Swagelok fitting used on a Piper O2 system. IIRC, the procedure for Swagelok is to finger tighten until it is on, then turn a certain number of 'flats', then measure with Go/Nogo gauge. I need to do some on my Piper, and will dig out the instructions again. Swagelok are hard to find or buy in small quantities, but once you have a part number, can be found. It looks more like the AN800 and AN805 fittings on aircraft spruce for primer systems. My rear panel is open at the moment, I will go look tomorrow and take some pictures. Aerodon

I had something similar in my Seneca, replaced the roll servo. I'm not sure you can test anything like this on the ground, its an issue of the servo / clutch / feedback loop not being correct. Aerodon

FWIW, the story I heard that makes sense was that when Mooney developed the Encore, they took the parts on hand from the long body production line and just used those. I got most of my parts for the conversion off a 1996 M20M. Aerodon

I think you meant 1600 ft2 of drawings?

Yes, you'll need a GI-275 to interface to a KFC200/KFC150. Delivery and installation and scheduling installation will take months. In the meantime I have a working when removed KI256. Aerodon

I had a KAP200 changed to a KFC200 - needed a new board in the A/P computer, changed the KG258 for a KI256 indicator and changed the mode controller. Cost a few thousand in 2001, but well worth the effort. No altitude capture ovalaible on that version of the KFC200. I would think that a FD on a KFC150 would be an easy upgrade. And probably not too difficult to do a KAS297 vertical speed with altitude capture. First step is to look at the dash numbers and buttons on the autopilot controller. I would do it. Aerodon

Steve, what is the issue - do you have a straight or differential fuel pressure transducer? Aerodon

That part number shows up on Textron's website, used in King Airs. Maybe NAC can get some? I have these click bond nut plates that are used in fuel tanks, but the key to making sure they stick is surface preparation, and you will end up damaging your tank sealant? I like click bonds, but won't ever install one where I can't get to it in case the epoxy lets go. Aerodon

This is a remote transponder with GPS and new install kit. This is the one you need if you don't have a GTN to control it, it can be controlled with a G3X or GI-275. Priced with a horizontal tray, but I can substitute a vertical tray for $500 more. (its a $900 option from Garmin). If you don't need the GPS version, I have a standard GTX345R for $5000. supercub180@gmail.com Aerodon

I decided to go in a different direction and have a GDL69A (music and XM, not SXM) with a CI401-460 antenna and wiring harness for sale $2,250. I have a new GA37 GPS/XM antenna to go with it for $600. Aerodon

Easy addition to a JPI EDM700. Will not work with G5's, that requires a different style OAT probe and a GMU15. Aerodon.

Someone must have serial number 25-0172 to 0246