Aerodon

I think you meant 1600 ft2 of drawings?

Yes, you'll need a GI-275 to interface to a KFC200/KFC150. Delivery and installation and scheduling installation will take months. In the meantime I have a working when removed KI256. Aerodon

I had a KAP200 changed to a KFC200 - needed a new board in the A/P computer, changed the KG258 for a KI256 indicator and changed the mode controller. Cost a few thousand in 2001, but well worth the effort. No altitude capture ovalaible on that version of the KFC200. I would think that a FD on a KFC150 would be an easy upgrade. And probably not too difficult to do a KAS297 vertical speed with altitude capture. First step is to look at the dash numbers and buttons on the autopilot controller. I would do it. Aerodon

Steve, what is the issue - do you have a straight or differential fuel pressure transducer? Aerodon

That part number shows up on Textron's website, used in King Airs. Maybe NAC can get some? I have these click bond nut plates that are used in fuel tanks, but the key to making sure they stick is surface preparation, and you will end up damaging your tank sealant? I like click bonds, but won't ever install one where I can't get to it in case the epoxy lets go. Aerodon

This is a remote transponder with GPS and new install kit. This is the one you need if you don't have a GTN to control it, it can be controlled with a G3X or GI-275. Priced with a horizontal tray, but I can substitute a vertical tray for $500 more. (its a $900 option from Garmin). If you don't need the GPS version, I have a standard GTX345R for $5000. supercub180@gmail.com Aerodon

I decided to go in a different direction and have a GDL69A (music and XM, not SXM) with a CI401-460 antenna and wiring harness for sale $2,250. I have a new GA37 GPS/XM antenna to go with it for $600. Aerodon

Easy addition to a JPI EDM700. Will not work with G5's, that requires a different style OAT probe and a GMU15. Aerodon.

Someone must have serial number 25-0172 to 0246

Hi have the following for sale from a 28V 252: 1) Engine gauge cluster 2) Tachometer (2.25") 3) MP Gauge (2.25") and transducer 4) ASI 5) KAS297B altitude preselect 6) KEA130A altimeter 7) KI525A system 8) KI256 Flight Director 9) Ammeter (3 way - Alt 1, Alt 2, Load) (and V by pushing a button). Also have the shunts if needed. 10) Standby vacuum system with dual manifold 11) WX10A stormscope 12) Gear up/down switch with override button 13) Panel / Glare shield dimmer box complete with knobs SOLD These were all working when removed, hopefully they can help someone keep their panel going. Aerodon

Yes, the Seneca relay was something like that, looked more like something you would install in a tractor. I would definitely be replacing a spade connect relay with something better. The Kissling relay that I have is 100A, with nice studs/lock washers and nuts for good reliable connections. And it makes sense to have a nice heavy duty 100A relay to switch maybe 20A/28V on at once. Aerodon

I have a spare 28V avionics relay from a 1996 M20. But I am curious as to how yours failed - the relays are supposed to be 'normally closed' (on) and held in the off position by power. In my Seneca, the voltage could drop during cranking, bringing the avionics momentarily on. Aerodon

I just finished mine. If you locate outboard of the gear leg like the factory does, you need to drill off two inspection covers and use a welding rod or music wire to help thread it through the pre-existing holes in the ribs. Less than an hour of extra work, but be sure to have replacement 'soft' countersunk pop rivets on hand. Aerodon

I have several of these, new, will supply with 18' wire to mount on an inspection panel outboard of the wing like the factory does it. $175plus $10 shipping. Also have numerous other probes, transducers and harnesses in stock. supercub180@gmail.com Aerodon

And the cylinders on the MB/SB are different and twice the price. I have a whole TSIO360MB core that you can buy. But without an STC too install it in your airframe, it is useless. I recently converted an MB to SB using this service bulletin and the Mooney instructions (they added one more part, an exhaust outlet support bracket), and the Mooney instructions / approval to convert from a 252 to an 'Encore'. You are better off selling the 231 and buying a 252 or Encore, it is no longer possible to use the STC that allowed a 231 to 252, and there never was an STC to go from 231 to Encore. Aerodon

I'm doing this now on a K. Installing on the 'pop riveted in' panel outboard of the fuel tank, just like the OEM probe. One on the RHS for the JPI, one on the LHS for the Garmin. It's a lot of work, but I think it is worth getting away from the fuselage and the leading edge, as per the Garmin installation drawings. I have spare JPI OAT probes with 18' wires if anyone needs one. Aerodon

I disagree, GAMi does not need a set of data, I have installed 4 sets of GAMI's in TSIO360's and all had excellent results out of the box. GAMi will start fine tuning if you are not getting good results after installing. (Yes, if you have a MB or SB engine you need data first). The priority is to get a good set of injectors in, so you more or less eliminate that variable. Also you would not want to have to repeat the fuel setup process again after installing the GAMis would you? It's a fairly time consuming process, I would guess a few hours at least. The reason I say engine monitor second, is you know you are going to install one eventually, so do it early to be able to do the GAMi test and also gain knowledge on how your engine is running. I know the Continental SB, and it is supposed to be done every year (especially if you need to maintain a cylinder or engine warranty). But if you have a lot of data, you will know if you need to make any adjustments. This test was invented before the advent of 6 cylinder engine monitors and before GAMi's etc. When my engines are running fine, I'm not about to go through the whole setup again just to feel better. Aerodon

I think you are over thinking this. First, get a set of GAMi's, your engine will run better and they are easy to fit during an oil change. Second, get a 6 cylinder engine monitor with fuel flow. Third make sure your engine fuel pump is properly setup according to the Continental SB. A good mechanic will be able to use the engine monitor and tell you if everything is more or less right without doing this SB. Fourth, get a new CFI, if he can't teach you how to manage the engine, what else is he not teaching you? I think you are off the mark speculating about a standing wave. Prior to GAMi, the belief was that there was an imbalance in airflow to the middle and aft cylinders. Continental spent millions fixing it with the MB engines. After GAMi's came along, it is well understood that with continuous flow injectors, when the front intake valve is closed, the fuel is injected into the stationary air, evaporates, expands and some is carried backwards. It is a very precise amount, and very repeatable, solved by a set of off the shelf GAMi injectors. Aerodon

Often those references to the accessories, from memory the MB4B is the 24V version of the MB2B. Yes it would be good to have a table to decipher. Aerodon

got it, will reply. Aerodon

I have a complete dimmer unit with fuses if it turns out to be more than the fuse. Aerodon

The 172's up to an M model had 'infinitely variable' flap settings with an indicator a a VFE=85kts. The N model onwards have no indicator, but a 'stepped' flap selector. So the first 10 degrees allows VFE=110kts, a 29% improvement over the 85KTS limitation for 40 degrees flaps. Interestingly enough, there is no further reduction from the 85kts for the 172's with 40 flaps vs. 30 flaps. My Seneca has flap extention speeds as follows: 10/140 KIAS, 25/122 KIAS, 40/115 KIAS. And very definitive notches on the flap lever. A 22% improvement in range. The Seneca has a 130 gear extension speed, and the residual thrust of 2 engines has the effect of making it quite hard to slow down. I remember once been cleared for the ILS at KBFI while I was still 50nm out. It was fun cruising down the GS at 180kts until I couldn't slow down. I eventually had both engines at 15", the gear warning going off and had to level off, slow down, get gear and all the flaps out, then dive bomb the GS from above. Spoilers would be nice. So from a stress point of view, My K has a VFE of 109 its, but it is the same wing and flap system as the J model with the 125KIAS limitation for 10 degrees. Some might extrapolate that this will be OK in a K model, provided you have a way of accurately determine the 10 degree mark. Aerodon

First, there are several versions of the software installed in an EDM700, so you may not have the 'icicle' display and LOP installed? See if you can see what version is installed during the start sequence? Second, the delta T is on CHT's not EGT's. The difference in EGT's is not at all important, what counts is the peak. Third, use the normal 'ROP' peak function to record which cylinder peaks first and what the fuel flow is? Then use the 'LOP' function to find out what the last cylinder to peak, and what fuel flow. The difference is the famous GAMi spread. Finally, I think you are chasing you tail with a carbureted engine. I tried hard on my 180 hp 172 to use the JPI but it would always start running rough before finding a LOP cylinder, so I never could get the LOP function to work. I was also not happy with the fuel flow, it seemed about 1 GPH higher than my previous 180hp C172. We did a top overhaul with 4 matching cylinders and it runs much better, at about 1 GPH less. Two of the 4 old cylinders were original, and the two replacements were the worst - must have been 'low cost / poor condition / return to service' kind replacements. Much happier with the new cylinders. Aerodon

There are a few simple rules: 1) Alway open the hangar doors fully. Mark wheel lines and have permanent chocks. 2) Never leave the towbar on the plane. You are either using it, or not. 3) Never let go of the gear lever until you have verified its down 4) Always leave a beacon on, always look back at your plane to admire it and check master off. (does not help with cabin lights though). Aerodon

Looks like a pulse lite has been installed. One switch powers both steady. One does pulse. If both are on, light should be steady. Aerodon