Ragsf15e

Definitely use the adapter instead of hard wired. There’s already a fuse or circuit breaker. It might take a few $15 tries to get the right one as described above. Mine also shows bus voltage which is a nice comparison to my jpi.

Kogd (Ogden) tower has been terrible for this a few times. I came in one day and they were just screaming at a local helicopter pilot. Very unprofessional, but also a significant detractor from everyone else’s SA. I asked for the tower supervisors phone number and eventually talked to him (he wasn’t in the tower at the time). Im sure pilots (me too) do stupid stuff from time to time and a quick mention of “you missed 3 radio calls” or “when i say X i need you to acknowledge” is fine but screaming at someone is going to cause way more problems than it solves. Get or give a phone number and deal with it when everyone is safely at zero knots.

I studied ME as well because I kept “letting out the smoke”… that being said, I’ve heard of that condition but hadn’t heard anything specific causing it. I have used a vacuum in my F when the seats were out and nothing weird happened.

True, but lots of those don’t require a type (PA-46 being an easy example). I don’t think a PC-12 or Epic do either and they probably have more hp than the pc-9.

I think an emergency is pretty much up to the pilot. If the PIC thinks it’s an emergency, then it is. If they want priority, who am I to disagree? I had a door open in my Mooney once and didn’t declare an emergency but if someone needs that to get down safely, more power to them.

You southerners complaining about copperheads is funny… you should be complaining about the cottonmouths! I lived in Alabama for a year and played s lot of golf. If you hit your ball in the water, you didn’t go looking for it! Those dang cottonmouths were aggressive! Had one sitting on a cartpath once as we walked by and he took a fake strike at my friend who happened to be an exchange student from Australia. He grabbed a 9 iron and went after that snake quicker than you can say, “He had a go at you, mate!” We had to talk him down from chasing it off into the bushes.

Im not convinced “staying in the pattern” is best. After I’ve had cylinders replaced, Ive definitely hung around an airport, but Ive tended to climb to 5-6000’ over the airport and then fly around a bit. I think adding in traffic and pattern procedures and comm etc as well as being in less than ideal position to glide back to the correct runway (say crosswind to dw turn) might add more issues than it solves. I live in a relatively less busy area though and climbing that high over an airfield might be a luxury some people don’t have.

Just from the head I’d say venomous, but what kind of snake is that? I’m lucky to live somewhere that has very few rattlesnakes and no other venomous snakes, so when the kids and I see one we usually get to hold the nice garter snake!

Talk to your IA before tackling the governor. Maybe it’s the governor, but there’s a low pitch stop as well that’s not on the governor. I agree you should see much closer to 2700 for takeoff and climb. I might also recommend leaning to ~100 rop depending on your chts to get to max speed. You’ll be closer to max power. Just keep an eye on cht and go a little richer if required to keep them below about 380ish.

One thing is to decide if you want the extra box to display temp/winds/TAS on the G5s. I don’t have it because I didn’t want to add an additional temp probe- it will need its own.

I have an stec 30-a. Works great! Do you also have something feeding adsb to your 430w? I actually like the traffic on that display.

You have the warning microswitch. The squat switch vs airspeed switch is year depending but those two things prevent the gear from coming up at all (one with weight on wheels, one below a certain airspeed). The microswitch is for the warning. I’d look behind the panel first.

I think it’s an excellent combo! I just flew that exact setup ifr to Seattle and back to Spokane. What autopilot do you have? I don’t have the flight stream and I’m still happy with it.

Here’s my temps at peak egt, 10500’, midd OAT. The SF is advancing pretty good this high.

Test button might be dependent on year. Mine is older and no test button…

To be fair, the SF also only advances below ~25 MP. They no longer publish exactly the advance schedule, but the early ones had a graph that showed it start around 25”. You’re right they use rpm as well.

I think you’d have to fly at higher altitudes and LOP to see much benefit from the advance. @N201MKTurbo gave me a masters class in why there’s a difference in lop w advance and none rop but I forgot most of what he said. Seeing that you have an M20C, Im guessing you’re not LOP.

Maybe another thought is replacing the field cb? It’s unlikely the cause but it’s cheap, easy, and you’ll make sure all the connections there are good. do you by chance have an engine monitor? You might set it to 1 second recording and look to see if it catches any electrical excursions at the time the cb pops?

Well I was at a 500 hr oh anyway, so that made it feel like a good time. It does start a little easier but I never really had a problem with that. One really nice thing that I didn’t anticipate is that the timing never slips. It always has about a 30 to 50 RPM drop on a mag check. It’s been that way for ~5 years with zero change. No mx is nice!

Yes. Here’s my original thread on it. I have much more data now and it’s ~3kts at 10,000’ when lean of peak. Obviously that’s an average because cg, temp, weight play a big role. On the charts you will see there’s no change down lower since there’s no advance.

Definitely look at the throttle switch closely first. That’s the most likely to do this and easiest to fix.

I have had mine for ~4 years and 400 hours. I have had the advance timing set on the entire time. I would do it exactly the same again. The SF has been great, and the advance timing gives a measurable increase in speed at higher altitudes when lean of peak. Rich of peak, well it’s there but not really much. I have not had temp issues unless i try to run peak at high altitudes and hot oat. I have a good engine monitor to back this up. We did put mine on the left and remove the sos but apparently it’s an option to put it on tge right and rewire the key to start on both mags.

As an aside, I got an annual done several years ago at one of the shops you use for annuals. Good shop. Expensive. They found an issue with one of my trim rods requiring replacement (thank goodness Mooney was quick-ish). They replaced the rod and finished my annual. When i picked it up, I did a very thorough inspection and noticed that the paint below the tail pivot seemed different but I really wasn’t sure. Trim was set to the middle (to) position. I was disturbed by the fact that the tail and the trim indicator might be different and they told me, yeah it might be out of whack after we had the trim all apart. Let us know how it feels and we can adjust the indicator. Well, I thought it through and took off with the trim centered. Airplane was trimmed very nose up so it was exciting but i was mostly ready for it. After landing I looked and the paint was lined up as I thought it had use to look but my trim was way off center. I had them set that to TO trim. So maybe it’s not an exact science…

You going for the vacuum pump with Dyson?

Too many variables to say for sure. You want a top shop, all squawks fixed, zero owner help? It’s likely more. You want owner assisted, in your hangar, local IA, it might be $1500. Mine at a local shop in Washington with me doing all the opening and closing of all panels (that’s a lot of screws) has been ~$2500 for just the inspection. Squawks extra of course. I believe the inspection is about 35-40 hours on the Mooney checklist, so maybe im wrong and it’s a bit more $$ (remember, im doing a good bit of the work). My shop is at $120/hr.