Ragsf15e

If you’re mooney doesn’t stall relatively straight ahead during a coordinated stall, it’s set up wrong and should be fixed. There are stall strips on the leading edge of the wing that are set at the factory but can get moved during say painting or other maintenance that affect the stall characteristics.

Oh good, so then it’s even more clear. We should all be able to do that pretty easily and with confidence!

I agree with the upset course, but I think we should all be able to do “full coordinated stalls”. I guess Id leave it to each of us to decide if the buffet or stall horn is far enough since that’s what we do on the private pilot exam now, however, I think it’s worthwhile for everyone to be confident enough to take their airplane to a full coordinated stalls. Turning, configured, power on/off, etc. these are easy to do and will improve your muscle memory and confidence in the airplane. It shouldn’t take a special instructor for this.

Id say restaurant. Someone dumped the fry oil in it too.

Do these exist? And if so, I’m betting they have a reason, but I agree, id be interested to know why?

This thread is a dumpster fire.

Do C models climb cooler at lower rpm? Generally “new age” GA technique is to climb at full rpm and full mp.

Dang, price is right too!

There are some other threads on lenses… possibly from gallager aviation or the folks that make the plexiglass windows. I also think there’s a thread on cutting your own if it’s the nose one and not the wing. Which one do you need?

We did practice that kind of stuff a lot in the T-6, but it’s also what we were teaching our students, so were we practicing to be more proficient or to teach it better? Maybe hard to separate. As you say, you never intend to get slow/turning/configured/etc but it can definitely happen unexpectedly and that’s why I think it’s worth practicing. Say for example you are on downwind abeam the numbers and drop gear/TO flaps and the controller asks you for a right 360 to deconflict with traffic on final. I wouldn’t intend to get slow and near stall, but there’s a lot going on with the airplane, traffic and communication. You could unintentionally end up leaving the throttle back and trying to make a level 360. Just to be clear though, I don’t go practice uncoordinated stalls or incipient spins. I did it a couple times at high altitude to see what it would look like. I do practice taking coordinated stalls to both a good buffet and to a break though.

Yes, when I did it, it was also pretty close. It also accelerated rapidly during the recovery (in idle) because the nose was pointed very nearly straight down.

I go out and practice stalls in all different configurations and attitudes maybe once every other month. Yes, i do turning configered stalls as part of that. While you should never get there unexpectedly, I believe it makes you recognize what’s happening quicker and drills the recovery into subconscious so it doesn’t require thinking about it. I guess I just think doing it once in a while will make you a better stick and rudder pilot which doesn’t hurt any of us. I would say (and this might not apply to you), that anyone a little nervous about doing stalls by themselves should fly with an instructor with the goal of building their confidence enough to do it alone and unafraid from now on. I volunteer to sit right seat for anyone who needs that and wants to come to Spokane.

No, however, I do believe they could be high at times. After starting the Meridian (which is a significant draw), it will go to around 100amps for a minute or two and then come down to the normal ~38. That’s a much bigger 24v battery but it gives an idea. That gen is rated at 170amp continuous.

Hmm, works on my computer but Iphoney didn't like it. Here are my thoughts... 1. Is that shag carpet on the glareshield? 2. It went very nearly inverted during the "incipient" portion before stabilizing in a nice nose low spin. I think the Mooney is likely to do similar and be eye opening. 3. Did he have the power full/80% to start? I see the rpm drop off when he goes to recover, but it starts at ~2300 rpm. Not sure if that's ok or not? Other airplanes I've flown required us to be in idle before spinning to avoid excessive stress on the engine.

Ok ill try it there because i want to see!

Ok ill try it there because i want to see!

It only loaded a picture, i want the video!!

I’ve been using a ge cync smartplug on mine and haven’t had an issue. In fact, I have it connected to both the engine heater and a heat lamp to melt a troublesome icey spot that can block my hangar wheels. It seems to handle a significant draw just fine. You’re sure that the switch turned on? I might plug a lamp into it and switch it on and off a few times (remotely) to make sure…

On their faqs, they say a typical lead acid battery will draw ~40amps for 4 minutes immediately after a normal start. I don’t think I see quite that high, but maybe?

I went ahead and read the faq on their website: https://earthxbatteries.com/faqs/ basically, it’s only limited by your max alternator output. They claim it only draws ~60 amps for 3 minutes following a normal start so it won’t hurt anything. I would feel more comfortable with a lower draw. I might be a fence-sitter on this one and see how it turns out.

Can you please tell us if the bms limits charging amps or will it draw high/unlimited/as much as the alternator can deliver if the battery needs charged?

Here, check this out:

I think some people were using magnets to fix the door or maybe the aux power door?

When I got my F I wanted to work on all kinds of stalls and upsets but knew enough not to spin. One i tried was ~60% power, clean, climbing, feet on the floor (on purpose). So it was uncoordinated. And yes, it rolled over on a wing rapidly. If you weren’t ready for it, it would be eye watering. Nose comes down very fast as well as the bank increases. I don’t think this is something that needs practiced a lot, but I feel like seeing an incipient spin once or twice in the Mooney was worthwhile. To be clear, it didn’t spin, as I initiated recovery at the break, but when it stalls uncoordinated, lots of things happen fast.

Seems reasonable. Cost is roughly equal not counting the warning light installation. Weight reduction is nice and it’s only ~5 less ah, but still gives me 45 minutes at my normal draw.