Ragsf15e

I double checked the Cav website... J and up can get nonFiki TKS, but only Encore, 252, & long bodies can get the full fiki... pretty much exactly what KSMooniac said.

No, sorry to mislead... no fiki Js! Just being dramatic. Now if I could just make my F Fiki...

Also tough to find a J with Fiki for those of us in the frozen North, although many Os have it.

Not that I know of. You found the finicky part though... getting it on and (more importantly in Texas) off requires some adjusting and tinkering of the flapper with the cowl off. Getting a medium heat setting is more a function of full heat directed down with the vent fins and then open the cabin vents a little to mix to the right temp. It ain’t as good as a modern car... but better than running my old truck with the heat full on and the windows open.

Yeah, where’d you find that? Contintals website sent me to avisell which required an account that I don’t have. Yeah, that’s them, thanks!

So true... but maybe it’ll help bring down prices?!

Yep, tisn13-oca would be the cylinders for my A1A... no prices to be found anywhere...

Ok, before reading this, I thought Lycoming was the only place to get new angle valve cylinders for IO 360s... come to find out “Continental Prime” cylinders are also available? Ok, so now there’s a little competition for new cylinders... but I can’t find prices for any of these Continental cylinders. These new ones are NiCh and supposedly superior?? 1. Is anyone using them? 2. How much are they? mostly just curious as Im really hoping not to need them for a long time!

I don’t know of an upgrade, but they are relatively easy to adjust if you’re having a problem. My F is a 68, so could be different... I live 69 miles from Canada (where I heard it gets real cold) and fly all winter in temps around 0-10 f at altitude. Sometimes I wear a light jacket but the heater works pretty good. Flapper valve adjustment is key to get good heat in winter and none in summer. Back seat passengers will be cooler for sure. Door and baggage door seals are real important to cut real cold drafts. Also, rich of peak is noticeably warmer... whats going on with your heater?

Maybe more depending on how big the passengers are who use the step! Seriously though..l you know a new fixed one is $1 amu from lasar?! Mine was pretty crappy looking, but my mech fixed it all up and painted it like new for much less!

You retractable step guys should update to newer technology and get a fixed step! My 68F step is always the same height when I get in or out! And don’t tell me I’m losing 5 knots in drag! I’ll make up 10 knots by removing my vacuum pump when the G5 is installed!

I had two exhaust valve guides go with great looking oil analysis (chrome cylinders). I did see the telltale egt pattern on graph from my jpi 930 in 6” capture. Also noticed slight loss of power (speed) about 5 minutes after leaning for cruise. On the graph, leaning looked normal, then couple minutes later, #3 egt rose about 75 degrees (which is higher than its original peak). It was pretty stable there. Repeated this several times as I reaccomplished leaning lop. Mechanic did wobble test and found both 1 and 3 bad. Interesting, he borescoped first and they looked ok, but he was pretty sure from the engine data already... Ill be interested to see what you find as I ise Blackstone as well. Hasn’t ever shown me anything but makes me feel better.

OP, Cody can tell you if I’m wrong, but your choice between reseal and overhauled is gonna depend on how long the prop has been in service... if it’s past the 6 or 7 years since last overhaul, most shops are gonna want to overhaul it. I just had my 700 hour, 12 year prop overhauled. It looked just like yours. Oil was also on my cowl and windscreen. I can tell you, it’s expensive, especially if they have to do any extra work inside...

Probably good hp if climb is normal. I agree.

Good in March, I guess my thought is, how are they now?

You making me feel better after putting the $12,200 annual on my cc last week. I had a $13k annual 3 years ago. That one was deferred mx. This year it was prop overhaul, alternator, and bunch of clean/repaint tiny surface corrosion. Thanks for making me feel better. Enjoy her running good again!

Scary. I’m buying sensorcon right now. Thanks for sharing.

While I generally agree that drag is more important than power, I’ve done a lot of speed testing in my F and I know th ~.75” of manifold pressure I get from opening the ram air is worth a good 3 or 4 knots. Are you sure your engine is running strong and all the compressions are good? I had a barely noticeable exhaust valve wobble and I first noticed the speed loss. I have done speed tests at different weights and it definitely makes a noticeable difference, but really takes several hundred pounds of weight to make more than a knot or two. Honestly though, probably a rigging issue since all the surfacs were just off, stripped, painted, balanced, put back on. That’s the most likely.

I have same prop vernier migration... gonna try the pony tail holder, thanks! is that a mooney thing or is there an adjustment? I asked a mechanic once and was told to replace the cable. I decided to just hold it in cruise.

Looks like a beautiful E. Nice engine times. Probably very fast. Needs autopilot to get real value out of all the other fancy avionics. That’s a big ticket item.

Those were fair rebuttals of my “buy a J” theory. To each their own I think in that respect. I guess my thought is that the C-J all have about the same operating costs (insurance could be more on a pricey J) and use roughly the same engine. I’d like to get the most performance and newest systems possible. The buy in is more and that’s important, but you may get that back and more selling a J vs something else. No matter what, operating costs will quickly overcome initial purchase price. I feel lucky that I bought a nice F and it took about 4 years at 100 hours per year to spend more than my initial purchase.

Another go/no go for me (especially if you want to fly ifr) is to find one with a decent 2 axis autopilot. They can be as expensive as a top overhaul or more!

I’d echo a few earlier comments... Of all the short/mid bodies, get a J if possible. C-J will all cost about the same to operate, but a decent J is 20+ years newer, faster, and hopefully, less to maintain. You’ll never be flying your J and wishing you were going 15 kts slower (on same fuel burn) in a C, E, F. Reverse is not true. Get one that’s priced right, sure, but that doesn’t mean pay less. In fact, look for the pricier ones. Just make sure it’s stuff you need and it’s priced fairly. Trust us, you would pay much more than the asking price premium for upgrading a lesser airplane to the same avionics, interior, autopilot, paint, engine, etc. This is true, but hard to fathom... purchase price isn’t all that important because it’s overcome by operating and maintenance expenses very quickly. I love my F, but I wish I’d spent an extra $30 AMU and got a similar J.

That’ll be a nice setup! Very redundant.

In fact, Garmin did real good making it simple for many of us... yes, you can take out the AI and get rid of the vac system with a G5 in its place. The limfac is if you have another vac operated system or an attitude based autopilot. As far as redundancy, if the G5 were to fail (much less likely than vac instruments), you’d be left with the same partial panel scan you have now. Im not saying its right for everyone since it’s several AMUs more than just replacing the vac pump, but yeah, you can definitely replace the AI with the G5.