Ragsf15e

It’s not something simple like oil cooler and intake manifold design/location is it?

Mine drips on my foot occasionally, so I know there’s fluid in it!

Awesome, thanks! Good to know it’s an option for turbo as well. At least it should have less maintenance than traditional mags for them.

Just to be clear, the Surefly is built for NA (Normally Aspirated) engines. Both carbureted and injected engines can be NA. Turbo engines are not. Surefly is just fine on IO-360s... when it’s finally approved.

Interesting that your 68F has a retractable step... my 68F has a fixed step. Sn 68-0164. 2xG5s would mean my vacuum sys is gone completely.

After reading about your brake saga, I want to give my mechanic a hug. He’s worked on them twice, repaired the parking brake valve and bled them several times. Through it all, I’ve had decent (or better) brake pressure. I’m gonna blame this hug on you because he looks like grizzly Adams and ain’t gonna like it.

Well I don’t wanna be the one to find out.

Not judging anyone, but I’m gonna keep draining and sumping both tanks and gascolater each flight - airplane is hangared too. I wouldn’t feel comfortable flying with someone who didn’t. Maybe it’s habit, maybe it’s being checklist nazi, maybe it’s not even required. However, I dump back clean tank fuel when I visually check tanks and drain minimal amount on ground from colater. Gascolater is drained before walk around in case it sticks and drips, it’s easy to see and reset.

Can you download from the engine monitor and post data egt, cht, ff, etc when it’s happening? I had a valve starting to stick last year and noticed it airborne and with the engine monitor before I noticed it on startups. Maybe that was just me not noticing... Egt on that cylinder went up about 100 degrees above where it was set in cruise. When that happens, could also be a mag/spark issue on that cylinder causing single plug to fire as in a mag check.

Geez, we all have different cables and knobs on the RAM. Mine is a 68F, and has tge squeeze to open knob type. I’m no mechanic, so not exactly sure how these go in there, but there a very small, like almost microscopic ball bearings that go into the locking mechanism somehow. Easy to lose...

Well if you’re going to need new waas antenna, maybe new xponder antey, new antenna wiring and connection to your audio panel, gps, etc, it can be pretty major surgery for one small box.

Got you some better 430 traffic pictures and iPad mounted pictures. I concede that there may be more traffic in socal than Spokane. Ram mount screwed into the panel works well. 14,500’, 175 Kts ground, 9.1gph (ROP) isn’t bad for an F! (Yeah, there was a strong wind!)

And all the prices Marauder quotes are just equipment... you’ll need significant install, new waas antenna, etc. Potentially 1.5 or 2 times the equipment cost. thats what makes wingtip/tailbeacon so attractive. Install easy, no new antenna.

Also, if you’re getting out only and your 430 isn’t waas, it’s not going to integrate with the 430 at all. You need to decide if you really need adsb in on the 430. Probably in the 5-10 AMU range installed. I have that, it’s useable, but is it really necessary with aall the same info on your iPad? Probably not. Or you can keep getting adsb in on the stratux and iPad while using a much cheaper solution for adsb out compliance. Like maybe 2 AMUs for wingtip light solution.

He doesn’t need a waas ifr gps though, just an adsb solution with waas in it - like tailbeacon or wingtip or gtx 345 with its own gps, etc...

@gsxrpilot, you hurt my feelings! The 430 display actually works pretty well for nearby traffic! Agree that wx is shit on it. yes, when you get adsb out, it triggers the towers to zap you your own adsb traffic puck. Although in socal you’re probably getting enough piggy back traffic that it might not appear much different. Ram mini ipad mount, right side. Right above usb ports in cig lighter. Yes I see I’m flying at 9,700’. No, I have no idea why. It was a long time ago. And yes, I see little mermaid is on the iPad instead of traffic on foreflight. My 3 year old is riding shotgun!

Do the Tailbeacon or wingtip Uavix solution for adsb. Super cheap, easy install, has it’s own waas. You won’t get anything on your 430, but your ipad/stratus/sentry can be panel mounted and wired into the electrical or cigarette lighter. Yeah, this won’t display on your 430, but saves you about $5-8 (waas upgrade and new xponder) AMUs which you can save up for your instrument rating. The nonwaas 430 is perfect for instruments in socal!

Electric gear looking even better now! All you Johnson bar folks always giving us a hard time!

Not only does it advance timing below ~25” MP, Surefly sets timing at TDC at start for better starts. with electroair you need their plugs/wires too. Our C-172 does start/run really nice with electroair...

I’m sure you can get a nice electroair installation, but I fly it at work In a C-172 and would not put it on my mooney. The new mag switches/key setup is obtrusive, there’s all kinds of added wiring and little boxes in front and behind firewall, and our IA who I trust very much with my own plane says it eats the spark plugs. Now, on the bright side, it starts very easy, and the mag drop is almost imperceptible. One thing that really bugs me, and it may just be the installation we have, when you turn off and take out the key, it’s very easy to leave the two mag switches on. I know you should treat every prop like a loaded gun, but I had a student move the prop over to attach tow bar right as I yelled STOP! and showed her that we both missed that checklist step... I’m gonna do Surefly. After @Marauder

Just got my airplane back from annual last month. $12,200. Second annual in 3 years over $10k (different shops) and I think my 68F is very well maintained. This year $5,500 was prop overhaul to include work on some corrosion they found inside the hub. Most of the rest of the $7k (at least over the $2k flat annual) was stuff I asked him to work- new alternator, sand and paint minor surface corrosion areas, rebuilt hydraulic parking brake, etc. when I looked at the bill, I was surprised, but when I went through it, I know they spent more time on it than they charged, and there are some cosmetic things they did without charging-cleaned/painted all the wheels, removed/new wing walk, etc. I trust them 100% mechanically and they always make me feel good even if it’s pricey. The right mechanic is like finding gold. Here’s to a flat rate annual next year!!

Interesting thought on the aft CG aerodynamics. I have always understood the benefits of an aft CG to be from reducing the amount of negative lift that the tail has to generate to hold the nose up and thus reducing drag created by the horizontal stabilizer. It’s not the weight reduction, but the reduction of induced drag created by the tail that results in slightly better airspeed. At our cruise speed, any reduction in drag will have a larger effect than increase in power (percentage drag vs percentage power). And maybe that’s what you meant too as wing loading/weight is going to directly affect lift required and therefore drag... I buy the ~3 knots between max gross and very light weight and have seen about that pretty consistently. I think I’ve got more like 2-3 knots out of an aft CG though. I will need more data to back that up.

Also note generally cooler CHT temps LOP. It wasn’t bad for ROP, but cooler is generally better for longevity. For that OAT, your temps look reasonable. Nice avionics btw!

Those numbers seem about right. Next thing would be to do same thing around 9,500’ just to get an idea how altitude will affect both. At some point less than 65% power you may want to run closer to peak egt when LOP but there’s probably gonna be debate on that. Just make sure all 4 are past peak. Higher up you’ll find even better miles/gallon, but at a slightly slower airspeed. Rop, you’re in a good place. Probably don’t wanna get any leaner there. Remember, all the settings are dependent on altitude, temp, etc. you now have an idea of ff, but best to use the lean function on the jpi to set it each time in cruise. You should figure out how to download your data and use jpi’s software to analyze the leaning. It will give your gami spread. Lop, #4 is farther lop, but that isn’t necessarily indicative of a bad gami spread. I also use the normalize mode after leaning as it will quickly show an egt walk off if you have an exhaust valve issue.

You’ll get lots of advice on LOP and ROP. Plenty of other threads to read too. However, I’d caution you on just setting a fuel flow without knowing where you are ROP, Peak or LOP. Probably should be somewhere around 90ish ROP, 20 or more LOP (depending on altitude) or Peak maybe if you’re real high. It’s pretty difficult to detonate an IO360 at 6,500’, but possible, especially lower. It’s also just a bad habit to set mixture half hazardly when you’ve apparently got egt info from all 4 cylinders. 25ROP is not a great place to operate the engine for efficiency, speed or longevity. Im definitely not trying to sound like a jerk or condescending, just trying to make us all better... and you beat me too... I did very similar speed testing last weekend in my M20F. 90 ROP, 10.2gph, 145 kts, 10300’ density alt. 136 knots at same altitude 20LOP. Js are nice!