Ragsf15e

Structure the deal properly so the seller is on the hook for anything airworthiness found in prebuy. If something big comes up he either fixes it or gives back your deposit. Then it’s on you to get a good prebuy at a good shop.

It could be fine if it really has a new engine and has been flying a good bit lately. Still, it’s worth having a Mooney knowledgeable mechanic look deeply for cracks and corrosion on the spar, stub spar, etc. Bladders probably hold up just fine without useage. Empty tanks for many years would dry out sealant if it didn’t have bladders. I might ask why the nose gear was rebuilt, just new pucks?

Ok, you got me there, you’re right, the volume doesn’t change at all. I should’ve explained that much better! Thanks!

Interesting... I have an 68F as well, here’s my thoughts/techniques... So 100mph should be right around your Vy. Generally a good place to be initially unless of course obstacles are a concern, then use Vx. Most people will “cruise climb” above about 1000’agl and use around 120mph. You will find only a slight reduction in climb rate, higher forward speed, better visibility, and much improved cylinder and oil cooling. As you get higher (you said above 4,000’), the air gets thinner. There are less molecules of air passing through the engine and oil cooler to remove heat. Increasing speed definitely helps. If you’re still climbing at 100mph at 4,000, you will see a definite improvement at 120mph. The total amount of oil matters too as there’s more oil to “hold more heat”. My engine likes 6 quarts. If I put in 7, the oil temp holds better during a long summer climb. 5.5 quarts is not good for a long summer climb. This doesn’t have much effect in cruise that I can see. If your temp is legitimately that high, you should definitely be seeing a reduced oil pressure. As opposed to the volume of oil helping a little, this is very noticeable. Check oil pressure at takeoff and through the climb. Finally, mine is about 195 in climb at 120mph and 185 in cruise, but oat matters and I live in a cold place. If yours is as high as you say and it’s new, probably better to get it checked. Stuff like testing the sensor, the vernatherm, and the oil cooler lines is pretty easy.

Good that you’re having it looked at. Generally baffling cools the cylinders which can lead to cooler oil if they were running hot... were they upper 300s, maybe low 400s? There is a piece of baffling on some airplanes that may or may not direct airflow away from the back of the oil cooler and allow more air to come through the front of it. Some have it, some not. If chts were all 330-350, baffling is unlikely to help. It will then be time to check out the vernatherm and/or oil cooler.

What does Dan say? I tend to think he’s done this enough to be able to say whether trying again might be successful in a long term fix or will eventually result in another massive leak?

Cruise is kind of a different animal. Curious though... what is your oil pressure at takeoff and what does it do as oil temp rises up that high? In climb, it’s common for people to see high oil temp by climbing at Vx or Vy for a long time, maybe running too lean in climb (thus hotter cht), etc. in cruise, those usually aren’t issues. Both cases need to make sure the reading is accurate which is why I asked about pressure. Oil pressure is very sensitive to temp changes. Very. It will drop noticeably as temp rises. On my JPI, I can start to see pressure drop a couple psi with ~10 degrees increase in Oil temp.

@carusoamhas good questions and your the oil cooler/vernatherm could definitely be the issue, but lets do a little data collection first... 1. What speed are you climbing at? 2. Is this a new condition? Have you had the plane long? 3. What do your CHTs look like in climb? 4. What does your oil pressure do as your oil temp climbs?

Are you getting 2700 during your takeoff roll? Maybe just before rotation, or only in a dive? If it’s only in a dive, needs adjustment!

Agreed. It’s worth jacking up and checking both normal and emer systems. When mine happened (during transition with a mooney instructor), there was no damage. However, it’s definitely not good for the system if the electric is engaged with the emer engaged. Maybe @carusoamis right and the cb saved you from further damage?

This is true depending on the year/model. I’ve heard lots of folks with the later emergency system in the floor have had their gear not come up because a passenger bumped the engage switch. However, the older style crank system In the pilot sidewall will still engage the electric motor and you won’t forget it.

Mine will still actuate electrically with that slide forward (68F). It’s very exciting and tough to forget because it also windmills the emergency crank at tornado speed. It’s not good for it by the way. So I don’t think the emer engagement slide being forward is your problem. I’d probably check it a bit further. However, I have had my gear cb pop before and I reset it. I have no idea why it popped, but it’s probably been 6 months working fine since.

Absolute values of egt aren’t really helpful. They don’t even need to be real consistent between cylinders. They are obviously helpful for finding peak egt and setting fuel flow in cruise. Not all your cylinders are running with exactly the same fuel/air mixture at the same time. Some are richer or leaner than others. I know my #4 is slightly leaner than the others, so if I’m LOP, it’s generally cooler egt than the others. Conversly, if I run ROP, #4 egt will be hotter than the others.

Good question. I use 9gph or less... it’s close enough and it works just fine. Chts are cool. At worst, I’m running 67%. 15 lop.

I’ve had to adjust the linkage to my flapper valve before. It was relatively easy but a bit “tweaky”. Mine does stay closed.

Your speed and fuel flow numbers are very similar to what I see ROP/LOP. If you’re off, it’s not by much. One thing to keep in mind, you lose power much quicker on the LOP side as you decrease fuel flow. My engine runs smooth deep LOP, and I can get the ff way down, but it eventually gets slow enough to be less efficient then being about ~15-25LOP. So, with that in mind, my technique to set LOP after level off is leave full power (WOT), Ram on (probably already on from ~5,000’agl), then set cruise rpm (I use 2500), Then pull mixture slowly until all cylinders go LOP and the last one is ~10-15LOP. Then I make sure I’m at 65% or less power (based on fuel flow). I generally cruise 7,500-10,500’, so it’s usually good. You will likely be 5-10 ktas slower than 100ROP at similar MP, RPM. You should see all cylinders much cooler than ROP.

Yep. After using it every flight for a few months, I have a good idea what readings I should see on the ground, climbing, and cruise. Typically I see ~10-15ppm during taxi depending on wind, door open/closed, etc. After takeoff, I usually see less than 10ppm. In cruise it’s 0. Now when I saw 20 in cruise and 35 on the ground, I knew it wasn’t an emergency, but I also knew something was wrong. It’s kind of like tracking oil use. Mine is 4.5 hours/qt. Maybe yours is 10. Both acceptable, but if either one changes significantly, something isn’t right.

Doc, I wanna welcome you to the aviation maintenance jungle... if I could, I’d definitely bring my airplane to you.

To your original question... I would get it overhauled to new specs. I’d also make sure I got either roller lifters or dlc lifters. I think the only way to get roller lifters is to get a factory rebuilt or new engine. Dlc lifters can come during a regular overhaul, I think. Id also take this time to redo the wiring to/from the VR and the field wire from the VR through the master, to your alternator. Maybe fuel lines? Maybe new throttle, prop or mixture cables if they’re old? Of course that’s just an opinion and I’m not even an A&P. Good luck with your choices!

I’ve got a sensorcon too. After my last annual an exhaust riser “lost” all its washers/nuts. It was completely unattached. I finally got above 30ppm and got an alarm while taxiing in from a 1 hour flight. Egt anomalies dowloaded from the jpi showed that the riser issue had started one or two flights after annual. Maybe not tight like the OP? Either way, it’s nice to have a good CO detector!

Top of the stack is pretty standard in big airplanes. G1000/3000/nxi in Piper M500/600 has it there too. I like it there better than my STEC which is on my TC.

I bet my 430w could fly the final portion after vectors. I’ll have to check if it’s in the database at all?

Ahh, you’re right. These are rare, but apparently they exist. Fixed radius or radius to fix, something like that. They look like the AR approaches but are approved if you’re appropriately equipped to fly them.

Um yeah, what is it?

Dude, that looks awesome!