Ragsf15e

Wow, I’m gonna be bummed if it eats spark plugs like that! I have fine wires, so fingers crossed!

You can connect to the battery or the hot side of the master bus according to the install manual... although I don’t have it in front of me.

True, but installing some of the newer options like Skybeacon are cheap/easy enough that it wouldn’t discourage me from buying a non-turbo airplane without ads-b already on it. Now if you are going to want access to the flight levels or Canada, a 1090 solution will definitely cost more if it’s not already there.

I also just had one installed at annual, so there’s another ebay left bendix mag... had same issue getting a new left slick harness. Ended up buying a new Kelly slick harness for both sides as that was cheaper than a single sided champion harness anyway and as you said, nobody has the single side in stock. New slick harness from Kelly (total for both sides) was $320 on spruce. So theres a right slick harness for ebay. Along with a sos and a vacuum pump, I’m gonna fill up ebay. Strangely, my sos came off real easy as it appears to be one of the only firewall items with fixed nutplates. We did leave the sos wiring in place, just capped it. I couldn’t justify messing with the switch behind the panel. Too many wires to mess up. Ive got an F so had to take apart the interior and route the wire to the battery in the back and then up through the firewall. That was the hardest part of the whole installation.

That’s cool! Whats your time of useful consciousness up there, 10 seconds?! Be safe!

https://adsbperformance.faa.gov/paprrequest.aspx

Careful, it’s not just required around class B. It’s anywhere a transponder is currently, like above 10,000’, class C, etc. It also greatly improves the traffic picture you will receive on a stratus type device. At this point, it’s relatively cheap to install a skybeacon so it wouldn’t make or break a purchase, but you’re going to need/want it asap.

Try the aopa website, pretty sure I did my last one there. nevermind, its on faasafety website.

That ain’t severe. That ain’t even cold! I use a SIM card enabled socket to start a cheapo electric space heater set on low. Heater has a dryer vent attached and shoved into the cowl flap. Generally run it from bedtime the night before flying. Blanket on top the cowl. Go out to start the airplane at 10deg f and the oil, cylinders, etc is at 60 deg +. Lycoming recommends preheating below 20deg f, I do it anytime below 40. It doesn’t hurt anything and it starts easier/smoother.

Depends... the stc for a G5 says it can’t be a required backup, but ask @gsxrpilot and he’ll tell you it can if you go through your local fsdo. Id definitely go the G5 route if possible.

Yeah I was surprised by the lack of mentioning the rpm output in the install manual as well. Should be fine on the right mag though.

So I’m reading through installation instructions and can’t find this exactly, but does tach wire for jpi 930 get switched over to right mag when Surefly is put in left?

You need to be pretty anal about when you check the oil to give yourself a means of comparison. If you come out to the airplane and it hasn’t flown in a week, that’s a reasonable place to check the oil for comparison. Say you fill it to 6, then fly it fir an hour. Check it immediately after landing and it will be at 5. This is not a valid time to say I burn 1 qt/ hour. Check it 48 hours later and it will be 5.5. Still not valid. Check it in a week and you might be right back at 6 or pretty close. It really drains down that slowly. Also, what type of cylinders do you have? Chrome uses more oil. Noticeably more.

I take the full runway too. Whenever possible, I don’t let atc dictate how I fly my airplane. I don’t hold it against you if you like 4,000’ and a quick taxi, but I’ll take all the extra luck/tools I can get if I ever have a problem on takeoff. That’s what I teach my students too, but I tell them to think about it and make their own decision when solo.

Yeah, that makes sense.

Insurance is desired, but not required. Your instructor is gonna want to be protected somehow. A bank will require it if you finance the airplane.

Liability only for now maybe? Parker will have ideas. what about insuring your instructor, then you just fly without it on your solos? no matter what, it’s gonna be expensive to insure for training.

I’m not exactly sure what you mean above, but a G5 cannot provide a certified waas source for an adsb transponder. Now if that transponder has its own Waas gps,that would be fine (ie gtx345 with gps). Can a gtx 335 have its own waas gps in it?

There’s a leveling procedure in the install manual to set it, but otherwise it’s not adjustable... unless you go into the setup mode and adjust what they did or didn’t do during installation.

G5 is not an approved waas source. Got an ifr waas navigator in the panel?

As Mike said, either/or. I use Garmin’s service now too as it’s slightly cheaper and I get the whole US instead of just the western US for that slightly cheaper price. Expect the data card transfer device to cost $60ish. If you want a Jepp transfer device, pm me, I’ll send it to you half price, however, I’d recommend just buying the garmin one. The garmin transfer device only works with garmin, the jepp only works with jepp. It’s pretty silly.

Not sure if it’s wired differently, but even with the master off, you can have a hot mag(s) with the key in. I would think that mag switch is the same. I.e. you could turn off the master in flight and the engine will keep running. We have a similar but less elegant setup on a trainer that I teach in sometimes and it’s pretty easy to miss the mag switches. I have seen the airplane moved with a towbar with them on.

Honestly, I’d have one more concern... not getting them both off after shutdown. I really like the idea of the mag switches and push to start, but a hot mag scares me. I think it’s just slightly more difficult to forget to turn the key off and remove it. Even with that, you could still end up with a hot mag if they aren’t grounded. Be careful with the prop when you’re moving the airplane!

My input is close to useless because I’ve got a jpi 930 not the original gauge like yours, but generally, voltage is reading at the bus.

The guys above nailed it. You likely have voltage drop at an old and/or corroded connection. Start with the battery, then bus, then voltage reg, etc. Move through the system and find the drops. Also, this should be tested with master on, but engine off. I’m really curious how you got 14v at the battery? Should be like 12.5ish. Maybe a bit higher for the first few minutes after turning on the master, but it shouldn’t read 14v.