Ragsf15e

Also, a small difference in trim or weight loading will change that force quite a bit. Our trim indicator isn’t exactly a fine tuned scientific instrument, so you can have it “set at takeoff” and there is a lot of “wiggle room” in that setting.

Saying everything you want and “cost conscious” in one sentence is like saying @Marauder wants to fly his airplane with 3 of his lady friends and be under max gross weight. Ain’t gonna happen. I like my EDM930, but the 900 is great too. Couple G5s, Avidyne 440, you’ll be in great shape, but it won’t be cheap.

Well I ended up with a rebuilt cylinder so yeah, it was expensive. There is a way to clean out the valve guides with the cylinder still attached. Search for “valve rope trick”.

Bob, sounds like you’re going down a good path with it, but I had a similar experience that I’ll share... I was in cruise, just after level off, 2500 rpm, maybe 22.0 map and I felt a slight vibration. The exact same thought occurred to me... maybe I need the prop balanced? Anyway, I ended up downloading and going over my engine data very carefully (jpg 930 engine monitor is great). I found some anomalies with the egt in cruise - about 4 minutes after setting it up for about 100 rop, the #3 egt slowly rose about 100 degrees and sort of cycled. Anyway, between that slight vibration and the weird egt I showed it all to my mechanic. He recommended we check the valves on #3 and sure enough, found a wobbly exhaust valve. So I guess what I’m saying is that it could definitely be an engine issue, and the digital engine monitors are definitely helpful if you can look at data during the problem. Drew

Throw a G5 (or 2) on it while you’re in there and get rid of the vacuum system too!

Thanks! That’s a good pirep and a generous offer. I’ll give them a call. I’m a CFII too, so if you ever need a Flight Review or IPC we can definitely work something out!

I think I’ll wait until you can give a pirep on the shop. I’m sure they’re fine, and it’s not a difficult setup, but it’s frustrating to have to fly somewhere 200+ miles away (across big mountains in the winter) to have to get an estimate, then drop off airplane, drive back 5 hours, then drive back to pick it up and fly back across. It just seems like there should be a person or place closer to do something like this, but I haven’t found them yet. The avionics business is crazy right now.

What type of “retraction prevention” device is on your airplane? Common Mooney ones are an airspeed switch (brass, big, pitot lines connected) behind your asi in the panel or squat switch in the gear wells? Both can fail. It seems easier for the squat switch to stick or be slightly out of alignment and prevent gear retraction. I might figure out which you have for yourself and then have your current mechanic have a look if it’s a squat switch. Maybe a simple adjustment or shot of triflow. Its worth the effort until she’s up at lasar for next month.

I’ll double check, but I’m pretty sure the STC is fine to remove vac system with only 1 G5. Remember, the G5 as an HSI option didn’t come out until a year after the ADI STC and we could remove the vacuum system with just the ADI then. I do have an electric King HSI, so don’t need the dg but I would eventually like the dual G5 system for a better HSI and for ADI redundancy.

Thank you both. Yes I read through @bradp‘s thread. The HSI would be out of my league, but I was thinking the ADI is much easier. I also usually get into a project and then realize it’s going to take a lot longer than I imagined and/or allowed. Thanks for your input and suggestions. I’ll read through the install manual and see if I really want to tackle it. Its been kind of shocking to me that I can’t find an avionics shop or avionics a&p that wants to do this close to me in eastern Washington/northern Idaho.

So I’ve been trying to get my local avionics shop in Spokane, WA to commit to doing a dual G5 install within the next couple months. They must be completely overwhelmed with work right now because they won’t even answer back at this point. I’m thinking of tackling the G5 ADI by myself while the airplane is in annual in December and have my IA sign it off. At least then I can have him remove the vacuum system (adi is the last thing I have using vac). So, despite my mechanical engineering degree, I have limited hands on mechanical skills and there’s a reason I’m a pilot and not a mechanic. Is there any part of the installation that gets tricky? I’d like to use my GNS430 as the gps source. How hard is wiring the new breaker? What about leveling and doing the rest of the checkout? If it’s doable, how long should a rookie allocate?

An “A” at the end of your engine serial number indicates wide deck. Narrow deck is an older/original design.

Ahh, thanks!

I thought Lycoming new cylinders for the IO-360A1A only came in steel? I know you can get new TCM cylinders for our A1As in both nickel and steel, but didn’t know Lycoming had anything other than steel? The TCM ones intrigue me because they have the nickel and are cheaper. Not sure about being in stock though...

I probably would’ve had a new alternator, voltage regulator and master switch. You got nothing new out of that whole episode!

Next time, I’m gonna show up at your hangar and ask for help. 6 pack in hand of course.

I have a similar story about replacing a bunch of stuff and then finding the problem was with an old circuit breaker. Troubleshoot first.

Is it making standard rate turns? Lots of times I find myself flying 30degree bank turns out of habit from much faster airplanes. Standard rate in our Mooney is closer to 23 degrees or so. Seems wide, but probably appropriate.

Links below. Lots of good guidance in there but none of us had headset noise. Do you have a JPI or other digital readout of bus voltage? What is it in flight? If not, you can get a cheap cigarette lighter insert with digital readout as a double check. Based on the headset noise, You may be checking out the alternator connection or diodes like Turbo said and not necessarily the low voltage issue. https://www.zeftronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/Z14PS.pdf

Is the whirring noise mechanical or electrical noise coming through the audio? Ie, do you hear it without the headset on? I’m not smart enough to know how, but that probably matters.

Definitely use the diagram and troubleshoot it before shotgun replacing parts. It’s more likely a cheap circuit breaker or corroded connection than an expensive regulator or alternator. There are several threads from the last year on low voltage situations that will give you good advice. Let me know if you need help finding them. Definitely troubleshoot it first. I can’t say that enough... Theres also a troubleshooting guide on the Zeftronics website. It’s the same procedure as the one above. Works even if you don’t have a Zeftronics VR. The notes on the one above (left side) are important... no more than .5 V drop across any connection. Ie, check the battery voltage (say it’s 12.6, bus might be 12.3, input to the VR maybe 12.1). If you’re seeing bigger drops, find the point of resistance. Also check the field voltage out of the VR and then into the alternator. Again, should be minimal drop.

That color will look nice. Mine matches my seats though. The grey might work better for you?

Yep, mines a 430W too. You have to put waypoint in one of the data blocks.

I agree with GS, DTK, DIS. GS is only there because we all care about going faster, but I still have it. It’s useful for time/fuel calc too I guess. However, the top data field on mine is Waypoint. The key to the magenta line is know where that damn thing is taking me!

Oh wow, that’s interesting. Mine has enough trim to hold pretty darn close to Vne. Nose up trim gets close to maxing out on final with two adults in the front and no luggage.