Ragsf15e

Commercial multi works. 2nd class medical. Haven’t seen $2000 yet, but I have done a few of these contract flights... out at 9am, Stanford football game, back by 5pm. I just sit copilot and talk on the radio because I’m not typed in a citation. It’s single pilot, but pax decided to pay the $1000 a day extra for two pilots... it’s not a terrible days work.

That I would definitely buy, and there’s absolutely nothing wrong with having to go missed. Talking about the experience on MS is much better than us trying to figure out why you turned into a smoking hole after getting disoriented during a rushed approach in imc! Also, going missed is real good for you. You’ll be more likely to do it in the future if you need to instead of pushing on in a bad situation.

I don’t doubt that it could happen to some degree, but it’s pretty darn tough to get a false gs indication on the front course of an ils unless you’re really far above the glide slope. The backcourse does occasionally have some erratic indications but you expect those. The conventional wisdom with false indications on the front course are that they can occur in 3 degree increments above the glideslope, so if your normal 3 degree, 5 miles out faf is at 1500’ above tdze, you could see a false indication at 3,000’ or 4,500’ above tdze (6 degrees or 9 degrees). If you’re on a 6 degree glide slope to the runway in imc, you need to go missed anyway.

I agree. All the SLs SBs etc need to be accessible... are they widely available elsewhere?

Surprised someone hasn’t helped you out yet. Maybe try the thread in the avionics section you might get a response? good luck! rags

They both require the battery or alternator, but they are also both only approved to replace one mag on certified airplanes. If you lose the whole electrical system, you will still be running on one mag. There is a company testing emags that self generate like a mag, but those are still experimental. Most of the benefits of electronic ignition is recognized with only one mag replacement and the other a “wasted spark”. Supposedly.

Yeah that’s the plan. He’s a good mechanic. Willing to work with stuff like this, but also willing to tell me to get the right parts when necessary. I always trust guys more who tell me I need new/fixed items after they’ve told me not to fix something else a few times.

I just had a Surefly installed and my mechanic found that my engine had the “optional” wiring arrangement too. I already bought a new slick harness for the left side with the standard wiring, now maybe need a new right side bendix with standard wiring. More complicated than it should be. I’m hoping he can just move the leads, but as everyone said, they’re labeled and cut to length. Ouch.

Yeah, I should’ve said it like that. My ia checked the led lights after the install as we followed the installation manual.

I guess I got lucky with that one. Mine was in the engine compartment, attached to the firewall, near the top on the pilots side. Voltage regulator same place, copilot side. Weird how they’re all different. Mine has the 201 windshield so maybe it moved when that went in?

Or the shop left it in fixed timing... can you see the dip switch settings?

Oh, wait, are you saying your sos is on the interior side of the firewall? Mine was in the engine compartment, on the engine side of the firewall. Yeah, I’d leave that alone if it’s behind your panel. Ugh.

Mine looked exactly like that. Maybe nut plates was the wrong term... the nuts were secured to the interior side of the instrument panel and we simply unscrewed the sos and then put the screws back in. We capped off the wires after unhooking them since I didn’t want to mess with the ignition wiring and removing them there.

I just installed a Surefly and we did remove the SOS. It was super simple. I also have a 201 windshield, but wait for it, there were nut plates on the back of the panel! Oh yeah! Just two simple screws removed on the engine side and the sos popped off. Unfortunately, I found out about the nutplates after I had removed the instrument glareshield and defrost vent tubing so I could get a hand/finger back there to hold the loose nut I assumed would be there. None of that work was needed, but I still got cut hands. Last year I changed out the voltage regulator. That most certainly did not have nut plates. It’s luck of the draw.

If you’re at KSGU anyway, try to do the Grand Canyon flyover. It’s awesome. Theres a special chart (it can be downloaded in foreflight) that shows the vfr corridors, altitudes and frequency. Its easy to do and an awesome flight.

Yep. Retired a couple years ago. You? These pictures aren’t perfectly of the “ball”, but the mount attaches to the ball, you can point it wherever you want and tighten. It sticks out maybe 2” from the panel. From the pictures, you can see it’s screwed into the panel.

I have a ram ball mount screwed into my right side panel. It’s real nice. You can angle the tablet toward yourself to see it better since it’s a ball mount. I didn’t do it, but I don’t see it documented and nobody has cared for the last 6 years I’ve had it...

We’re all kind of telling you the same/similar thing, but potentially not clearly... be careful with multiple conversions - mph to knots and TAS to IAS. In fact, IAS may be nice to know, but it’s almost irrelevant in cruise. You need your TAS to make sure you’re meeting performance (engine, drag, etc). You need your Ground Speed to make sure your fuel plan is working. Foreflight is generally set up for knots and it doesn’t care about ias. You input true airspeed in knots (although I think you can set it for mph). Most aviation is knots so I’d recommend that even though your poh is in mph like mine. If you plan a flight, ForeFlight will then use forecast winds at your planned altitude to compute ground speed. Build a basic ForeFlight profile for a few altitudes and rich/lean of peak. Say 5,500, 8,500, and 11,500. That’s 6 performance profiles right there. Use the profile closest to your planned cruise numbers - ie if I plan to cruise at max power at 10,500, I’ll use my 11,500 rich of peak profile. If you start with a cruise profile ~7,500, 150 kts (true), 10gph you’re gonna be really close for most normal cruise settings.

Aspen units are used as backup for the G1000 Meridian I fly at work. You could probably get field approval to do it if you really want.

The Mooney charts are notoriously optimistic for cruise. If you have a good clean E, you might see just over 150kts TAS in cruise. More likely, plan for 148 kts TAS at 10gph. That will be a starting point and you can adjust from there. The adjustment won’t be much. Right now your foreflight profile from above actually has you slowing in the descent... lots of techniques on this, but no reason if you actually want to go fast. Leave cruise power, trim down for 500fpm descent. Only pull power if required to remain below Vne or enter the pattern (no turbulence). Foreflight descent should be something like 170kts, 10gph. I fully understand someone with an E is going to swear they get 180kts on 8gph, but start close to my numbers above and make very slight adjustments. You’ll be in good shape.

Ouch, that doesn’t look good. On the noise front, Ive been flying with our twins since they were a few months old. You can do it safely. I have an M20F, and it’s pretty loud. At first we used foam earplugs cut to size with “baby bubs” headset over top. As soon as they were old enough, 2 1/2?, we went to a junior size headset. You can even get junior size noise canceling if you want. As babies, it’s a struggle to keep hearing protection in/on, but it can be done. With the headset, they want it on to talk (usually over ATC while you’re getting a clearance), or you can plug them into an iPad movie. Thats an easy 2 hour flight.

Ouch. Glad I don’t live there anymore. Really like to visit though!

Got the same thing! Made me think I forgot to pay for 2020... but alas, olympia is just looking for a loan.

Also, if you’ve already got a 430w in the panel, you’re much more likely to repair it, get a used one or go avidyne 440 because those options require almost no installation. A 650 is a different beast. If I had nothing, I’d get a 650. Since I already have a 430w, I’d send it to garmin for repairs.

Yeah, I got just under 2,000 hours, all operational. It was awesome, good time to be a fighter pilot, but P-51 and Rhino would be favorites in my logbook if they were there! Sorry about the thread drift... the F is awesome! I have a 1968. Solid IFR platform. Simple, reliable systems. Good useful load. As “economical” as GA is gonna be these days. I regularly fly my family of 4 over 500nm to my parents and it sure beats the airlines. Make sure someone knowledgeable looks real hard for corrosion as that’s a show stopper. Have them do Sb208 checks and look at the spar real good. I don’t currently use an msc for maintenance, but I have been to a few of the good ones, and I’d definitely recommend a quality msc for the prebuy.