Yetti

As stated by others there is no O-ring on the bleeder. And it is not usually the leak. You can put a wrench on it and check to see if it is slightly above snug. While you are down there check to see if your brake pads need replacing. As the piston gets to the end of travel as the brake wear they get where the piston will leak around the o-ring in the caliper. This is most likely the cause of the leak. Refill your brake reservoir. The parts and service manual are in the download section

I like to say. flying is easy. Landing is hard. Landing is where you sometimes have to pull every pilot trick out of the bag of tricks. Other times it just clicks, but no one is around to see that one.

One of the things that really helps to prevent PIO is more trim. Assuming you have been trimming all the way around the pattern. I usually grab 2 handfuls of the trim wheel right before the threshold. The nose will get very light and require some down input. This is good because if you bounce it it will keep the nose up, more back pressure and either fly it for another landing or power and get out of there.

the forgotten art of flaring

What is the AP/IA comfortable signing off on is the best answer. We used to run high amperage solenoids to switch the power to high amperage radios. The metal cans would fail at a higher rate than the black plastic ones.

started as cutler hammer bought by Eaton. At one point I found it at McMaster Carr for $200.00

this would be the more accurate one https://peerlesselectronics.com/6041h105-relay?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=20663341848&gclid=CjwKCAjwlaTGBhANEiwAoRgXBbhuWKo-Lr1UUFUmSylE4m2OjCHjmOhe2gzIn47Nnb8yoD3thidkdxoCuMEQAvD_BwE sky geek is a little less dollars. https://skygeek.com/eaton-aerospace-6041h105-relay-12v-1-15-electromagnetic.html?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=13706325759&gclid=CjwKCAjwlaTGBhANEiwAoRgXBRz5hEL80QIv2peWx0foyLVmYs_eV-jhmk7bUAO7C4QKbzg-2ih1shoCJYwQAvD_BwE

technically the one you have is rebuildable. Maybe. Taking the fuse out kind of means it is still working. You have another wire somewhere that was providing 12 volts to the master. It could have been as simple as water from the com panel falling on the master switch. I would spend some time with a test light/VOM before I replaced the solenoid. I would be replacing the master switch prior to the Master Relay. What the heck is that third relay for? That is not stock.

Limited range of collet chucks.... Yep I know I should have made my own.

Derlin Rod. I think it is 7/8. Centering on a lathe is hard without turning the piece after centering. especially at the end of a semi flexible rod. It's also hard to center if you recess the rod into a chuck to eliminate sway. So what I did was cut the rod to width or a little over on a table saw. Then created a square jig to hold the round rod. Then could center precisely on the milling machine and drill the hole using the horizontal table. There was some square up/final dimensioning for the width that could be accomplished with a flat file. I still have a bag of them cut somewhere. https://www.amazon.com/BuyPlastic-Delrin-Acetal-Copolymer-Diameter/dp/B092Y8F2ZK/ref=sr_1_2?crid=39XWK6QWO0NJ4&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.GLKXYP5rUVhCOeaCKW55RBbtcn7FYezCSDlGG2mC0SfvU9-kTBu8Tkru_TNpKX4QJl2GAFe8qSSBpE-oQpRQwLI3JttJh86SvgDc9Pu7tUUgXuu5aF7DujgqlGbXN76BPIvQ1wq6U80Vg-5ufFBhsE7kCGJm_kBx2SnUfmG4x7BMstxtBey7itspjyJQrySv6gcdY_yKc8lI649dblcwK2HL8f0Gi0ih_GX6L4--JB0.eDWZVQWq3C434BWcpVX4h-gceYWaihsuSjw6fXdPr6Y&dib_tag=se&keywords=delrin%2Brods%2B7%2F8&qid=1757792148&sprefix=delrin%2Brods%2B7%2F8%2Caps%2C166&sr=8-2&th=1

If there is panel access a fair amount of PDR could be done by pushing/rolling the dings out. I would be wary of a plane with a bunch of filler on it. The plane would have to be stripped, then filler, then paint. Still would not trust that the filler would hold. https://aviationconsumer.com/maintenance/hail-damage-not-always-cosmetic/

It's no worse than walking around trying to find the #2 phillips only to discover it has been in your left hand the whole time.

This one was loose beforehand. Should I have paid more attention to it? Yes! Was this it's final cry for help? probably so. The newer ones are square interface with a set screw. Easy remedy, but the plane had spoken.

I am still practicing landings in the Long Body and have not removed my 4000' runway limitation yet. I have one 2100' foot landing so far. I went for the afternoon turn money into Mooney Noise flight yesterday. Questioning if I should do some pattern work. I did one acceptable landing. A little fast, did not hold it off long enough to burn some extra energy. Because it is Texas first thing you do is open the window and door and get some air moving. Opened the door. Door latch handle fell off in my hand. Tossed it on the floor. Decided the plane was saying that is enough for today. OK I get it.

The Subaru has aluminum hood and roof. I had pretty good success with the Paintless Dent Repair kit off Amazon. Watched a couple of Youtube videos. Made so the big dents on the hood were just a blip. Pulled out a good size crease from Dad's fender ridge. My biggest question is I saw that the top quarter of my rudder had a slight bend on the very trailing edge. just the riveted edge The plane flys pretty straight, kind of wondering if it should be straightened or just leave well enough alone.

unbolt the crank assembly Place the lower side roller assembly on a 2x4. Crib the back frame. then put your foot on the higher side roller assembly and bend till straight.

fly your plane with 21/21 or some other low power setting. It is a different feel. Now remember that feel as that is that is the landing feel. In the F I would do a U turn to land with gear down at threshold on downwind. Half flaps on U turn to land. which meant that the runway was about 1/3 under wing on downwind. Manual says no turns close to the ground under 90mph without flaps. Good rule. If I was high on turn to final I would add full flaps. Long body is different. Half flaps on downwind. Full flaps on base. but it is a heavier plane. There is only like 4-5" between the runway and full flaps down. My belief is that the air pushing down with full flaps on the runway causes float along with too much energy. My best landing in the long body was 2100 feet of runway used with light winds/normal braking. But I am still limiting my self to 4000' runways. In theory you can fly it on at 90 but you need to have no descent rate or you will bounce back up like a kangaroo. Your choices at that point are go around or if you still have energy (hint you still have energy) and the nose up fly the plane and set up for another landing. I grab two handfuls of trim wheel crossing the end of the runway which keeps the nose light and will help prevent a PIO Don't ever let the nose drop. always hold the yoke back Trim when you gear down and flaps. Trim when you go to full flaps. trim right before you cross the runway. don't forget to trim.

I think Spruce had the caps only. Digikey would also have just the button/cap

The F model has a Ford 8N 4 pole tractor relay in it.

also used in Piper saratoga and Cherokee Also a RBM 70-311221

A quick google search on 6041H53 shows it to be a Cutler Hammer which was bought by Eaton. This looks like a pretty good fact sheet. http://www.aeroelectric.com/Reference_Docs/Misc_Pdf/6041SeriesPowerRelays.pdf 28V 2PDT Has an MS number MS25031-D1B I found the F model flap relay NOS at like Relays.com or something. I should probably sell it.

If the old one was fun to fly the new one is more funner. dialed back I was doing 165knots. still makes me nervous getting her slowed down coming in. Some where between 20 miles out and 15 miles out is when you want to start down. Texas was hot today bumpy at 5500

I am still not exactly sure where that fuel leak is. If it near the empanage wing root, it may just be a) the rubber fuel hose that connects the tank to the hard line. b) a leaking fuel sender. Remove the side panel and have a look. These guys have the fuel sender gaskets order 4, just call them the Mooney ones are a bit thicker. https://www.brownaircraft.com/aviation-seals-s/22.htm You can get by for a little while just by tightening the screws on the sender and maybe the clamps on the fuel line. Fuel line can be from the Auto Parts store, I don't think there is a special Aviation fuel line. NAPA will probably have Gates Brand. Make sure it is fuel line. And you don't need high pressures stuff.

It's a little crazy. I like to say "25 years newer than the old one, but still 25 years old"