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MB65E

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Everything posted by MB65E

  1. Kim D on the field has a lot of hardware. Poke your head in the parts room and ask for Kim or Shane. Show them what you have and have, grab a good handful and leave $10 cash. Good people. -Matt
  2. Wayne at Pacific oil cooler. In SoCal. Send the vernotherm too. Any good hot rod shop should be able to weld the exhaust shroud. If it's a small crack in the shroud, I would just stop drill it. It's not that critical. -Matt
  3. I would start with centering the finger nut between the rod ends. Match it like Yetties, and run it. Whoever messed with the cotter pins didn't do any favors for you. The adjustment is really fine. I think adjusting it before pulling the servo would be helpful, now that we know that it's been played with. It's going to take several runs. -Matt
  4. There are several examples of NAS hardware in the nose gear hardware. Places where one thinks is AN is installed, it could actually be NAS. Check the book each time. Genuine Aircraft Hardware, in PRB, is awesome to work with. Some of the older NAS items are no longer available. They will work with you to find approate hardware. http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com/ -Matt
  5. I still dip mine every flight. The JPI is accurate with in 1gal per full tank. I think that's acceptable. I drained all I could from the wing sumps, then added fuel and made a wooden stick. -Matt
  6. North Dakota temps and pressures have changed much in 3 months. Even in CA, adjusting the idle mixture is required when it's 50°, vs 105°. -Matt
  7. I would rule out the servo and spider. Send it to RLB accessory service in Addison IL. (630) 543-9213 Probably around $2500 for both to overhaul. They might be able to fix it, but my guess is it needs an overhaul anyway. I know it's a huge expense, but the fuel air mixture is the most important thing on the airplane. Otherwise we have really heavy gliders... You might pull the finger screen on the left side of the servo first. I'd bet your tech didn't check it. It could be impacted with garbage. good luck!! -Matt
  8. How old is the fuel servo and spider? i would pull both and send off for inspection. what is the rise at 900 rpm when you pull the mixture? -Matt
  9. Should not be too expensive to install the alternator kit from Planepower. New front baffling rework mounting the alternator propeller removal and install new belt wiring mounting the VR Other airframe wiring and CBs, lights, shunts and etc. A good shop should be able to do it in a day or two. 10-15hrs??? Great support from plane power. Awesome upgrade! -Matt
  10. Sounds like standard old airplane stuff to me. ASI can not be marked as INOP -Matt
  11. Let us know where you ended up tonight. -Matt
  12. Still clear at SMO. Just left. however, fog is starting to march in. -Matt
  13. Flysafe! El Paso is a stretch before lunch. I keep an eye on this thread and try to meet for a late lunch at spitfire! -Matt
  14. It's talking to you! It would be interesting to know where the pets came from in the suction screen. I'd pull that number 4 and start digging. I think the screen and filter probably caught everything. Could sell it now...its run out. I would try and get somebody to bless it and make it safe. The Rocket search is depressing. -Matt
  15. Go for it!! With your skill set I would wrap whatever you wanted. Even the flight controls. Then have them balanced. It's not as scary as it sounds. I would love to wrap mine one day. My Dad is wrapping his Sonex. The automotive materials are amazing to work with. If your paint is in marginal shape. I would even wet sand all the paint and current paint lines to have a nicer working surface. Don't get into the rivets. Post many pictures and I'm sure you'll get a few customers! -Matt
  16. I had always thought our old E models were loud. When I first started flying ours I was suprised by the loudness. I'm not suprised that it registrars that high on the DB. I've done the earplugs under the headsets. You really need to crank the Comms to make it work. I normally everything but the Mooney with a helmet with electric earbuds. Much like clarity aloft or halo. The helmet further reduces the noise. The DC's with the Oregon aero earpieces and kit I think are just about the best you can do for the high noise environments. Bose with the Oregon earpiece upgrades are ok too, but all standard Bose are really bad with high levels of noise. -Matt
  17. I like your thinking Cliff!! I strongly believe having the springs on the nose gear rods would prevent a half dozen nose wheel collapses each year. I think you can have a properly rigged manual gear airplane that puts too much stress on the nose truss fittings. Several examples I have seen here fail. There is enough stress to bend hardware, and the rods themselves if rigged incorrectly!! I've since replaced the rods and installed all new hardware on my electric nose gear rods. Lasar can reproduce the rods on an exchange basis. -Matt
  18. Keep flying and watching it! If you don't like it change it. -Matt
  19. We don't here too much of Exxon elite. Mr.Bruce sure pushed his Rocket to world record heights with the oil +FL400. Kinda makes you feel good it has the same additives already in it as camgard and avblend. I've used both and still switch back and forth between changes. I like the protection for the cam I think camguard gives. I also like the "soaks into metal" and protection in the valve train clauses that AVblend states. -Matt
  20. Yes, the stir the pot technique. Works great, lasts long time!! -Matt
  21. So what exactly was the issue? I've read it 2x, a pin in brake of the motor fell and shorted? just trying to wrap my head around it. Are the Dukes and ITT's interchangeable airframe to airframe? 65E, duke electric gear. -Matt
  22. I change mine every 20hrs. But let the filter extend to the next oil change. Ever see what your oil looks like at 50hrs? Not golden honey anymore. -Matt
  23. I'm glad we agree they are structural. I get into debates about how they can be normal stainless countersunk screws. Personally, I don't mind the Cad screws. They hold up slightly better with screwdriver abuse and the threads don't gall as bad. A 250 count will do the wings. -Matt
  24. Nice and clean. Thanks! It works for almost all of us. I'd recommend a fuel/tank/gas check during decent or landing too. I've unported a Chorkee 6 base to final, darn FOUR tanks. I've also had a pax interference issue with a fuel valve on downwind. Fuel is a big deal! -Matt
  25. Only 2 blades were bent. Strange. -Matt
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