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I finally got a Mooney. I've wanted one for years. My 1975 M20F seems to be everything I thought it would be. I'm ready to accumulate some hours . I've kept up with this site for a while now and expect to put some of the good information to use. As a new Mooney owner I'm sure I will have many questions for all you experienced owners. Hello to all!

When I'm bringing my Acclaim into John Wayne Airport they often slot me behind a 737 and it's pretty annoying. Thankfully they tell the airliners to keep their speed up for me.

Hi folks, I am troubleshooting my PC system. Checked for leaks etc. My boots are in pretty good shape, saw from a sticker on them that they were overhauled or replaced 5 years ago. I have a question about the roll trim valve (from inside the yoke): When the valve is centered, should it allow vacuum to the side ports at all or should the vacuum passage completely cut off? My valve does allow some through and not sure if it should. Yves

Not many of us do upgrades/repairs based based on economic sense alone. Anyone that's done any real upgrades will never recoup the costs. My $45,000 C model has has had that much spent on avionics upgrades alone. That doesn't count the $10k paint job a few years ago and soon $11k interior. So yes... The additional $65k invested in the plane will never be recovered. Will I do it again... Absolutely. And for the engine... I have a engine kitty that when I hit TBO hours, will have the funds to install a factory rebuilt engine. I consider it just an operating expense so I budget for it. It should not matter if you are flying a Champ or an Acclaim installing a quality engine should not even be debated.

Wing root ferings, flap gap and aileron seals, fresh engine and prop and a bucket of soapy water. Guess what? 155 KTAS is 155 KTAS.

Thanks all for the timely and friendly responses. This forum has already been a great resource in familiarizing myself with Mooney maintenance and best practices, and I can tell I will be back here often with more questions. After getting a bit more time in the old girl, planning on a cross country from Phx down to Guaymas; I think the wife will be pleased:) Take care all, onwards and upwards

Congrats and welcome! Beware of Fantom's left jab. The truth can sting...

If your the type who likes to help with the work and your mechanic is willing to split the case and send the halves to Divco, it can be repaired relatively cheaply.

I frequently check a number of things under the cowling these days and one item I check is the alternator main lead terminal. About a year ago I had the terminal come loose in flight on a 6 month old new alternator. It fried the terminal post and the alternator - which led to a new alternator - which led to an oil cooler line crack - which led to an inlfight emergency.... ( the oil line was old and had not been changed when it should have been but thats another story). Anyways, I checked it again yesterday and the terminal clip came off the post broken in two pieces. This would likely have done the same thing to the now one year old second new alternator. Its a good idea to routinely check the alternator connections and its quick and easy to do.

....and a warm welcome to you! Just be careful with the answers you receive from inexperienced owners.

Totally needless , the surface tension of the oil overcomes the dry start , also guys the oil does not drain out of the filter when it sits , that is why it makes a big mess when you remove it.....I usually stab the filter with a pick to vent it to let it drain for a half hour before I remove the filter.....

No given that the filter on my engine is horizontal the majority of the oil in the filter drains back to the engine when it is not running. Secondly if you filled it up completely most of the oil would run out while trying to put it on. I'm sure if you wanted to you could put 1/2 a quart or less in it.

Really....Just so I understand what you're saying. Only your model and newer is worthy of installing a factory overhauled engine?

Welcome to the F Troop! Post some pics. Love to see other 75 models like mine!

I have almost 5000 hours in Mooneys, 90% was paid for by somebody else.

The last guy I transitioned into a Mooney was told to never land with full flaps, "Mooney's are hot, hard to land, and impossible to slow down", and "never fly under 100 MPH". With predictable results. Now he was actually a really good pilot, and in 3 hours or so, was coming over the threshold at 72 MPH and landing in 1000', which was shorter than the warrior, 182, and a whole host of other Cessna's that were landing in that last hour. Time in make and model is important.

If it weren't for rich guys there would be fewer WW11 planes flying. The only flying veteran of Pearl Harbor is a Grumman Duck restored by some Rich guy. In 1955 it crashed in the Bahamas. It was recovered from a lake in 1992. This and most of the WW11 iron still flying is BECAUSE Rich Guys like their toys. Hell If I had been the one to win that $500 Million Lotto I sure would have found a F8F Bearcat to do up just like the ones on the USS Leyte my Dad served on in 45. The stories about current restorations often include not much of a plane to start with and several million later a flying example. The Wildcats found in lake Michigan restored by some Rich Guy follow this pattern. The government gets in the way and if they restore one it never flies.

Positive rate of climb, clear of any pressing obstacles, gear up, Vy, Flaps up.

The J rear baffle is flat and goes tightly against the rear of the #3 and #4 cylinders. A small gap created by a spacer helps CHT's. I put mine as shown in the photo

It was nice though to finally to meet up with some of the others from the group (Cris, Anthony and Don).

ISTM, "disregard" is much too strong a word. The A&P usually has considerable latitude when it comes to methods and determination of airworthiness. "Recommended" or "not recommended" is not mandatory. Intentionally. I suppose. Frankly, I would rather have my plane (and my neck) in the hands of a smart, experienced A&P who thinks than a legalist who follows the letter of the law by rote.

A legion of old wives tales to support the no tail stand data. Pure nonsense, and you're absolutely right Bob. Nice stand you made, BTW. Demanding data for why a tail stand is OK to use, while having no real data of why it can't be used, and suggesting a SI is mandatory is irresponsible...at best! One danger about communities like ours is people suggesting dangers where none exist, usually because of inexperience and not doing their homework, or any research before they post.

I know American Flyers has an accelerated ground school. It's 2 1/2 days long and then you can sit for your written as soon as the class was over.

After you add the iron block, prop reduction drive, water cooling, EFI, etc etc etc it burns more gas, weighs more, and is not as reliable as an aircraft engine. Thats the reason most auto conversions are not feasible, or else you would see more of them. Even small aircraft diesels havent lived up to their claims, but this one or that copy Continental TD-300 might.

I consider a positive rate of climb (PRoC) to be the absolute determining factor and a MUST before flap retraction. PRoC should be in your poll Mike. You don't you even mention it?! I retract flaps once I have a PRoC and clear of any obstacles. PRoc, gear up, flaps up.

And In one more day .......... Whooohoooo....

Every airplane with an engine should have a monitor. It is far more useful than just flying LOP, and can aid with troubleshooting or save your bacon in flight.