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You don’t need it on the ground during the daytime. Your previous post said you never turned it off, ever, so I assumed that meant during the day as well. If it’s night and you need it to see, absolutely. But during the day, using some discretion is good airmanship.

I sent 3 Mooneys through ArtCraft! The first one was 2009, still looks beautiful! The other 2 also continue to be beautiful! I highly recommend ArtCraft!

HID’s are still the brightest. But generally are good for 2000 hrs. If you have a dual light system e.g. landing and taxi lights you can swap bulbs to verify it’s the bulb and not ballast. But it should just be a bulb replacement. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mine took 4 weeks, but the fuel tanks had a couple of leaks after the stripping process (inspection plates) so it had to be moved to the AP shop to have the tanks patched. There’s no way it should take longer than a month unless they are mismanaged. I had to wait 2-3 months for an opening.

I also used Artcraft and have nothing but good reports. Mine was done 16 years ago and still looks great. I have a few chips that they have touched up over the years and have always had great service. Highly recommended.

I had an Ovation that would cut out if I taxied with too low of an RPM. The Champions were low hour, but they were junk - 8 or 9 out of the 12 were high resistance. I put Tempest Fine Wire in and it solved that problem evened out mag checks as well.

Added some pictures. This is a Pro-G Hub, GNS430/530 cable and a PS7000 audio cable. Have many more.

i'm calling around now, i'm trying to decide between crider, corona or the guys in miami.

I have a spare GAD43e for anyone who wants to do this.... Aerodon

One needs to check the big vertical pivot bolt also for proper torque, wear and lube. Should be checked at 100 hrs/annual as per SB. SB has updated torque value also (lower than Maint manual)

The Mooney nose gear has numerous wear points that can result in sloppiness. If rigged properly, it will track straight down the runway, but the wear will cause a dead zone in the steering requiring more footwork to taxi straight. This is more a nuisance than an airworthiness issue and usually owners wait until it gets really annoying to fix it. Fixing it involves jacking the plane and moving the nose gear by hand to identify the places where there is slop and then replacing shims, rod ends and bushings as necessary. Don’t expect perfection: I’ve been told by reputable MSC’s that even new airplanes have some slop.

I had mine done this past spring at Sunquest in Everett WA. It took about 8 weeks. They do 40+ planes a year and do caravans for FedEx, Kenmore Air Harbor’s seaplane fleet, historic aircraft for museums and the Nordstrom family’s fleet among others. It wasn’t for CBs, but they took great care with the prep, layout, spraying and especially the touch up afterwards. My advice is to find a quality shop with a backlog of business and get on their schedule. They cannot afford to do a crappy job and screw up their reputation, and they cannot afford to take too much time since it screws up their throughput. Then, be prepared to pay what they want and ignore the posts that talk about how they got their airplane painted for $30K.

@AZOutlaw if the drop is not associated with roughness, then you almost certainly have a timing issue. The question is whether it’s internal or external. If this just started recently, I would guess internal. I would remove the mag with the excessive drop and and have it IRAN’d. Your engine monitor data will show an elevated EGT when running on a single mag no matter what. In your case, bad mag EGT is probably going to show an even more elevated EGT given that what you’ve described reads like the timing is retarded on one mag.

My only tip is that it gets easier every time you do it. The A&Ps advantage is practice — lots of practice.

https://www.savvyaviation.com/the-mag-check/ Read up on some of the Savvy information...you can find several articles online. General gist, your EGTs should be rising on one mag as the fuel air mixture burns slower and so more fuel is left by exhaust stroke. So if you have one cylinder that's dropping off when running on single mag then it's a plug or wire issue. If you have a bank of cylinders dropping off or not acting the same it points more towards the mag. A lean of peak in flight mag check stresses the ignition system more and sometimes help pick up subtle things you might not pick up on the ground. I had a failing mag that initially passed the mag check on the ground, but failed miserably in the in flight mag check. Initially looked like 3 different EGTs not doing what all the others were so I thought maybe plugs as they were getting worn. But when I cleaned and gapped the top right plugs, then it was more obvious that the bottom left plugs were more off...common denominator was the right mag...replaced with a Surefly and haven't looked back! If you get a chance to upload data with the Savvy mag check take a screen shot if you need help. I'm sure there's plenty on the forum that would help steer you in the right direction!

Probably 8 hours on the plugs. 25 minutes on the wires and the clean injectors. 6 hours on the rebuilt mags. Plugs are Champion RHB32E, massive and yes, we checked resistance. I honestly can't remember if he checked them all though.

Nope. Ideally, no drop between left and right if the mag timing is perfectly synchronized. Should always see a drop between both and a single mag.

I have these and they both tell me the same thing.

I have built in O2. But use an O2D2. I have it Velcro'd to the glare shield. I want it in my line of vision to make sure it is delivering O2 pulses.

Airborne mag check and engine data would also help

And small Continentals also. My M20K is boost pump off for take off.

What type of tach do you have….where is it reading from? Some electronic tachs read from each mag vs a common point like a gear. If you have pickup on each mag, perhaps try to swap them to see if problem follows.

Thank you Marc, I have a JPI EDM 800 but I can look at the EGT's closer tomorrow. I thought I would put bottom plugs on top too, and tops to bottom, and see if the problem switched to the R mag.....then it's a bad plug.

How many hours on the plugs? Massive or fine wire? Champions or Tempest? Have you checked resistance on each plug?

Thanks Hank, but I have brand new wiring as of today. I think they're good.