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I've never used it, but I've never been in a position where it's been recommended either.

You just have to get the silanes to bond to the surface. A smooth surface will give better results. A porous oxidized surface will produce poor results.

I also didn’t vote because my use didn’t fit the poll. But I did notice a negative result. There was a period about 10-15 years ago that I used it consistently on a Continental IO-550A every tankful, mixing per the instructions on the can. I noticed a couple things: - It changed the color of the exhaust deposits in the tail pipe. * In variable throttle position shorter flights the deposits were less charcoal black and more a soft dark grey color. These are flights where you are generally running rich producing more carbon deposits. * On long flights where I leaned out, the typical light grey lead color deposits were slightly darker soft grey color. •• So it seems to change how the carbon forms and deposits. - My electric fuel pump would run quieter. - On my wing walk, which is older weathered black, I could start to see discolored spots that were getting darker. There were screw head “halos” appearing. I immediately stopped using it for fear of damage to the fuel tank sealant. BTW - I never was able to direct, measure or notice any change in engine performance or reliability before using, while using or after discontinuing use.

I wonder what the real difference is between inexpensive products available to consumers and the more expensive products only sold to professionals and if the extra cost of professional application is really worth it. If the consumer products are easy to apply in a couple of hours and last a year, that seems pretty reasonable to me unless the paint is in bad shape and needs professional correction first.

Paid $400 for a product that wasn't as promised.

Paul, as a journalist was a rare breed. He is a master story teller. He knows how to make fun as well as having fun. He loves adventure and has many diverse experiences that allow him to be intelligent and interesting. He knows bullshit when he see's it. He alerts you to said B.S. in a fun and often self depricating way so you don't have to step in it. Paul likes to fly slow AND fly fast. He jumps out of perfectly good airplanes. He knows the difference between sarcasm and being acerbic. He gets me. I like to think I get him. I definitely enjoy picking up whatever he is laying down in the aviation world. When he writes a story like the one shared it makes me less optimistic about my remaining days searching in the void.

You missed my point. Those single articles, in this case only 3 columns of print, comprise the sum total contribution of what used to be IFR. And now you tell us that they are just reprints. Historically, reputable publications would attribute it as a reprint with the original date. Just another case of dumbing down.

Hi all, With so many people upgrading to glass, does anyone have a 1968 M20C manifold pressure gauge lying around they’re looking to get rid off? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Were you credited as author? I see articles in some pubs that were written by Mike Busch, but he is not credited. Instead, the byline is "staff".

I didn’t vote since I don’t use it in the Mooney but have used it in a small Continental with good results. A “splash” with each tank of fuel. I’ve heard many positive results and many neutral results, don’t think I ever heard of negative results. I do wonder how it might affect bladder tank or sealant, but again have not actually heard negatives. I’ve also read of folks adding it to oil prior to a change like the poster above. In that case I worry about loosening sludge if you have not used it since new. That said I can also imagine some of the benefits. Seems to have as many variable uses as Jose (Piloto) had for WD-40.

Not in all cases. In the case of IFR, part of what Firecrown is doing is reprinting IFR Mag articles. One of mine from 2017 was republished last year. The IFR articles in Flying the past two months are also republications.

Yes. That’s a reason the GNS and GTN Limitations are different. It was originally, no RNAV for lateral guidance on the FAS. (Still says that in AC90-108). It was later changed to the current, ok if you monitor, in the AIM. I recall discussions around the time if the change like, what if they look different?

The Turtle Wax "Hybrid Ceramic" line is pretty dang good too, and really inexpensive. Worth a try. It doesn't get as much junk embedded into it as the traditional waxes, IME.

I've never heard of using it just before and oil change. Those I know that use it add it with new oil... at least in a Contenental. I guess there can be some reasons not to add it to a Lycolming.

Traditionally, Lycoming did not produce maintenance manuals and instead provided maintenance information in service letters, instructions, and bulletins. Recently, it has begun producing maintenance manuals for some engines. There does not appear to be a maintenance manual for a TIO-540 https://www.lycoming.com/sites/default/files/attachments/SL-L114BJ_Technical_Publications.pdf.pdf

Its as old as the plane for sure and so is your rubber manifold pressure line under the panel. If you have a rubber fuel pressure line under the panel it might need a look see also.

Ya that coincides with when I was out of the country and not online at all BTW try it sometime-go off line for a few days- peace and quiet!

I use it all the time. 1/2 quart into the oil for a 1-hour flight before every oil change.

Never in an airplane, but I have used it successfully in automobiles. A cup of mineral spirits will work just as good.

A couple of years ago, I noticed the compression on one cylinder on my Lycoming IO-360-A3B6 was trending downward on successive measurements from 78 to 74 to 68. I added Marvel Mystery Oil to the fuel for a couple of tanks and the next time I checked the compression, it was 76. Might have been a coincidence. Recently, I had a cylinder drop out immediately after cold engine start. It happened again the next day. Maybe a valve beginning to stick? I added Marvel Mystery Oil to the fuel for one tank full and haven't had the problem since. Again, it might have been a coincidence. A local mechanic swears that it makes a great ring flush. Supposedly a lot of DC-3 operators used it to prevent valve sticking in R-1830s back in the day. The mechanic at a museum where I used to volunteer told me that back when the FAA operated several DC-3s as flight check airplanes a mechanic that serviced them told him that it was used it in these planes for the same reason. Apparently they bought it it 55 gallon drums. What's in the stuff? I've attached the SDS. It's Petroleum distillates, hydrotreated light (solvent), Methyl salicylate (wintergreen fragrance), TCP, and two isomers of Dichlorobenzene. TCP is a known lead scavenger. Some searching shows that dichlorobenzene might soften carbon and varnish deposits. So, theoretically it might be beneficial. I don't know, but I'm curious what others have experienced. MM12R_50094_MM13R_50095_MM13RC_Marvel_Mystery_Oil_SDS_US_031424_FINAL.pdf

I guess I’m the outlier here. I still use Meguiars Gold Class automotive liquid wax. Works amazing and the water continues to bead after 6mo / 5 washes. It’s so cheap, I’ll continue to use it.

Looks awesome! I’m sure it’s discussed earlier, but you weren’t worried about heat from the black top when parked outside? Super good looking choice!

Thanks. I might give this a try. At worst, I will be out of $50 or so and some elbow grease.

For those of you that are waiting for your slot with Paul at Weep No More, it's well worth the wait...Just picked up my aircraft from Paul this morning couple of things to consider if you make the trip and decide to fly back on a commercial airline. Wilmar is about a 2hr drive from Minn/St Paul airport, Paul introduced me to Geri (320) 979-8818 and she took me to the airport and picked me up 2 weeks later, very nice individual and cheaper than Lyft or Uber, IF you can get anyone and there are NO one-way car rentals. She also has rooms for rent that are very reasonable, and if you chose to stay at a hotel, the Super 8 is reasonable and actually really nice rooms, just DON'T take the rooms next to the stairs..made that mistake. I know Paul has a long wait list, but he does have cancellations, he booked me 18 months out but had a last minute cancellation and texted me to see if I could make the short suspense to get there so overall, I waited 6 months. He gave me a quote, stuck to it completed the job when he said it would be done for LESS than the others charge..now I can look at getting it painted. Also, Paul is co-owner of the MSC there on the airfield so if there is other work you need taken care of, just ask him about it.

About 12-18 months for reapplication depending on exposure. Nothing in between. I use waterless cleaner about three times a year, the belly about eight times a year. The first time I used it, I did my own cut and buff. I didn’t really try to get every swirl or imperfection out. I did hit scratches and oxidized areas. This product applies like rain-x. It has a slight haze that you wipe on, and then off a few minutes later when dry, with little effort. Water beads like fresh wax, bugs come off easier and it seems to attract less dust/dirt via static cling. It just seems to stay cleaner and be easier to clean.