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I run lean of peak, but no, unlikely you could run it like that! Mine is very nice at ~30” and 2350rpm and ~10.5gph at 165-180ktas between 10,000’ (165ktas) and 18,000’ (180ktas).

Your thickness is not correct We have silicone foam .250 ams3195 sponge We die cut it I won't use or sell Epdm rubber

I’m showing .160 on the thickness. Two different widths. .580 and .800

My POH, issued September of 1983 has the same table. My J is one of the first to roll of the line for 1984.

This has sent me thinking, I have a 6000 series Slick impulse coupling mag on the Bravo, hot starts were always a problem before I installed a slick start mag booster, I have had a retard breaker mag overhauled by Aircraft Accessories of Oklahoma, not QAA, on the shelf for probably 3 years, just need to rewire the ignition switch for a second P-lead, had an Electroair for about 2 years and uninstalled it for multiple reasons, hot start on the impluse coupling mag even with the slick booster is still not great because the skytech light weight starter spins the hot engine fast enough for the impulse coupling not to engage, will get rid of the impulse coupling now and install retard breaker mag.

If the failure of the mag can be shown, would the insurance cover the engine's IRAN? It may be worth digging into the policy.

Ams3301 Clear silicone cement included

We stock chafe .062 x 1 wide .032 x 1" wide .032 x 1-1/2 wide .062 x 1-1/2 wide with Fiberglass used for Cessna cowl GB-P seal -5/8 Bulb Cessna Caravan Cowl -5/8 LW Bulb md500 cargo door -7/8 bulb Model 95 baffle seal 1-1/2 tail length

Let me get the exact dimensions. thanks! -Matt

We can extrude to sample, there is a min production run . Just finished both extrusions for T34 canopy.

Pawl rivets was the progenitor of a crash of an Aero Commander at South Lake Tahoe. It left the owner of Rosedin Electric a well known Bay Area electrical contractor and philanthropist a paraplegic. It resulted at the time (1967) the largest aviation tort liability in award in history (11 million). Small thing, results in big disaster. Good job recognizing that something was not right.

SureFly is also about as explicit as it can be about installing the unit itself at TDC#1.

Yeah, the ASI thing has always been interesting to me. The SL actually says nothing about remarking - it’s explicit that you have to buy the kit that includes a new ASI. But anecdotally it seems everyone has the ASI remarked. My panel is a G3X, so it’s a few quick turns of a configuration knob, and reverting the change would be a few more turns. SL92-1_SN24_1686-2999.pdf

The best plan is to get some scrap aluminum and practice with a few holes before trying to do it on your real part.

The helicoil should never get harder to turn. If it does the hole wasn’t taped properly. If it stops going in, your best bet is to remove the insertion tool, grab any part of the insert sticking out of the hole with needle nose pliers and try to unscrew the insert. Then go back and tap the hole deeper. The insertion tools are weak on purpose. If you force the insert into the hole, you will never get the insert out and the hole is ruined.

No, most would not run that turbocharged engine wide open throttle in cruise. Most people seem to cruise at 2300-2500 RPM. Flightaware is showing you ground speed, not true airspeed. The plane may have had bad luck with headwinds. Or the owner is running low power settings for some reason. In most real world conditions it will get 150-170 KTAS, varying with altitude and your choice of power settings.

I applied masking tape to the outside of the door to protect the paint, mixed up the glue that Guy sent, brushed it liberally on the door seal surface, put the seal in place using a few clamps, added some more blue masking tape over the seal to hold it, let it tack up, wiped away any excess glue, removed the clamps, and closed the door. Crawled inside and verified it looked good from that angle. You can see the seal from the inside on the lower part of the door. Came back the next day and removed all the tape. Seems to have worked OK. The seal hasn't moved. The glue is invisible once dried, I like how it looks a lot better than the old yellow stuff I had to strip off before this job. I am not a professional and would recommend you follow Guy's instructions, which is what I'll do if I ever do it again. The same silicone glue Guy sends with the seal is available on Aircraft Spruce in case you need more. Comes with one of his cards in the package. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/siliconecatalyst05-13310.php

I have not seen an official interpretation. It was an issue faced by an Ercoupe owner I knew under the pre-MOSAIC weight limitation rules. The pilot was told it was OK, but it was informal from some rep, so whether it represents official policy or not is something I don’t know.

Okay, my G1000 tach definitely shows the correct redline so that makes the E.I. redundant, which I suspected anyway. I may just remove it as well. Thanks!

Byron, I think a MFD GI-275 with battery and AHARS is one of the most capable instruments out there. A little bit of scope creep, but I am contemplating something similar with an SL30 for #2 and a G500 as the main display. My current thinking is to do a serial or resolver output from the SL30 to the GI-275, and then hope that the HSDB to the G500 will transfer #2 Nav to the G500. And then 'first prize' would be that the #2 OBS could be adjusted on either the G500 or the GI-275? Your setup is somewhat similar, can you adjust the #2 OBS from the Aspen? Aerodon

Okay, this is a good finding that is in favor of your argument. This I wonder if it is really a point in favor of your argument. Here's my thinking: If you retract flaps first to T/O flaps, you do so by the definition when you are the slowest in your approach, this causes the pitching moment to be least severe. Then you retract gear which introduces a nose down pitching moment and therefore helps with managing the nose up pitching moment buying you time to retrim. Then you retract the rest of the flaps and retrim easily. If you retract gear first, you will get a nose down pitching moment and you will accelerate. The consequences of this will be that you might not retrim as aggressively feeling a false sense of security in your pitch trim and when you do retract flaps, especially if you do it in one go, the pitching moment will be larger and more severe due to now accelerated speed. Both combined, so the still nose up trim and larger pitching moment could surprise you and will present you with more difficulty keeping the plane under control. Is my argument flawed? In addition, if you keep the gear down, you still have the option to touch down without damage in case you are just above the runway. Also if you retract flaps to flaps T/O you are in exactly the T/O configuration i.e. how you takeoff.

In Ovation, I don't think they do much under say 80kts? * They don't make flare or landing shorter, so they should not be deployed. * They don't make takeoff longer, so does not matter if they are open or closed. They only affect L/D near VNE and don't seem to affect L/D near VS. Then looking at their size, they doesn't seem to change stall speed, I would say Gear & SpeedBreak at the same time on go-around. Ovation airbreaks have zero effect on "induced drag" at slow speeds near VS, they only matter for "parasite drag" on high speeds near VNE (and to keep engine CHT warmer while on fast & steep descent )

Okay, so you are now in your stabalized climb..... Gear or Flaps first????

I have the same (with takeoff marker but with continuous positions anywhere in the middle)

I tried the Helicoil. The kit I bought had a slotted insertion tool that exhibited a strength similar to plastic. Somehow as the Helicoil started to get harder to turn- the tool end stripped. It's toast. A search for another insertion tool turned up $150 pre-winding units that I"m sure would work.