Breaker switches kicking off

[FloridaMan]

Well, looks like my breaker switches on my F are kicking off on me. The landing light switch likes to die on the ground and last night the nav light switch went with it -- I'm going to guess that it's heat from the LL switch aiding the nav switch. Before I go and buy another switch at $165, is there anything I should look into? Also, I should note that I'm in Florida and it doesn't act like a short, but more like something getting too hot. If there's adequate air circulation, such as in flight, it doesn't seem to happen. I'm planning on upgrading to an HID LL, so I'd rather just put the money towards the new light than replace the switch if it's not necessary. 

[N601RX]

Quote: Antares

Well, looks like my breaker switches on my F are kicking off on me. The landing light switch likes to die on the ground and last night the nav light switch went with it -- I'm going to guess that it's heat from the LL switch aiding the nav switch. Before I go and buy another switch at $165, is there anything I should look into? Also, I should note that I'm in Florida and it doesn't act like a short, but more like something getting too hot. If there's adequate air circulation, such as in flight, it doesn't seem to happen. I'm planning on upgrading to an HID LL, so I'd rather just put the money towards the new light than replace the switch if it's not necessary. 

[N601RX]

dp

[N9660M]

Might also check the bulbs.  I had a similar problem with my nav lights.  Turned out that the wrong bulb had been installed in the white light on the tail.  Once replaced with the correct bulb, the breaker stopped tripping.

My landing light switch also used to trip after operating for a few minutes on the ground, from the heat I'm sure.  Replacing with an LED bulb solved that issue.

Jim

[Immelman]

I had this issue and confirmed that it was in fact the innards of the breaker switch going out. Good solid connections, and the switch itself would heat up over time until it would trip, just not want to turn back on if you power-cycled the circuit while the switch was still warm.

In my case, I had the breaker switch from my INOP belly beacon, long since disconnected (I have strobes) which I was able to rob for the one that was giving me problems.

This seems like a question for your IA, though: Need the replacement be the same exact part, or just a suitable replacement breaker switch with the same current-rating? These aren't so expensive from spruce, maybe 20-30 bux?