Oldguy Posted January 16 Report Posted January 16 Friend just had his F worked on, and it came back from the avionics shop without the ability to drop the electric gear. Emergency extension worked as it was supposed to work, and now it appears the switch to drop the gear is dying (works intermittently). Does anyone have the part number for the switch? The parts manual I have for the F model looks like a copy of a copy of a copy, and some of the characters cannot be read. Any help would be much appreciated. John Quote
Vance Harral Posted January 16 Report Posted January 16 Screen captures of relevant details for M20F s/n 22-1306 and on are pasted below, from a high-res schematic Mooney sent us a long time ago, and the service manual. Part numbers are OEM original from the 1970s. My guess is that some/all of them have been superseded, but you can look up equivalents online. Not sure what you mean by the "switch to drop the gear", as there are a number of switches in the system: the pilot control switch in the cockpit that selects gear up/down, the relays that power the landing gear actuator motor, and the limit switches that cut power to the motor when the gear reaches its final up/down position. 1 Quote
Oldguy Posted January 16 Author Report Posted January 16 1 hour ago, Vance Harral said: Screen captures of relevant details for M20F s/n 22-1306 and on are pasted below, from a high-res schematic Mooney sent us a long time ago, and the service manual. Part numbers are OEM original from the 1970s. My guess is that some/all of them have been superseded, but you can look up equivalents online. Not sure what you mean by the "switch to drop the gear", as there are a number of switches in the system: the pilot control switch in the cockpit that selects gear up/down, the relays that power the landing gear actuator motor, and the limit switches that cut power to the motor when the gear reaches its final up/down position. Thank you! Exactly what I was looking to find! I am working off of a phone call from the owner who got a phone call from the avionics guy who spoke with the A/P, so the fact you were able to decipher the request is very much appreciated. Since it is a late year F, they are probably looking for the RBM 70-311221 which probably needs the -5 suffix for 6 lugs. Thanks again. John Quote
M20E for me Posted January 17 Report Posted January 17 If it is the same as the E it is a milspec switch you can buy from DigiKey for under $70.00. You unscrew the tip and screw on the plastic wheel. If you need the MS part number I can look it for you. Quote
Oldguy Posted January 17 Author Report Posted January 17 10 hours ago, M20E for me said: If it is the same as the E it is a milspec switch you can buy from DigiKey for under $70.00. You unscrew the tip and screw on the plastic wheel. If you need the MS part number I can look it for you. Please. Quote
A64Pilot Posted January 19 Report Posted January 19 (edited) If it looks like this the below switch is it, MS number is in the Amazon pic. The tip is attached with red Loctite so it’s not going to just screw off, it’s going to take heat that I was afraid might damage the switch, of force. I used force holding the lever with one set of vise grips and another on the tip. Be careful with the plastic wheel as I think it’s made from Unobtanium. On my J only one pole of the switch is used, I did not try but am pretty sure you could switch the wires to the other side to get home or other temp repair. If that doesn’t fix it it might be the solenoids, if you’re lucky they are silver and round if so they are golf cart solenoids easily found by part number, limit switches could also be it. I first replaced solenoids, but it ended up being the switch on mine. Edited January 19 by A64Pilot Quote
M20E for me Posted January 19 Report Posted January 19 That’s it and cheaper than DigiKey or Mouser! The Honeywell PN is 1TL1-3G. Quote
M20E for me Posted January 19 Report Posted January 19 Oh yeah, The tip is screwed on really tight, careful not to snap off the lever at the base. Quote
A64Pilot Posted January 19 Report Posted January 19 1 hour ago, M20E for me said: Oh yeah, The tip is screwed on really tight, careful not to snap off the lever at the base. Back to have one vise grip as a back up wrench type of thing, if you hold the lever with one and unscrew with the other, then the shaft of the lever takes all of the torque. I agree with what I assume your point is, that the base of the lever is weaker than up higher. The amount of heat required to loosen the Loctite probably would have been fine too Quote
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