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Engine overhaul


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I took some pieces of the left panel to match paint after cutting for the jpi.  Orielly’s mixed a custom enamel to match and put it in an aerosol can.  They are supposed to charge $32, but the guy insisted it was free after I bragged on him a little bit.    I’m going to let the panel dry a few more days before applying placards.  I upload a photo then.  

I purchased Avery 6521 for my laser jet to make placards.  They came out very nice.  $8 I’m also printing tow limits and don’t step on flap and other placards I’ve needed for a while.  

After I get the panel wrapped up, my next project is working on the baffles.  I ordered all new reinforced baffle material, rivets, and some 4130 round bar to replace a missing threaded rod on the underside of #1&3.   I 3D printed a tool to hold a wine bottle cork that I glue some scotchbrite pad to do circular brushing.   Do you guys think this kind of finish would make my baffles look nice or is it too much?

 

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2 hours ago, Browncbr1 said:

I took some pieces of the left panel to match paint after cutting for the jpi.  Orielly’s mixed a custom enamel to match and put it in an aerosol can.  They are supposed to charge $32, but the guy insisted it was free after I bragged on him a little bit.    I’m going to let the panel dry a few more days before applying placards.  I upload a photo then.  

I purchased Avery 6521 for my laser jet to make placards.  They came out very nice.  $8 I’m also printing tow limits and don’t step on flap and other placards I’ve needed for a while.  

After I get the panel wrapped up, my next project is working on the baffles.  I ordered all new reinforced baffle material, rivets, and some 4130 round bar to replace a missing threaded rod on the underside of #1&3.   I 3D printed a tool to hold a wine bottle cork that I glue some scotchbrite pad to do circular brushing.   Do you guys think this kind of finish would make my baffles look nice or is it too much?

 

20ED4428-6528-4DF0-AB1B-640C5582D433.jpeg

If 100% of the sheet metal had this finish, perhaps a bit much.  But as an accent for certain pieces, I think it's sweet.  But that's just me...

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  • Browncbr1 changed the title to Engine overhaul

Today, I got the right panel put in and few other things.  I was short a few screws and had to make unexpected adjustments behind the panel, but I’m glad to be done with it now. 
iPad now clips in nicely and can slide right if need to check the strikefinder.  

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  • 3 weeks later...

Lots of waiting on the engine….  Happy to report I finished the pilot yoke.  Some of you guys may remember the copilot yoke I wrapped last year.   I sandblast, clean, zinc, and prime before leather goes on.  The mooney motif is Cnc laser etching.  That’s a 3D printed iPhone holder that bolts in place of the clock.  

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Earlier in this thread, I mentioned that I took my exhaust to a shop to get pressure checked and cleaned up.  Well, he pressure checked it and then went on to other projects, so not much was accomplished….  So, I used my glass blasting cabinet and scotchbrite balls on my drill press to get them looking better.   I’m pretty much done with all the side projects now, just waiting on the engine at this point.  I posted before and after..  Im spending a little more time on the tail pipe, since that’s the bling that is seen from the exterior.  :)  I did this also to the heater shroud and muffler.  I am told that they will rainbow blue after I run them.

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33 minutes ago, Browncbr1 said:

Earlier in this thread, I mentioned that I took my exhaust to a shop to get pressure checked and cleaned up.  Well, he pressure checked it and then went on to other projects, so not much was accomplished….  So, I used my glass blasting cabinet and scotchbrite balls on my drill press to get them looking better.   I’m pretty much done with all the side projects now, just waiting on the engine at this point.  I posted before and after..  Im spending a little more time on the tail pipe, since that’s the bling that is seen from the exterior.  :)  I did this also to the heater shroud and muffler.  I am told that they will rainbow blue after I run them.

3467F22F-92BD-46FC-BB3D-2FCC1F0A614E.jpeg

CAD496A2-5D53-4D79-8A9B-C86FBBE3ACFF.jpeg

F374BDAD-E82B-4B32-9075-E39B386563B8.jpeg

Another thread was talking how to make a plane go faster, well yours is going to go at least 10 KTS faster with that exhaust. People here at the airport are always giving me grief for cleaning, painting and polishing everything. You are making me look like a poser. 

It looks great!

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1 hour ago, N201MKTurbo said:

Another thread was talking how to make a plane go faster, well yours is going to go at least 10 KTS faster with that exhaust. People here at the airport are always giving me grief for cleaning, painting and polishing everything. You are making me look like a poser. 

It looks great!

Thanks man,,..  I just can’t go along with putting an ugly exhaust on a fresh engine.  Hopefully it will actually result in a nice rainbow bluing.  

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  • 1 month later...

Week 13 that CSI has had my cases and still not done.  Hopefully not much longer.

Meanwhile, I got a call from the hose shop asking if I want to replicate the molded teflon hoses, or if I want to standard orange fire sleeve style.  After a bit of conversation, it seems there is no real difference apart from asthetics and price.  It seems that the inside core is the same braided metal hose.  But, the molded teflon is about $240 more than orange fire sleeve.   

What do you guys think?  The molded brown hose or the orange hose for less cost?  

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They dip the ends of the fire sleeve in silicone before banding at the ends.

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13 minutes ago, Hank said:

I replaced my oil lines a couple years ago, went with firesleeves on everything. I feel safer now . . . .

After more discussion with the engine shop, he said he's putting the orange fire sleeve hoses on everything because the insides are all the same teflon tubing with stainless steel braiding.  The only difference is molded teflon fire sleeve or braided orange fire sleeve.  So, I figured to go with what he said everyone else does and save a little coin.  I'll put my old lines on the shelf.   Thanks for the input Hank!

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On 2/8/2022 at 10:25 AM, Browncbr1 said:

After more discussion with the engine shop, he said he's putting the orange fire sleeve hoses on everything because the insides are all the same teflon tubing with stainless steel braiding.  The only difference is molded teflon fire sleeve or braided orange fire sleeve.  So, I figured to go with what he said everyone else does and save a little coin.  I'll put my old lines on the shelf.   Thanks for the input Hank!

I like the look of molded teflon hose but for my engine replacement, I went with standard fire sleeve hose with teflon tubing as per my IA recommendation. Mine were done by Herber in LA.

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Well, today I got some good news and some bad news.   Good news, the case is done.  No cracks or anything.   It is back in the shop’s hands now.    Still waiting on crank and other steel parts.    
 

bad news, he said one of my cylinders was rejected due to a crack in the barrel.  I was a little surprised because I understood the cylinder work had already been performed.   I’ve never heard of a cracked barrel before.  I wonder how a steel barrel cracks.   I asked which cylinder, but haven’t heard back yet.  

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2 hours ago, GEE-BEE AEROPRODUCTS said:

the other Guys hose shop have never installed

Ain't that the truth. I had bought set of hoses from a supposedly well respected hose manufacture, I  bought  during my engine overhaul several years go thinking that it should fit. since they sell them as kit for my model and year Mooney and supposedly had gotten the sizes from Mooney . But when it came to installation  one of the hoses wouldn't fit. So I called them for a refund I told them they reuse the fittings on someone else hoses but I got stuck with only half what I should have been refunded.  I the past I would send my hoses to Sacramento Sky Ranch  John and the crew always did me right. Not sure if they are still around. I know His  books are still in print. Very well written in my opinion.

 

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The 124J hoses also have a tighter bend radius, and also, a firesleeve hose, how do you inspect that? The hoses are underneath of the firesleeve whereas the 124J Integral sleeve hose, the jacket is part of the hose. Also, spaceX uses 124j on spacecraft…. I figure it’s a good enough for spacecraft a good enough for my plane

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On 11/5/2021 at 11:49 AM, Browncbr1 said:

I'm about to order some parts and came to the option to decide between Lord or Barry engine mounts.    Which is better?  $790 vs $535, but i just want the best long lasting one.. 

 

A clients twin Comanche had this annoying shudder and resonant vibration.   Related to rpm.  100 hours on engines and props. New Barry mounts. Balanced props. New lord mounts solved it. 

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17 hours ago, jetdriven said:

A clients twin Comanche had this annoying shudder and resonant vibration.   Related to rpm.  100 hours on engines and props. New Barry mounts. Balanced props. New lord mounts solved it. 

I’ve heard it go both ways.  I’ve also heard of gel packs in the Lords rupturing after 6 months.  We’ll see how it all works out soon, as the engine is starting to come together.  Hurray!

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On 2/27/2022 at 2:55 PM, Browncbr1 said:

I’ve heard it go both ways.  I’ve also heard of gel packs in the Lords rupturing after 6 months.  We’ll see how it all works out soon, as the engine is starting to come together.  Hurray!

The M20J Lord mounts have gel packs, but the twin Comanche ones do not. But it still fixed the shudder. 
It was the worst I ever saw, as the engines  come into phase the plane would  shake at some kind of amplified magnitude you think the tail is going to come off it was almost dangerous. 

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10 hours ago, jetdriven said:

The M20J Lord mounts have gel packs, but the twin Comanche ones do not. But it still fixed the shudder. 
It was the worst I ever saw, as the engines  come into phase the plane would  shake at some kind of amplified magnitude you think the tail is going to come off it was almost dangerous. 

that sounds horrible.  did it do it just with both engines running coming into phase?   was there any shaking when the engines were run independently?  maybe it was some weird harmonic?

I've heard that the gel packs mainly just help with the torque wobble during shut down.... 

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