My squawks

[ryoder]

It seems I have some avionics squawks again.

SL30 comm is coming in badly.  Muffled and garbled.  Com two is fine.

GI106 is not moving the needle.  The SL30 knows the radial I am on and displays it but the indicator is locked in the center.  If I turn the obs the flag flips to to from.  So I know it knows what's happening.

i am having a local mobile avionics shop look at it tomorrow while I toil at work.  Will report what they find.  

[Marauder]

It seems I have some avionics squawks again.

SL30 comm is coming in badly.  Muffled and garbled.  Com two is fine.

GI106 is not moving the needle.  The SL30 knows the radial I am on and displays it but the indicator is locked in the center.  If I turn the obs the flag flips to to from.  So I know it knows what's happening.

i am having a local mobile avionics shop look at it tomorrow while I toil at work.  Will report what they find.  

Ah, brings back memories from most of the 90s. It seemed like back then I had at least two avionics shops on my Rolodex.

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[Andy95W]

Sounds like a simple re-rack and contact cleaner.

Please keep us posted, Ryan, and good luck.

[1964-M20E]

The first thing I'd do is as above remove the radio and inspect the contacts on the edge card connectors look for corrosion if present clean both the radio and the rack and try again.

 

Simple can be don by you and can help eliminate some trouble shooting by the avionics ship.  Also make sure the radio is properly and firmly seated in the rack.

 

 

[ryoder]

They didn't come out yet.  Will go there tomorrow or Monday.  If Monday I'll pull it out myself and clean it.  How do I clean the contacts?

[Andy95W]

First, try loosening the radio in the tray and gently slide it on and off the contacts a few times. Often, that is all that is needed to scrape the oxidation off the contacts.

If that isn't enough, you'll need to buy some good contact cleaner.  I prefer the LPS No-Flash type, but don't get the cheapest thing out there.  Remove the radio and spray the contacts at the back of the radio and at the back of the mounting tray (power off, of course).  To do more, I get a Starbucks stirring stick and rubber band a piece of paper towel to it.  Spray some contact cleaner on the paper towel and run it over the contacts.  The paper towel is slightly abrasive and the contact cleaner will remove almost everything except corrosion.  The stirring stick is wood and a good addition to any toolbox.

[ryoder]

I think I am just an idiot. I just pulled the SL30 and the connections look perfect. I reinstalled it and went to test. I realized that I had the volume knob pullled out so what I have been adjusting is the squelch not the volume. This would account for the terrible background noise and loss of side tone. The audio from asos is crystal clear and I can't really test the vor because its fogged in.

On to the wax job.

[Marauder]

I think I am just an idiot. I just pulled the SL30 and the connections look perfect. I reinstalled it and went to test. I realized that I had the volume knob pullled out so what I have been adjusting is the squelch not the volume. This would account for the terrible background noise and loss of side tone. The audio from asos is crystal clear and I can't really test the vor because its fogged in.

On to the wax job.

LOL! Look at the bright side. You saved yourself some money!

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[1964-M20E]

glad you found it. 

 

I'm 100% for doing everything I can to locate the problem or solve it before I bring it to the mechanic.  Especially if it falls in the area where I can legally fix it.  It is better being able go to the MX and say fix this as opposed to I have a problem and don't know what it is so find and fix it.

Same for your car too but depending on the MX sometimes you get push back like you do not know what you are doing.

 

 

 

 

 

[ryoder]

I didn't get a chance to test the vor yet.  It was cloudy and I began polishing the wings and that turned into a project.   I'll check it out this weekend.