nels

Impressive. And just think, you did it with not much more money invested than you could have invested in a Cessna 150!

I leave my keys in the luggage door while I preflight the plane. Last thing I do is shut that door, lock it and get in.

I'm sure you are aware of it but those dollies better have large diameter tires. Conventional car dollies have small wheels and they really don't work at all on gravel.

If that scale is correct you should have no problem at all!

Why don't you down scale the plane on a piece of card board and see if it will somehow go through the two per scale posts.

If the plane won't go through the gate for what ever reason, maybe you'd be better off indexing down one fence post from the gate, take down that post and remove it then roll back the fencing and move the plane through the opening? It would be cheaper than removing/reinstalling a hinged post as they need a better foundation and are heavier than the regular post. Just a thought.

From the photos it appears your leaks are all from the inspection covers. Why wouldn't you just remove these and reseal the joints?

Your comments are funny and also bring back a certain memory. Back in my younger days I purchased a used Lotus Esprit in San Francisco. I had it delivered to my home in Cincinnati and then proceeded to drive that very conspicuous car like it was meant to be driven. After a month or so I decided to give the interior a very thorough cleaning. In doing so I uncovered the proverbial bag of weed left behind by the prior owner. He had stashed it between the seat and the console. I sure would have had a problem explaining that during a traffic stop.

I'm not an aircraft mechanic but what I see is the terminal eyelet broke not the wire. The eyelet it made of copper with a lead coating. Copper fatigue cracks and breaks from vibration quickly. The threaded post isticks out too far from the top of the nut not allowing the silicone rubber shield/ vibration dampener to fully engage around the nut which would have stopped the vibration and hence stopped the failure. What I think is missing is another nut. The wire should be between the two nuts. The additional nut would essentially shorten the threaded exposed stud and would allow the dust silicone cover to engage securely on the top nut which would stop the vibration. Pretty picky I know, but I think I'm right.

When I did my return from Denver Front Range airport to I69 near Cincinnati a few weeks ago I could have easily done the trip back non stop but opted to refuel near Mexico, Missouri just to pick up cheap fuel. The desent and time killed on the ground was well over two hours. Total flight time was a little over six hours but if I would have gone straight through I'm sure it would have been more like 5.5 hrs. The refuel airport wasn't too far off my course but still had to deviate somewhat to get there and then had to descend and climb back out.

Are you sure the timing was set correctly after the mag was installed? Timing does have an affect on cylinder temperature.

I thought the exact same thing!

For you folks down in Florida that heavy coat probably goes on when the temperature drops to 60 degrees. I envy you!

Good, common sense suggestion!

Pretty $&@:,. stupid, isn't !!!,!

Did you use full flaps on both landings? The plane looked awful level in the landing portion of the video.

I don't have a vacuum gauge on the panel so I really don't know what the vacuum is. I did hook up several vacuum gauges awhile back to check vacuum but each one gave me a different reading. I'm not sure I would trust any vacuum gauge to be accurate at low vacuum numbers. What would a professional use... maybe some sort of monometer?

Several times lately I've pulled the mixture to full lean during shut down and the engine continues to run. I assume something is on the edge of adjustment. Any input? 1978 J.

To rephrase part of my question....does too much vacuum ruin or wear out a DG quicker? Are they real finicky as to exactly the required vacuum number?

Now that I think about it, Camguard comes in a plastic bottle that is less than a quart. Maybe it's 1.6 oz times 8 quart system = 12.8 oz. ?

That's what I thought also.

In case I need it, what's the cost of an overhaul and where do I go?

Auto darkening hood at Harbor Freight is about $50. Best investment you'll make.

Don, don't know about aluminum. I will say I've never heard of anyone doing it but that's probably because anyone doing aluminum welding does a lot of welding and has a professional setup.

Don, the bottle is the tank required for regular wire welding; It is the argon/co2 shielding gas that keeps the weld from oxidizing. The flux wire has a flux core which when heated while welding emits its own shielding gas like the flux on your sticks with your arc welder. Since you probably just want to play around and experiment the flux welders are cheap and usually 110 volt and will get you through the amateur projects. As mentioned, heliarc is nice but it's slow and you will probably never get proficient at it unless you use it a lot. Try the cheap mig first as it's very portable and cheap to begin with. Just my opinion of course.