larryb

I actually didn't do it for drag. My belly pan has two pre-drilled mounting pads for flat blade transponder/dme antennas, Left and Right. The Right mount is where the transponder antenna was mounted and is also right behind the exhaust. The antenna took a lot of heat and was warped and cracked. I had that antenna replaced and moved to the Left position, away from the exhaust. Due to the exhaust, I view the Right location as un-usable. When it became time to install an antenna for my GDL52-R, I went for a rod antenna behind the belly pan in the marker beacon location. And it works great there. It's also one less cable requiring attaching when the belly panel is removed.

I don’t recall, probably Concorde. It happened soon after I bought the plane and it was the battery that came with it. I didn’t check the logs to see how old it was. I put in a Concorde and removed the cabin light fuse.

I jumped my dead dead Mooney battery (cabin lights) and after removal of plug, with engine running, the battery did charge. However the battery was still dead, would not hold a charge, and needed replacement. This was on my J model with single battery and alternator.

I removed the marker beacon antenna and installed the 2nd ADSB in antenna in its place. It works very well.

Are you sure it’s not the stall horn?

I lube mine every year and only run them when needed. Seems like a lot of extra wear to run them every pre-flight. I use them regularly enough in flight.

There is only one flap motor. I had the same symptoms, popping the CB when trying to lower flaps. For me the problem was the relays. There are two relays on the flap control circuit board located above the belly panel. There are also some limit switches that control the circuit. There are several versions depending on year. A person skilled in electronics could replace the relays as a component level repair. The boards from Mooney are very expensive if they are even available. There are a number of threads on MS discussing this issue.

I have a propane turbo/bullet heater. It is noisy and has some smell. It works OK but not great in an un-insulated hangar. I run it with 2 20lb tanks in parallel. I’m thinking of replacing it with a catalytic cabinet style.

Yes but in a jet you generally have a 2nd pilot.

Another perfect airplane project for a 3D printer.

To me it seems like the wrong airplane for the mission. A Cessna 182 would be more appropriate. There is risk to the passenger as well as the airplane.

For the most part I have had no trouble with rental cars delivered to the FBO. I make the Hertz reservation on-line. Then the day before the rental I call the Hertz outlet directly and confirm that the car will be delivered to the FBO. I also e-mail the FBO with my arrival time and Hertz reservation and ask them to be on the lookout for the car. Regarding the cost, if you work for a corporation and have access to their corporate rates, it makes a huge difference. $99/day offered to the general public suddenly becomes $35/day on the corporate CDP.

I hadn’t thought about it but I agree ident requests are less frequent.

I had mine removed. It would be impossible to keep both in sync leading to confused logbooks depending on which hour gauge was used for logging.

I am skeptical that a fresh calibration will make my 2 year old unit function like new. The pic I showed of 17ppm vs. 0 is just a moment in time. Sometimes they both read 0. It seems like the old one is unstable compared to the new one. I have both in the plane now and will see how they compare long-term.

I can hear the sensorcon in flight with Bose headsets. But it’s faint and takes me a min to identify the source of the beep.

Recently I’ve seen a couple spurious in flight readings around 40. They would gradually go down after a few minutes. My unit was 2 years old. Then the battery died and the unit displayed EOL. Since a calibration kit is more expensive than a new unit I just bought a new unit. The black one is old with a new battery and the blue one is new. Note that the readings are different while In my house with no CO sources present. I no longer trust the old one. No more spurious readings in the plane with the new one.

My Encore really does not like to climb until I get to 90kt. So between liftoff and 90 I'll be climbing very slowly while accelerating to 90. It also takes me close to 3000 feet for takeoff and acceleration. My previous J model, significantly lighter, had a better initial climb. Looking at your TIT should tell you if your FF is adequate on takeoff. I use 1375 as a target.

New blade.

Regarding the tightening torque. For my factory filters I tighten by hand as tight as possible. Then use a wrench to tighten 3/4 turn past that. 1/4 tighten sounds way too loose to me.

The packaging is a PPG Aerospace Injection Style Semkit. Here is the video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=opWni97muNw

Mine was removed a few years ago.

I bought the smallest quantity in stock at the time. I didn’t realize the working time when I bought it…

The time has come when my TKS stall strips need re-attachment. Fortunately caught in pre-flight after reading all the stories here on MS. I have ordered the Chemseal CS3204 and it comes in an integrated mixing tube. The packaging is designed to mix all of the product at one time. It didn't come with any instructions, but I found some youtube videos on how to work the packaging. The thing is, the packaged product is about 100X what I need for the job. The working time also isn't great, at 30 min, so if we do all 4 of the strips we may run out of working time. So the question is, has anybody dis-assembled the packaging and mixed in smaller quantities? If so, any tips? https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/chemseal09-04612.php Thanks, Larry

I had a cooling fan factory installed to cool the original king silver crown package. After my avionics upgrade I found the fan was still there and all of the tubes stuffed into the center console doing nothing. All of the new radios have their own fans and none have ports to attach the scat tube. So I had the fan removed. I still have it if anybody wants a 28v 1997 factory cooling fan.